Made driver side door lock for 47-51

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by coilover, May 17, 2007.

  1. coilover

    coilover Member

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    I made a drivers side door lock for a 47-51 that is simple and works good. I hate to think I'd be contributing to Neil's (Brit 50's) longevity by not having to get out on the traffic side but sometimes you have to take the bad with the good. First one took about 4 hours and minimal material--plus a second key lock assembly. Time could be cut in half or more for second one since the thinking part is pretty well worked out. You can see the lock is a bit forward of the handle shaft centerline while the factory right side is directly below but if you don't park in front of a mirror no one will know.
     

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  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Need MORE details ! since the driver's side doorlatch doesn't have the parts needed , how did you connect the lockcylinder to the latching mechanism ? .


    :confused:
     
  3. brit 50

    brit 50 Member

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    Thanks for including me in this post, even though there wasn't a lot of love there.
    ________
    Creampie gangbang
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  4. coilover

    coilover Member

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    Brit 50,you know we love ya or we colonials wouldn't give you a rough time. Still feel the score is heavily in your favor but trying to catch up. Nate, I'll put a couple more pics on and with your knowledge I think it will be obvious. The first pic shows where the lock lever shaft hole is drilled, a 3/16 hole here. The second is of the lock lever, the third shows the lock lever DOWN(unlocked) which allows the pall lever to disengage when the outside door handle is turned down, and the fourth shows the lock lever UP (locked) which doesn't allow the pall lever to disengage. Although this prototype works really well there are several improvements that would increase the dependibility. The locking lever could be thicker (this one is only 16 guage) and the shaft from the key lock would be better if square or hex rather than a blade. There is a blade slot in the locking lever shaft and a short piece of tubing to capture the key lock shaft but I think something other than a blade type connection would be better on say a real rough road or if a gorilla starts cranking on the key.
     

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  5. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Thanks Evan, I know that clears things up for me! Thanks for your time to post those excellent pictures!
     
  6. coilover

    coilover Member

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    This seven decade old brain must have an IQ ranging between that of an amoeba and a slug. Nate asked about the the connection of the lock shaft to the latch assembly and I described apples instead of oranges. In the pictures posted in my first response to him the locking lever is painted silver and the pall release lever is painted orange. Here are a couple pics of the lock shaft to the locking lever. The end of the lock shaft has been ground flat and the notch filed in the locking lever shaft so it's a snug fit. The 3/8 steel tubing captures the lock shaft so it can't slip put. IMPORTANT: this door lock cylinder has been modified so it turns round and round. In other words, it could be opened with a screwdriver or knife blade. The reason for this is the customer wanted the pointed end of the teardrop shaped door lock to be facing back and the key to insert with the notches down just like the factory one on the passenger door. He said if someone tries the handle and it's locked they aren't going to stand there trying other things. He's probably right but if one wants to use the working chevy lock it will have to be installed in the door opposite of the right door (teardrop pointed forward). It would be MUCH easier just to use a round lock assembly.
     

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  7. sloromon

    sloromon Member

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    a most excellent post, sir. i suppose all the fabricated pieces are unnecessary for us '53'ers with the push button locks, eh? although i do like the look of the flippy-door on those older model trucks.

    jon
     
  8. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Thank You Bill Hanlon!!!

    Bill sent me an old lock cylinder like this that he had setting around. It was still in the original Briggs & Straton box! It looks like the one CP has for @ $40. When I asked how much he wanted for it, he just said to do the same for anyone else on this site~ pass on something that someone else needs that will help them build their truck.
    Not only have I learned some about AD trucks on this site, (I remember when I didn't know what AD stood for...) but I have learned that there are truely great people here. Bill, Ken, (going out of his way to help TB'sD) and of course, Nate. Go ahead and throw everyone else in the mix as well, because they try as best they can to share information, pictures, and knowledge that will help others.
    As a third grade teacher, I often find myself looking at my students and wondering what kind of a world they will have to live in. Will people care about each other and try to help each other? That answer comes from what kind of role models they have as they're growing up. I feel good about the children related to the members of this page. Good role models to follow.

    Okay~ I didn't get toooo far off the subject did I?

    What I wanted to say (besides thanks!) was, I now have a lock cylinder with a square shaft. (about 1/4 in square) I also have some great pictures to go by, and in a week or so, I'll even have the time to get into this! Thanks again Bill for the b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l lock! And thanks Evan for trying to be so thourough in your explanation of how you did this. When I get around to installing mine, I'll try and add anything you didn't to this thread- if that's possible.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2007

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