Lakeroadsters' Build Thread: '65 SWB Step

Lakeroadsters' Build Threads

The first part of this thread covers a 1965 C10 truck... and later posts cover whatever the next project is.

As is customary a build thread starts at the purchase of the truck and continues through till the end of the build. We'll start with an index and then a couple of current status photos of the "Ole Orange Crate", just so you know where this is all headed:

Build Thread Index (being updated due to new website format)

~ Click on blue page number to go to that page ~

Page 1

As Purchased
Camaro Hood Louvers
Custom Cab Trim
West Coast Mirrors
The Bed (Correct Fenders)
Tail Lights ?64 Impala
Stake Pockets
Glass Packs & Header Hook Ups
Rear Mount Gas Tank
Spare Tire Carrier
Aluminum Slots & Goodyear Rubber
Hurst Shifter Installation & Hump Repair
Cab Mounts
Bucket Seats
Seat Belts
1967 Camaro Dash​

Page 2

Parking Brake
The Grille
Steering Column
Blazer Console
Rear Bed Rails
Rear Cab Air Vents
Tail Pipes
Bed Floor Wood
Bed Casters and Door Art
Striping the Step Side
Rear Stake Pockets
Roll Pan
Bed Mat
Interior Repaint
Kick Panel Air Vents
Cab Sound Deadener
Reinstallation of Carpeting
Camaro Dash Install, The Final Time
Third Brake Light
Shock Absorber Dimensional Data
Rear Upper Shock Mounts
Hidden Stereo
Front Shocks
Hidden Stereo
CB Antenna​

Page 3

Media Blasting Tail Gate & Bed Steps
Gauge Clusters (Camaro Dash)
Radio Delete Plate (Camaro Dash)
Rear Suspension Assembly
Strippin' The Doors
Painting Interior of the Doors
Door Glass Weather stripping
Fauxtina Paint (5, 6, 11 & 12)​

Page 4

Stripping the Doors
Painting Interior of the Doors
Door Glass Weather stripping
Fauxtina Paint​

Page 5
Fauxtina Paint
Page 6

Bolting Down The Bed
Installing Rear fenders and Steps
Installing Roll Pan & '64 Impala Tail Lights
Painting Chevrolet On The Tailgate
Pipe Pusher Front Bumper​

Page 7
Rear Wiring Harness
Roll On Bed Liner
Bed Width
Page 8
Radiator Support Mounts
Bumper Bracket Attachment
Fauxtina Paint
Page 9
Fauxtina Paint - Pretty Much Done
Page 10

Body Side Trim
Rear Pinion Seal
Cylinder Head Identification
Valve Cover Gasket​

Page 11

Dads Wizard Tool Box​

Page 12

Neals Dairy & Hotrod Fabricators Shop Conceptualization
Two Tone Paint Line Trim - Back of Cab​

Page 13

Header Gaskets
Walk Around Videos
U-Joint and Transmission Seal​

Page 14

Road Trip May 05, 2013
4" HD Rear Drop Springs
Dash Mat (18, 19)​

Page 15

Door Arm Rests
Underhood Detailing​

Page 21

CHEVROLET "Old School" Tailgate Script For Stepside and Fleetside
Stance: Dimensional Data
Bed Step Anti Skid Paint
CHEVROLET Script Letters for Grill
Anti-Slip Paint on Bed Steps​

Page 22

Broken M-21 Transmission Shift Stud Repair​

Page 23

"Yenko" Shop Truck Conceptualization​

Page 24

"ACME" Shop Truck Conceptualization
Side Trim Mock Up: Retro ?57 Chevy Bel-Air meets Yenko Style​

Page 25

Mock Up: 1980?s era Truck Rally Caps on Aluminum Slots
Cab/ Bed Step Gravel Guards​

Current Status Photos

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THE BUILD THREAD STARTS HERE
Purchased in Aug. 2008.

