I have blown 3 coils out of my 52/3100/235. Last time I swore I had turned the ign switch off but I guess I didn't get it far enough and then about 45 minutes later POP and POOF the smoke got out and made a mess on the floor. Not sure if I want to go electronic yet but I may have to. Am I the only person senile enough to have this problem? If so I'll just hang my head in shame and go electronic.... tia Larryd
You've not said if 6 or 12 volts but it sounds to me like you're using the wrong coil ~ it all depends on how much primary voltage your coil is getting with the engine stopped and the points open ~ Post that here and we'll break it down to you . FWIW, coils do run warm but if it burns you to touch it or it pops , there's a serious (but simple) problem you need to address right away .
Ha, Larryd Sounds like Nate is on the right track. Also need to make sure you are using good quality coils. I have found epoxy style coils work best and hold up the longest. Check the connections at your ignition switch sometimes will build up excessive corrision causing issues.
Resistor I don't know if this makes sence or not but I used to have an old truck that had an in-line resistor to reduce the voltage. It went out once and began to burn my coils. Replaced it and had no more problems????
Boopster, I would believe that only applies on 12 volt systems. Resistor's really not needed in most cases with 12 volt electrical systems. Would help here if Larryd would provide the voltage of his truck 12 V or 6 V. My quess is 12 V from what I have seen rare to see a issue with 6 volt systems of coil issues unless the internal gut's were vibrated out of a cheap coil. These kind of parts are important to spend the extra $$ and get the best quality you can. Cheaper in the long run then the first break down.
Agreed guys. You should be able(not that you'd want to) to leave the switch on long enough to run the battery down without blowing up anything!
Sure sounds like a too much voltage situation. I use Pertronix on all my vehicles and equipment and several 55-57 V8 cars we've done because they don't have room for the HEI distributer. On your 235 you have room for the HEI and it is a good distributer with the advantage of being able to run a wider sparkplug gap for a hotter, fatter spark--nice with winter coming on. Don't listen to anyone that says it's a straight bolt in even if they have gotten away with it. You need to turn the collar on the housing so you get proper oil pump engagement. You can then fabricate a hold down clamp.
Ignition Ballast Resistors These things are sort of a sore point with me as they're often added by folks who don't know WHY they were invented and so are unecessary in many cases . This is also why I said "...the voltage at the COIL " as your truck may be a 12 volt conversion but then it may also have a ballast resistor hidden away where you don't see it so then you put the wrong impedance coil on it and VIOLA ! it overheats and boils the oil out of it or worse , explodes and if your face is under the hood when it goes POP you life will be changed forever and you'll still need to push the damned truck off the freeway..... Was I ranting again sorry . Anyway , if you have a pedal starter you prolly don't need a ballast resistor . If you have a key or push button operated 12 volt starter , it's a -maybe- item . If you have a key or push button operated 12 volt starter and live where it gets below freezing -and- you'll actually want to drive the truck in that temperature , you need an ignition ballast resistor and the attendant bypass wiring ~ if you use a ballast resistor , you MUST NEEDS add and use a by-pass circut ! . Epoxy coils are indeed , the best but simply adding the correct impedance Accel Super Coil to your wheezy old truck will allow you to open the spark plug gaps up to .035" ~ .040" and this will give you not only smoother idle but better fuel economy too and it is a simple thing to invert that FUGLY yellow coil into the cap off a Foo-Foo can of glossy black paint and spray it so it's hidden.... I hope I'm making sense as I just finished a long day followed by terrible traffic (Rose Bowl USC game) in a Mercedes full of exhaust fumes....
