There has been several discussions on master cylinders and one topic is with them not fitting and/or clashing with some other component. This should be a non-problem as a MC can be MOUNTED ANYWHERE; trunk, glovebox, old radio hole---anywhere. Usually such a radical relocation is not necessary and simply using a longer push rod gets it away from interference points. On a 30 Plymouth sedan we mounted the MC just in front of the left rear axle and used a long PULL rod from the brake pedal to a frame mounted bellcrank that then had a short PUSH rod to the MC. On a 57 Cameo PU we ran a longer push rod right through the center of the gutted factory MC to a bellcrank mounted to the top of the frame with one arm inside the frame and one outside. There is a very large space on 55-59 TF pickups between the running board box and frame rail where a booster/cylinder can be mounted and the push rod hooked to the bellcrank. The 57 (and probably 55,56) T-Bird had the cylinder/booster mounted way up by the radiator with a small manual brake cylinder on the firewall. This gave rise to the remote mountings where the regular location didn't have room for a booster. The factory cylinder is retained and just a 3/16 or 1/4" line is run from it to the remote mounted slave/booster/cylinder unit mounted ANYWHERE.
Longer Push Rod ? Evan Thanks for the information and photos given here. I would be very happy to get some more advice to get the install done ! I figgered out that using a longer pushrod might give the solution to my problem as there is to litle space to mount the power brake booster bracket in its original location as the 4 speed Saginaw housing is to wide. I need to find a suitable new location for the PBB further backwords on the same left side of the frame , move the crossmember and then make new mounting holes and measure out the new push rods lenght so it fits to the brake pedal. Is there any vendor in the US that sells different sizes push rods or do i have to make one my self ? Attached link of the power brake booster i have ; http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-Power-Brake-Booster-Conversion-Drum_Drum/productinfo/71-903/ Have a nice weekend Martinius.
Martinius, Here is what we use as a rule of thumb in selecting longer push rods. Up to 25 cm one about 10 mm in diameter, 45 cm long about 12 or 13mm, one 60cm long about 16mm, and up to but no longer than 90cm one 19mm in diameter. anything longer needs a pull rod and bellcrank with a short push rod. Push rod material used is a good grade 3mm wall controlled diameter tubing or the same in 4130 chrome moly tube. Speedway Motors offers threaded weld in bungs to screw the spherical rod ends into ( we call them "Heim Ends") into the tubing and nothing bigger than 9 or 10mm rod end is needed.
Thanks fore the excellent tech. advice. Evan Wanna thank so much for this tech explenation. I am going to look into this and contact Speedway Motors if needed. I dont think its posseble buying the mentioned "Heim ends" in different lenghts in Norway. Martinius.
The Heim joints are threaded to accept threaded rod. Be shure to use hardened rod, not the weak stuff at the hardware store.
I didn't think of Heim joints with female threads, would be much easier. We have always used the ones with the male threads which require a threaded bung. The Heims use a fine thread and you can get grade 8 all thread in fine thread, or use good smooth rod with whatever thread length you need put on with a die.
