Well, picked up an engine for my 52. 5.3L V8 out of a 2003 Chevy pickup. So I'm still working on the costs to install and get running, but currently I have it pegged at under $2k for a running engine. Picked it up at a local salvage yard for $400 with alternator, starter, brackets, manifolds, and computer. It will cost in wiring harnesses (around $700) but even still that's cheap!!! Considering they sell 700R4 trannies for $500 I think I'll be in business in no time. Anyone ever dealt with the modern EFI vortec engines? I think this will be a fun project. Modern drivetrain and brakes, straight-axle front end (lowered) and a nice resto look on the body. Ah, the dream is starting to come together... Andy
Keep Track ...Pictures ~ LOTS of pictures ! . get some of those throw away cameras and keep 'em in the garage so you can simply snap away . Sound like a big project , you're off to a good start with this engine .
I used to work on these trucks in 2000. Make for sure you get the diagnostic link connector when you get the harness for the ECM. That way if anything ever goes wrong you can see what is going on with the engine. Good luck and if you have any questions let me know. It's been a while since I worked on this engine but maybe I can help out.
Questions oh yes I have many! First off, any thoughts on the fuel system for one of these engines? I know the LS1 types used a dead-end fuel system, so no return line. Go figure, that would work out nice for these trucks. Going to have my new fuel tank modified so I can plumb a larger outlet on the bottom for the fuel line. I see CPP offers an electric pump that would work nicely for feeding the engine (I think). An intank pump would be best, but have to work with what you have on-hand. Also, good tip on the diagnostic port. I can get the whole wiring harness from the pickup for $75. Compared to an aftermarket harness that's a deal. And after talking with the chip programming companies all the emissions stuff can be eliminated, so no air-pump, converter 02 sensors, or fuel tank pressure sensors. Seems like it would be a pretty straightforward install... Wonder if I can get the A/C unit working on this bad boy...hmmm... Radiator, any thoughts on an original or desert cooler working out with this engine? I will have lots of fabbing to do, with tranny cooler, condensor and electric fans. But that will be the fun part! Andy
Show pics often when you get going on this. I'd love to see them. If you're modifying the tank, then why not see if a factory sending unit and pump would work. I don't know what tank you are using but it might be worth checking into. That way you know that you are getting the correct pressure, plus the right fuel volume. Don't overlook volume as some people may. If you do then it will run great at idle but put a sudden load on it, like say to pass someone, and it will fall dead on it's face. If you do go aftermarket (which is fine) then just check the fuel pressure rating for it and the liters per minute (atleast that's how BMW measures it). The liters per minute will let you know the correct amount of fuel volume. Getting your hands on a factory manual from general motors for your engine will be worth it's weight in gold. Not only will it have great pics of how things go together but it will have torque specs and fault code descriptions. Your local dealer may be able to sell you one if you explain what you are doing with it. If you keep the DLC (diagnostic link connector) then invest in a good scan tool. Not just a code reader but one that will tell you what is going on in the engine, just not the fault alone. This will be around a $1000.00 dollars or so, but again worth it's weight in gold when needed. Good luck with it and keep us updated.
V-ate Cooling Since you asked : the original radiator is MORE than sufficient to cool any V-ate engine . if you're worried , just have the radiator shop re-core it with a _4_ row core . Interesting about the non-return F.I. system , I'd be wanting to add a pressure regulator and a return line to prevent vapor locking plus there's a nifty one that connects to the intake manifold and boots fuel pressure (makes it run richer) when the vacuum drops due to you stomping in the throttle it's adjudstable , too ! .
Well, the LS1 style fuel system (at least on a '02 Camaro) had no return. Fuel pressure was adjusted by the computer regulating the voltage to the fuel pump. When you'd stomp on the pedal it would raise the pump voltage and more fuel would be on its way. Not sure with this engine, there doesn't seem to be much info out there on this particular one. Just going to take some extra digging around I suppose. Good info on the radiator. I currently have no radiator, so I'll have to poke around and see what I can find. There are several specialty radiator places locally. I may see what they have to say about all this. At least it doesn't sound like I have to go overkill on that portion... Andy
Fuel pressure is regulated the same way on your engine as the LS-1. If you have no return then fuel pressure has to be regulated this way or like Nate said it will lock. That would be a bad thing to happen. So that's one reason I suggested maybe being able to incorporate the original 5.3L fuel pump to your tank.
Hmm, just more stuff for me to investigate. I noticed a stock pump on these has 3 line fittings on it? Perhaps I'm wrong (small black&white picture). May take some creative welding, but the stock tank could be modified... On the other hand, any idea how to go about fitting a return line to this engine? Pull it off the fuel injector rail where it deadends? Andy
If you're using the ECM (which you will have to if you want it to run) then you shouldn't need a return line on it. The ECM will still regulate the fuel pressure and only give the engine what it needs. If the engine only gets what it needs to run then there won't be any fuel to return. Am I right or am I thinking this all wrong. It has been a VERY CRAZY MIND BLOWING day for me. When you work on these technical cars all day they sometimes get to you. . Let me do some digging in my corvette manuals (same setup basically) and see what I come up with.
I found a link that describes the operation of this kind of fuel system in great detail. I couldn't find my vette manuals, (kinda pisses me off ). I know they're around here somewhere. Anyway this article is a pretty good one and is extremely detailed. Check it out hopefully it will help. http://www.freshpatents.com/Non-return-fuel-supply-system-dt20050811ptan20050175488.php
Modern F.I. Interesting stuff there . I didn't read all that tech jazz as my head is still full of old Bosch D and K - Jet FI info plus carbies and the rest of the useless arcane knowledge I have ... My son tells me I should get on board with the new F.I. and once I do I'll adapt all my oldies to it.... Maybe he just wants more free repair service
Nate this new stuff is pretty darn easy. It's just what you get used to. But I guess you guys think the old stuff is easy and when I look at the old engines I'm lost. The key to the new stuff is just learning what sensor control what and how they all work together to make the engine run smoothly. I don't think you'd convert them all over to the new F.I. because of your passion for the old style, but I think you would probably find it interesting to convert one over. Never know you may get bored one day and try it. Then just maybe I'll get to try and teach you something.
Something New Every Day You guys teach me new stuff all the time and I really apreciate it . I like to learn new stuff I just don't like working on the newfangled rigs is all . After reading about the injected 236 on the StoveBolt site I've always wondered as IMO F.I. is a good thing as it makes for instant starting hot or cold and allows better power -and- fuel economy via more precise metering of the fuel . This should also result in longer engine life unless one stands on the throttle all the time .