The good list:

• 350 4 bolt small block Chevy, '70 vintage
• M-21 4-speed, '65 vintage
• Short Bed
• Some rust, but better than average

The bad list:

• Wrong bed (67-72)
• Shifter hangs in second gear
• Flame wrench drop job
• Leaks oil big time
• Turquoise truck rallies

Here is the description of the truck off the Craigslist add dated 08-13-2008

1965 chevy short box step side, this truck is 43 years old and has its problems but they are small things and one good days work without spending any money would fix 98% of it. The chassis and body are solid and it is a kick in the pants to drive. I hate to see it go but it is not practical for what I need in a shop truck. It is powered by a ripping 350 four bolt with a Muncie side loader four speed, three inch Flowmaster exhaust, 12 bolt rear end and brand new tires with less than 1000 miles. As for cosmetics the only thing I have done is reupholster the 90 Chevy bench seat, the body has the common rust in the bottom of the fenders and a couple bubbles in the bed but not bad overall. Like I said it is very solid. Great platform for a muscle truck, hot rod or rat rod and very dependable, I have let it set for months at a time and it always fires up on the first crank​

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Camaro Hood Louvers Aug. 2008

An Ebay purchase: 68-69 Camaro SS Hood Louvers. I wanted to break up the expanse of the hood and these classic Chevy trim pieces are old school cool. Easy install since the underhood cross bracing on these trucks is minimal.



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Custom Cab Trim Aug. 2008
West Coast Mirrors Oct. 2008

More EBay scores. The mirrors were a bit knarly when they arrived but being made from stainless I was able to polish 'em up.

I like the big 'ole truck mirror look. After all, it's a truck... not a car. And with the little back window you need all the mirror you can get!



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The Bed Nov-2008

When I bought the truck it had a 67-72 bed. Rather than replace the entire bed I purchased a couple 58-66 era fenders and steps at a swap meet.

Here is how I went about it:

1. Use blue painters tape to mask the upper flange on the steps and the fender mounting flange,
2. Using the 67-72 step bracket, bolt the bracket to the 67-72 bed,
3. Bolt the 58-66 step to the 67-72 bracket (as I recall one hole works, one needs redrilled),
4. Transfer the step upper lip flange mounting holes using a pen or a pencil,
5. Temporarily clamp the step flange to the bed with a c-clamp.
6. Bolt the fender to the step,
7. Level the fender with the bed top rail,
8. Transfer the fender mounting holes from the bed to the fender using a pen or pencil,
9. Remove the fender and step,
10. Center punch the step upper lip and fender flange using the transferred hole locations,
11. Drill the holes in the fender,
12. Debur all holes and bolt the step and fender back to the bed,
13. Rinse and repeat,
14. Step back and enjoy.
15. The step brackets are slightly different for each "era" of step and the step is different for each "era" fender so you have to match fenders and steps.

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Tail Lights Nov. 2008

In conjunction with installing the new fenders I also updated the tail lights. Never liked the bolt on "hangin' out there" look of the stock tailights on step side trucks. These repro set of '64 Impala taillights were fairly easy to install: fab'd. up some brackets inside the fenders and started cutting.








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Stake Pockets Dec 2008

The rear stake pockets were used and abused. The previous owner had attempted to remove them, started cutting and then quit and acetylene brazed things back together.

I bought a new set from Mar-K. Installation was complicated by the PO's welding and hack job.








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Glass Packs Mufflers and Header Hook Ups Dec. 2008

Exhaust.. When I bought the truck it had headers and Flowmasters'. I am not a fan of Flowmasters’ and since I was a child of the 60's / 70's I have no choice but to put glass packs on it.

The mufflers are Dynomax 24214 Magnum Glasspacks: 4" dia. case x 23" long, 2-1/2" in/out x 28" O.A.L. Funny thing is they had "Thrush" stickers in the box (Dynomax owns Thrush now) but they look like Cherry Bombs.... things were so much simpler in the days of my youth.

To mate the mystery mufflers up to the header collectors I purchased a pair of 2-1/2" dia. "S" adapters to bolt to the collectors. I modified these by shortening them up and adjusting the angles so the mufflers would run straight with the frame rails. Full length tailpipes will be run later.






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Rear Mount Gas Tank Jan 2009

Not a big fan of having the gas tank in the cab. Also not a big fan of the aftermarket tanks that mount on the frame and hang so low you can see them from the rear of the truck.

I used a '49-'52 Chevy passenger car gas tank and mounted it in the frame behind the rear axle.

Filler tube is a modified '37 Ford, Locking Filler Cap is a '32-'50 Ford pickup.

Fabrication:

• This modification also included removing some of the previous owners “welded on” bumper brackets and overload springs.
  
• Lower frame rail flanges were trimmed using a Sawsall and a grinder to allow the tank to drop out for maintenance.
  
• Drivers’ side frame rail notched to allow filler tube clearance. Reinforced notch with C4x5.4 structural steel channel.
  
