L.E.D. Dome light

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by mobileortho, Nov 25, 2012.

  1. mobileortho

    mobileortho Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Hampton, VA
    Changed the dome light to L.E.D. Man, this thing is bright!!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. bowtiesr4me

    bowtiesr4me Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2005
    Messages:
    208
    Location:
    Evington VA. USA
    I think u can put your work light away now :^) :cool:
     
  3. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Awesome, Robert! Was the light from our host? Where did you run the power to it from?
    I'm thinking of running a line from my fuse block hot side to the fixture, but I'm open to suggestions!
    I need to do that before the headliner goes in. (And the insulation...)
     
    cmkruse likes this.
  4. mobileortho

    mobileortho Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Hampton, VA
    Zig, I got the light from Advance Auto Parts but but I'm sure you can find it at just about any auto parts dealer for less than $20. I'd rewired the truck a few years back and it had a designated dome light wire but I suppose you could just run a hot wire to it. I installed a couple of self grounding door jamb switches but also need to come up with a dash mounted switch to turn it on with the doors closed.
     
  5. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Paul,
    That wire for the dome light should be on your re-wire harness you bought.


    Charles
     
  6. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Robert,
    Thanks for sharing this, I'll look into getting one for mine, I already use the led for the stop lights, Thanks again.

    Charles
     
  7. mobileortho

    mobileortho Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Hampton, VA
    I'm planning on getting the tail lights as well. Did you happen to use an LED flasher tool? I'm hearing they may not work without it.
     
  8. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Thanks, Charles. I guess I'll have to check that and see.
     
  9. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Robert,
    I use the L.E.D. bulbs in the 55' style tail lights, I bought them about a yr. or so ago.

    Charles
     
  10. SinclairChevy

    SinclairChevy Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2011
    Messages:
    590
    Location:
    Keokuk, Iowa
    The LED bulbs are less resistive and don't draw as much current as their incandescent counterparts. Measuring less resistance in the circuit, most typical flasher units "see" the LEDs as a missing or burned out bulb, causing the flasher to flash fast (which is the indicator for a bad bulb). There are resistor kits available that remedy this problem, and there are also flasher kits designed to be used with LED parking, stop, and turn signal circuit lamps.

    Damon
     
  11. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Damon,
    Thanks for the info, so far I have not had that issue. The turn signal unit I bought at the Kenworth Trk Dealer in Fontana, California. Damn thing was almost 100$, I'll still look into those items thou. Thanks again.

    Charles
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2012
  12. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2002
    Messages:
    2,770
    Location:
    Morris Ranch TX
    Actually, that would be "the LEDs are MORE resistive and don't draw as much current".
     
  13. mobileortho

    mobileortho Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Hampton, VA
    Zig, someone (I can't remember who or where Isaw it) used this stuff to insulate their cab. it's a tar based roof repair tape. One side's super sticky, the other's aluminum. I used it on the roof and more than likely under the door panels as well. I got the rear of the headliner in but this the front panel's a bear to install!
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Robert, that looks mighty fine, so far! Did you apply a fabric over the top of the cardboard?
    I was wondering if that flimsy (yet very durable) panel material they used in that video you posted a while back on how to do your own interior could work as headliner material? Use the cardboard as a pattern to cut the new from? Maybe use the plastic H joint material that you would use to joint bath panels together as the center strip?
     
  15. mobileortho

    mobileortho Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Hampton, VA
    Thanks Zig, I ordered the headliner and center bow from our host and covered it using some material I had laying asround. Didn't have any luck fiding a rear bow so I found a half inch aluminum strip at Home Depot and made my own. Finished it up tonight.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. ccharr

    ccharr Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Messages:
    2,175
    Location:
    Simi Valley, Ca. , La Paz County, Az.
    Robert,

    That is great looking thanks for sharing.


    Charles
     
  17. Zig

    Zig Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2006
    Messages:
    4,860
    Location:
    Pittsburg KS
    Robert, if you have a few more photos, could you do a thread on "How to install a head liner"? I love the idea of wrapping the cardboard. I assume that the wrinkles that show up would never be seen, and it would add more sound deading material inside the cab. That just looks fantastic! I'm starting to get the idea that maybe this way isn't that bad... Nice fit, also!
     
  18. mobileortho

    mobileortho Member

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Messages:
    550
    Location:
    Hampton, VA
    Thanks Zig but I really dont have enough pics to do a thread. I'm not even sure I did it right and it's not perfect by any means but it'll do for me. The wrinkles on the sound deadner wasn't a big issue because like you said, they wont be seen. This is what I did:
    1. After gluing the material to the board I slid the center bow onto the rear section of the board.
    2. Attach the rear bow (in my case a 1/2" aluminum strip) but leaving it loose enough to allow enough room for the board to slide into.
    3. Slip the rear section in and tighten the screws on the bow.
    4. Slip the front sention into the bow; curse abit; take it down; put it in again, try to adjust, curse, do it again. (repeat four times)
    5. Give up for the night , try again the next evening.:mad::mad:
    6. Day two, repeat step 4 until you get the both corners to stay in.
    7. Install the windshield trim. ( I had to trim the board som to keep it from sticking out from under the trim piece.
    8. Install the sunvisors.
    9. Breath a sigh of relief!:D:D
     

Share This Page