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Help!!!!

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64Chevy408

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okay i just replaced all wheel cylinders on my 64 SWB it has been converter to power brakes with a booster and master cylinder from a 75 chevy truck. i replaced the master cylinder bench bleed it. and i have fluid to the rear wheels but not to the front right. i can not get it to bleed what so ever. i think the master cylinder is getting air lock up front by sucking air in from the lines when i start pumping. any suggestions on what to do?
 
I have done every wheel in order atleast 15 times today. and am still getting air in the lines. i think i finally got the rear lines bleed completely. but the front still are not bleeding and the pedal seems to have no pressure
 
Is the fluid making it to the calipers? Are there any leaks in the lines going from the MC to the front wheels?
 
it makes it to the driver side but not passenger. i think it is due to a air lock. any ideas how to battle this? no leaks
 
purchase and use this bleeding system, there is NONE better. if you have "air lock" (which ive never heard of) it holds pressure to the complete brake system while you go around, check for leaks and bleed the system. Ive been a mechanic for several years and ive used this brake bleeding system for the last few years. I can do a complete brake flush (out with the old, in with the new) in a very short time. So try it, if it doesnt fix your problem the you probably have a clogged line. If the proportioning valve was the issue you wouldnt get fluid to both the front calipers. If you put used parts on your truck, you need to completly clean everything and rebuild with new orings and seals. but my guess is a clogged line, are they new?

This kit comes with several styles of adaptors to fit many differnt master cylinders, just hook it up , fill the jug with fluid, pump to about 30psi and go to work.
 

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Brakes

Try ccanging the flex hose they collapse internaly:D
 
everything is new. all clean bends no kinks. no clogged lines checked for that. still dont have pedal. i have tryed gravity bleeding and everything and still have nothing. im thinking that the pin inbetween the booster and master cylinder is the wrong one. does anyone have a measurement on theirs? so i can check mine or cut a new one. thanks for the help
 
Sounds like maybe your not getting full pedal travel into the master cylinder, which will mean you`ll never get them pumped up or full brakes if you do manage to bleed them. Try a longer rod.
 
Brakes

Remove master cyl cover depress petal see of fluid level moves this will answer rod length which if you have fluid at other wheels then pressurize master cyl crack lines working your way back till you find fluid hope this helps I had a 73 C-20 the brake rod was to long I remember wondering whats that smell very poor gas mileage my cure was 2 flat washers hope yours is that simple.
 
66 KUSTOM said:
purchase and use this bleeding system, there is NONE better. if you have "air lock" (which ive never heard of) it holds pressure to the complete brake system while you go around, check for leaks and bleed the system. Ive been a mechanic for several years and ive used this brake bleeding system for the last few years. I can do a complete brake flush (out with the old, in with the new) in a very short time. So try it, if it doesnt fix your problem the you probably have a clogged line. If the proportioning valve was the issue you wouldnt get fluid to both the front calipers. If you put used parts on your truck, you need to completly clean everything and rebuild with new orings and seals. but my guess is a clogged line, are they new?

This kit comes with several styles of adaptors to fit many differnt master cylinders, just hook it up , fill the jug with fluid, pump to about 30psi and go to work.
Click to expand...

if you use this setup it will hold constant pressure for you, it will bleed everything, then you can determine if you have a bad diaphram in your "new" master cylinder, a short rod, or a bad proportion valve.
 
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