• Bobbed the rear of the frame to make room for a rear roll pan. This involved removing / replacing the rear frame cross member with a new one out of C4x5.4 structural steel channel. Bottom flange of the channel was cut off to allow tank to drop out for maintenance. New rear bed mounting brackets were also made coping some of the C4x5.4 channel.
  
• Fabricated upper tank supports out of 1x1x10ga structural rectangular tubing.
  
• Fabricated tank strap support brackets using 2x1x1/8 structural rectangular tubing.
  
• Ran 3/8" galvanized zinc fuel line through passenger side frame rail to fuel pump.
  
• Installed Fram cartridge style fuel filter

Parts List:Gas Tank: Tanks Inc. P/N 51-CG, 1949-52 Chevy Steel, $195.00

• Mounting Straps: Tanks Inc. P/N UMS, $12.50
• Sending Unit: Brothers P/N ATK59SU, 0-30 Ohm Universal, $26.99
• Gas Filler Pipe: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N 78-9034-B, 1937 Car, $35.00
• Locking Gas Cap: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N01A-18416-B, 1932-50 Pickup, $35.00
• Fuel Filter: Jegs P/N 410-HPG1 (Fram), Canister Style Fuel Filter, $41.99

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Gas Tank Post #2 (Additional Photos)

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Bed Widening March 2009

Time for some major surgery. I want to run 33x12.5x15 rear rubber and some aluminum slots wheels. After doing some measuring I noticed the stepside bed is narrower than the cab.

The stepside bed was designed for the 2nd series 1955 trucks, and was about 3/4" wider than the 1955 cab.

per GM Heritage Center dimensional data:

• 1955 - 59 cab width = 75.32"
• 1960 - 66 cab width = 78.75
• stepside bed width = 76"

So I widened the bed 2 inches on each side for a total increase in overall width of 4 inches. I used a trailer fender cut down the center to make min-tubs. Also added a roll pan (that I had to widen) and some cable tailgate supports.

• For the tailgate latch I am using (2) rubber hood latches mounted inside the bed. They prevent the tailgate from rattling by applying elastic force. I also added urethane tailgate bushings to keep the rattling to a minimum.
• Front Bed Corner Extensions: Fabricated Angle 3-1/2x3-1/2x3/16 steel. Front bed panel attachment holes transfer punch located from bed sides and front panel.
• Tailgate Jamb: Angle, 2x2x1/8 & Rectangular Tubing 2x1x11 gauge.
• Cable Tailgate Support: Advanced Auto Parts generic replacement cable.
• Bed Cross Sills: Purchased (1) new cross sill from Mar-k and cut it into pieces to extend original cross sills. Cut each sill in the center and spliced in a 4 inch long piece of the new sill in the center of each original cross sill.
• Rubber Hood Latch: Speedway Motors P/N 970-07315
• Urethane Tailgate Trunnion: Mar-K P/N 102381

Roll pan mocked up in this photo. It also needs widened.








Update June 2012: The additional 4 inches of width brings the bed width on my truck a little over a 1/2" wider than the cab, as you can see by the photo below:


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Spare Tire May 2009

The step side fender I purchased had the cut-out for a spare tire. The stock spare tire bracket is, IMHO, spindly looking. I fabricated a homemade mount that was simple, incredibly strong and totally hidden with the spare tire in place.

Look at the last two pictures below. Notice how the spare tire sets low on my truck compared to the stock truck in the fourth photo? That's because the fender I have is off a long bed step side. The cut-out is lower on the fender on a long bed. Not nearly as strange looking as the stock, up in the air, mounting arrangement. Only downside is it limits the diameter of the spare that can be used. I ended up using a 640-15.

Stock Style Spare Tire Mount For Short Bed Fender. Note that there is a hole in the spare tire recessed area for the stock spare tire support rod to go thru:


Custom Spare Tire Mount I fabricated. Also note there is no hole in the spare tire recessed area:


My Truck has a long bed fender to mount the spare tire lower:


Stock spare tire location for a short bed fender:
]

Drawing of fabricated spare tire mount:
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Aluminum Slots & Goodyear Rubber June 2009

I found (2) 6 lug 15 x 8-1/2 Indy Aluminum Slots and (2) 15 x 7 Western Aluminum slots via internet searches. Rear tires are 33x12.5x15; fronts are 235-75-R15.

