Just like training camp~

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Zig, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Let me see what you got!
    Well, one thing my truck has is a dead battery~
    I have pulled the brake spring I got from The Filling Station and need to take it along to find a similar, STRONGER spring. (but not *too* strong) Just strong enough to finish pulling the pedal that last iddy bit so it TURNS OFF THE BRAKE LIGHTS!!!
    It's bad enough I have not trained myself to cancel the turn signal after completing the turn, but going off and leaving my brake lights shining brightly is (I'll say) frustrating! Not to mention driving down the street with the brake lights shining bright until I remember to reach down and pull the pedal out that last little bit.
    Hey~ At least I've driven it, right?

    One other thing.
    How can you tell if the alternator is truly charging the battery?
    THANKS!
     
  2. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Paul for what it is worth,

    I got tired of charging because of the turn signals and wired them to a 3 way switch, the left side works with the key only the turn key off signals stop working, the right side works off the battery so I can have emergency flashers when need be. Also I bought the last turn signal/flasher unit from a semi-trucks parts house because since owning this truck I have replaced those china clipper units twice.
     
  3. coilover

    coilover Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2005
    Messages:
    2,468
    Location:
    Plano US
    They have turn signal beepers on ebay for under 10 bucks. I don't know about the later model beepers but the ones for back in the 70's and 80's were too loud. Had to wrap foam rubber around them to tone them down a bit.
     
  4. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,110
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    Of Dead Batteries And Brake Srpings

    Paul ;

    Before installing a heavier pedal return spring , did you once again grease the pedal pivots ? .

    The correct spring isn't very strong , what it has is a long set of coils.....

    Look in the shop or parts manual to see what the correct spring looks like , they're getting very difficult to find .

    To easily check the alternator , make sure it's idling at 1,000 + RPM then disconnect the GROUND cable , if the charging system is O.K. , it'll keep running .

    It still runs ? good ~ now , shut it off before re connecting the ground cable .


    It died ? O.K. , it wasn't charging , check and adjust the V-Belt before replacing things , generator testing and service if you need , just ask .

    WARNING !!!! you *must* disconnect the ground (be it positive or negative) cable and tuck it down behind the battery where it cannot possibly slide over and touch the battery post because when you disconnected it , the alternator (or generator) instantly detected a dead battery and went to fun charging ~ re connecting the cable to the battery with the engine running " spikes " the current out put and damages the diodes (alternator) or cutout contact points (generator) , cau$ing $eriou$ damage to your wallet and the alternator or generator .

    Mind the details and this works fine .

    Be careless and you can blow an otherwise fine unit .
     
  5. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Great stuff, Nate! I'm getting close to going out to work on my truck, so I will give this a shot.
    Talked with Bill yesterday and he did , in fact, reaffirm that there is a zerk fitting on the pedal pivot assembly, which I have yet to find. That will probably help a lot.
    The other thing is, I put new felts in the floor that the clutch and brake pedal go through. (This is possibly as nuts of a job as installing window rubber!) It seems to slide through well enough, but the little friction that is made, plus lack of fresh grease might be the hold up.
    The spring I bought was a recommended one from "The Filling Station".
    Anyway, give me some time and I'll get it straight.
    Thanks for the tips, as always!
     
  6. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Houston, we have a problem~

    Well, I pulled the negative and found a new way to kill the engine~

    I went ahead and tried Bill's trick with the multimeter he sent me.

    With the settings on volts, high, engine/key OFF, it reads 12 volts.
    Engine on and revved, 12 volts.

    I'm pretty sure that isn't right, right?

    Thanks!
     
  7. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2002
    Messages:
    2,477
    Location:
    Klein TX
    In an off forum exchange, Zig and I decided to take his alternator to FLAPS for testing. I'm betting Men's life it will test bad.
     
  8. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Needs new alternator~ The post that the lone wire attached to was free spinning when I trying to take off the nut that held the wire on...
    I will be happy to have an alternator that charges, believe me!
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2000
    Messages:
    11,110
    Location:
    AMERICA !
    Electrical Works

    Paul ;

    It is critical to always hold any wire with a ring or spade terminal with one hand as you use a box wrench or socket to loosen the nut .

    This prevents the stud from turning , some times it just gets loose and you can snug up the inner nut and all is well again , often when working on gauges and radios , the moment the stud turns , the inner connection is broken off , killing whatever it is you're working on .

    Before replacing that alternator I'd suggest holding the stud by fingers as you snug up the nut using a cranked box end spanner .

    Nothing lost by trying .

    I assume you're having an internally regulated alternator ? .

    the Delco SI is the one I use / recommend , it's easy to adapt to the Stovebolt engine and every FLAPS in America has one on the shelf , nice when you're half way to Evan's place in Plano , TEXAS and it stops charging .


    Super cheap too ! .
     

Share This Page