could use some additional info, i can't seem to separate lower balljoint from spindle,tried the fork, tried spaying it down with pb blaster and hitting the sides with a 4lb hammer,any suggestion will be greatly welcomed, thank you all for your help,tim 65,fleet,shortbed,driver side
Is the spring still in ? The easiest method of seperating the spindle, upper or lower, from the ball joint is to - With jack stands under the frame and the spring still in, back the castle nut off to the top of the threads. THEN wail away with the 4 lb hammer. The spring tension should POP the ball joint free of the spindles. Take the tension off the spring with a floor jack under the a-arm, remove the castle nut all the way, then S L O W L Y lower the floor jack. BE CAREFUL ! The lower ball joint will then need to be pressed out of the lower a-arm. DVal
DVal, thank you for your quick reply, i already tried that, still no luck, i understand that the lower balljoint is pressed into the a-arm, yes spring is still install, do you know of any other ideas. Thank you again, Tim
Tim, Soak the spindle area and ball joint threads with penatrating oil. Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc. Really get it in there heavy. Let it sit overnight. Next day hit it again and let it sit for another 1/2 hour. THEN WAIL on the spindle with a mini-sledge. It will come free, don't give up. That 4 pound hammer might not be enough. Go down to Harbor Freight and pick up his bigger brother.. DVal
DVal, i guess i should have tried working on the spindles today, i will try again tomorrow, i was putting the bed back on the frame today , i think you are right, i might need a bigger hammer......i was looking at your photos online and was wondering if you are from the Modesto/Merced area, i don't know if i am aloud to ask, thank you again for your time, Tim
I'm from Sacramento Tim. Downtown, Land Park area, if you know where that is. Wanna come over and borrow my mini-sledge ?? DV
This is an elementary question but are you using just one hammer? On tough ones it really helps to use a BIGGER hammer on the opposite side. You will need a helper to hold it tight against the side opposite from the one being struck. We have some homemade air hammer tools that are theaded for popular stud sizes. On balljoints you usually have to use a "dogleg" to have access. For some reason the rapid vibration type force will nearly always pop em loose. On tie rod ends the where you are straight on it works 100% and you never tear up the rubber boot. We do use REAL air tools and not $29.95 discount specials.
I ran into the same problem when I did my truck. I beat the dog snot out of this pickle fork and it just would not give. After a couple hours of beating my arms just gave up. A buddy of mine came up behind me , gave it two good wacks and it popped loose. That got me fired up mad and the other side only took a few wacks. I think that my main problem was the fork I was using was pretty well used and pretty flimbsy. After that I bought a new Craftsman fork and haven't had a problem like that since. Pete