Classic “Big & Littles”:






The spare is a "Coker" Firestone bias ply that is vintage correct for a '65. The stock tire vs. the new rolling stock adds an interesting contrast:
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Hurst Shifter Installation and Hump Repair Nov. 2009

Got the '57 Chevy Hurst Shifter installed and fixed the previous owners horrendous gaping hole in the floor. I welded in a 2nd generation Camaro 4-speed trans. hump.


^^^ The Previous Owners Mess ^^^

 

Cab Mounts Nov. 2009

Installed new rubber cab mounts. The front passenger side body mount was a bear to replace. The bolt was rusted tight. Used a breaker bar to twist the nut off and then an air impact chisel to beat the rusted bolt up and out of its 44 year old crusty home. The cab mounts were purchased from American Classic Trucks Parts and they fit great. All steel parts and fasteners were anodized. Should be good for another 44 years!



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Bucket Seats Nov. 2009

Since my truck is running a Muncie M-20 trans. the floor shifter doesn't work well with a bench seat.
Seats are by Scat and are their Pro Car Lowback Series, got them from Summit Racing. They are very good quality, came with the seat adjustment mechanisms, they recline and they have a storage compartment on the back.

I fabricated the seat brackets from 11 gauge 1-1/2 square and 1-1/2 x 1 rectangular tubing. Seats are mounted high enough that with the window rolled down you can rest your arm comfortably on the window. Might seem silly but little stuff like that drives me crazy.

Next step is to install retractable lap belts.





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Seat Belts Dec. 2009

I purchased a set of retractable lap style seat belts from Juliano's. Utilizing the seat brackets I made previously I drilled the brackets for the 1/2" bolts and then made spacers to move the attachment point away from the seats by 2 inches. This allows the retract mechanism to be out far enough from the seat that it doesn't interfere with the seat back recline lever.

Seats, seat brackets and seats belts now are a single sub-assembly.



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1967 Camaro Dash Dec. 2009

Here I go again, I guess I just can't leave things well enough alone. I had intended to leave my interior mostly stock but it has been butchered by the previous owner; radio opening is ruined and the glove box door opening has been damaged. Having "hot rodder" blood if I am going to work on something I am more inclined to modify than I am to restore.

A bare steel 67 Camaro dash structure was on on Ebay the other day and I sniped it. The plan is to install it in my 65 C10. I have a bit of experience in modifiying a 67 Camaro dash to fit another vehicle as I did this on my Model A hot rod.

After some basic measuring I have found that the old Camaro dash should fit well. On the Model A I had to chop out about 18 inches out of the dash width and build a new structure on the vehicle to accept the dash. This took a lot of cutting and splicing. At first glance however for the C10 it will need to be lengthened. It appears the existing upper dash panel and support structure from the C10 can be retained and the Camaro dash can be welded in place. Measure ten times, cut once and then trim to fit.

Here are a couple pictures of the modified 67 Camaro dash I shoehorned into my Model A. I sectioned the glove box door and changed it to a single gauge pod. Remarkably it looks right at home even though it is 36 years younger than the old A bone.



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Camaro Dash Post #2 Dec. 2009

The upper top and upper front of the '67 Camaro dash is flat, as is the '65 C10. The plan is basically to mount the bottom of the Camaro dash to the bottom of the C10 dash at the steering column and then lean the top out so the front of the dash is the correct angle. Keeping the steering column, and under dash supports for the swing pedals will greatly simplify this dash installation.

First photo shows the stock dash.

Second photo shows the test fit. I cut 2-1/2" out of the bottom of the Camaro dash at the gauge pod location. Once it was rigged onto the stock dash I determined that 5" will be added between the glove box door and the center gage bezel area. All things considered it appears the Camaro dash will look "factory" once all is said and done.

Update 12-24-09:
Third & Fourth photos are of the extended dash without the sheet metal filler piece. First I cut the dash between the glove box door and the center dash cluster. Then an upper support was made using 3/4" x 1-1/2" rectangular tubing. The tubing was welded under the upper lip of the dash and then the same tubing was used to fill in the lower support.

Fifth photo shows a test fit of the extended dash.

Next step is to add sheet metal to the opening in the dash made as a result of extending the dash, then cut out all the areas of the stock dash that are no longer required.

So far so good....









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Camaro Dash Post #3 Dec. 2009: Added Filler Piece to Dash Extended Area

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Camaro Dash Post #4 Jan. 2010

No turning back now! Cut out all the original dash except the top area and began fitting the stretched Camaro Dash. Made brackets so the new Camaro dash is a true bolt in unit.

Working out pretty well thus far....









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