Ok.. its a 12 volt system and it only overheats when the key is on and the motor is not running. I bought the standard 12 volt coil from autozone. Maybe I need to look into an upgrade coil Thanks Larry
Also, the starter has been changed. My father-in-law (it was his truck from 1956 till 198?) dropped a 1962, 235 in it and "farmered" the electrical system. thanks larry
O.K. , From The Beginning : Larry : You need to do this step by step and follow my questions closely else you'll _never_ get it right . Do you have a multi-meter ? the typ with a dial on it ? if not , go to Harbor Freight or Radio Shack or a yard sale and buy one , they're under $25.00 new and you can even use the $4.95 ones if you're hard up for $ , O.K. ? . You'll also need a test light , this will have a wire with an alligator clip on one end and a shorp point on t'other end , once you learn how to use it , it'll be an invaluable tool . Nowthen ~ take the multi-meter and set it for 20 Volts DC , plug the leads in the various places , red lead goes in the red hole , black (ground) lead goes in the black hole , there will be a hole not used , that's O.K. ~ touch each lead to the battery termnals , black to negative and red to posative , look at the dial face untill you can figure out which scale is reading 12 volts ~ now remove the dist. cap and turn the engine by the fan untill the points are open (or slide a bit of scrap paper between them) and turn on the key , touch the red lead to the coil post that's connected to the truck side of things , not the wire leading to the points ~ I need to know what voltage you're getting right then . the black lead should be connected the the ground post of the battery or the carby as those both are good grounding spots . There is no such thing as a " standard 12 volt coil " as there are several different types and you shoud never trust the guy behind the parts counter untill you get to know this stuff your ownself . O.K. ? once you know how much voltage is reaching the coil (it can be very different from the system's 12 volts) I'll show you how to test your coil and then we'll see about getting you going correctly , O.K. ? this is pretty simple stuff -if- we take it step by step with no skipping or guess work. Trust me ~ this is the kinda stuff that allows me to buy up good used cars & trucks cheaply , spend a few days tinkering then re-sell at a good profit , knowing the new owner will be happy as it'll drive nicely and be reliable . I await your reply Larry , YOU can do this ansd it'll be better than the DPO did . don't worry about " farmered " electrics , they can work just as well as anything else .
Hi Nate and et al, I'm following alone as I need the info too. I have a 6v pedal starter with a straight on/off ign switch for a temp hook up with the intent of converting everything to 12v. I don't have a 'run'circuit so I don't know if I need a ballast resistor or not. I just bought a 12v coil and installed it as my original went POP as Nate says. Yea, I left the key on whicle trying to charge the battery! Bang and lots of smoke. If I need a ballast resistor where/how do I hook it up so it doesn't drop the voltage all the time? Is there a 12v coil that doesn't need a resistor? I'm following along.......
Determing The Correct Ignition Coil : O.K. , you of course asked this question when I'm off duty and miles away from my parts books.... Here's how to do it the right way : Disconnect the power lead from your ignition coil and connect it to a voltimiter , turn on the key and read how many volts are coming out ~ if 6 volts , you need a coil with about 1.6 Ohms resistance , just find a foreign car parts store and ask for a 1965 VW Beetle coil , NAPA makes a good one but you'll have to wait for the part #'s , O.K. ? . If you're getting 12 volts out of the feed wire , you need a 3 Ohm coil , again the coil for a 1972 VW Beetle is good , I like/use/recommend the Bosch BLUE coil but NAPA's epoxy coil is good , expect to find about 3 ohms resistance across the two little terminals . If you have 9 volts at the feed wire , have your helper actuate the starter , the voltage *must* jump to 12 volts when the starter is cranking ~ if not , find , remove and discard the ballast resistor as it's causing you starting troubles allready . If the voltage jumps up over 9 volts when the starter engauges , congradulations you have a functioning by-pass circuit and you require a coil for a 1972 Chevy 8 cylinder , ask if they have an Epoxy one . Please to note I do not recommend adding either a ballast resistor nor a by-pass circuit unless you're also installing a 500 cubic inch Caddillac engine . I am currently using an Accell Super Coil on my Kooky Kommie Moto , it works well and throws HUGE long sparks out of an ancient breaker points ignition system . The exploded coil serves to remind us : never , EVER leave the key on unless you're runing the engine ! if you need to key on for fuel gauge testing , place some plastic sheeting between the points to prevent the coil from exploding and the points from burning too . I'd say you should replace both points and condensor now to be safe . I hope this helps .
As Nate says NEVER leave the key in the ignition with out points held apart. I know, my coil decided to spread oil over the place and such a nice smell as well Easy done, working away checking a wire, 2 minuite job as all jobs are. Here indoor wants something done now cant wait ???? 3 hours later poor coil !!! Gerald
Once again Nate comes thru with the right stuff. If I can get to ole Betsy I will have some more information to add, Thanks Nate!
So , Looking back I see Larry began this thread almost a year ago ~ he never replied , did he give up and leave that beautiful truck sitting in Abilene Kansas ?
No, but I did learn to pull the key everytime I shut it off. I just hang the key on the retro fit NAPA turn signal lever. That way I am darned sure I shut it off. Thanks for asking Larry
