Heater Paint

Discussion in 'Classic Parts of America Talk' started by afu, Jan 19, 2003.

  1. afu

    afu Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2002
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Russell USA
    I was in your store on Wednesday, 1-16-03, and bought several items including a quart of heater paint. I inquired as to what kind of paint it was and what type of reducer I should use.

    After several minutes of checking, no one there could tell me what kind of paint it was. I bought the paint anyway. The paint had to be reduced as it was very thick. I tried it with acrylic enamel reducer, didn't work, terrible fisheyes. Tried it with laquer thinner, didn't work any better.

    So unless someone can tell me what kind of reducer to use, I guess I wasted $27.95.

    I think to improve customer service, you should determine what type of paint this is and what kind of reducer is recommended.

    Thanks,

    Arlyn
     
  2. Robert

    Robert Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    93
    Location:
    Kansas City, MO USA
    The heater paint is supposed to have a "hammered" finish. It has a cloud or crater-like appearance on painted surfaces, I belive you were achieving that when you compaired it to fisheyes. GM used the hammerd paint during the early and mid-40's on the interior of their trucks. Later, during the 40's and mid-50's (no longer used on the cabs), it was used on the factory under dash heaters.

    1. If thinner is used, it must be a quick drying type. Slow drying thinner will give more time for the wet paint to flow out and erase the hammered appearance. The most successful thinner is Toluene. A fair second choice is Xylene.

    2. Increase the air pressure to the spray gun to at least 50 pounds. Some find more success at up to 90 pounds. Usually the appearance of the hammer finish will change with the air pressure. Test it on a flat surface until you achieve the desired results.

    3. Cover the primed metal surface with one good pass of the spray gun. Do not go over with several layers!

    4. Paint close to the surface. About 12 inches is often successful.

    5. Atomize the spray. Let the sprag gun emit as much air in comparison to the paint.

    6. As much as possible, spray on a flat surface.

    7. Surface must be at least 75 degrees for paint to have the hammer finish.

    Remember: This is not regular automotive paint and should not be sprayed in that manner.
     
  3. afu

    afu Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2002
    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Russell USA
    Trust me, I know the difference between hammered finish paint and fisheyes. But to your credit, I did not use the reducers you mentioned since no one at the store knew what kind of paint it was.

    I will try it again with the recommendations you made. Could have saved me a lot of hassle if your store personnel were more knowledgable.

    Thanks,

    Arlyn
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    93
    Location:
    Kansas City, MO USA
    Sorry for the confusion.
     

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