New Guy, Need help with an '83 C10

[WMarshy]

Need E-Brake Help...

Here's my truck...

I just finished up all the brake work on it last night except for the e-brake. I have no idea where/how it gets hooked up inside the drum. If anyone has any info on how to hook it up, or even better a picture, I would appreciate it. Here's a photo of the new hardware I got on last night. First side took me a over an hour and a half and the second side took 15 mins haha.

 

[vwnate1]

?! BLUE brake Shoes ?!

What the heck is that all about .

Brakes , look in the exploded diagrams on either Chevrolet Obsolete in Ga. , or The Old Car Manual Project , they both have lots and lots of factory photos and exploded parts diagrams .

From now on I know you'll always only take apart one side of the brakes at a time..... .

 

[WMarshy]

I did only take one side apart but, I had two different hardware kits and extra parts. Come to find out neither one had the hardware for the e-brake. I looked on lmctrucks.com and found what Im missing... I thought the blue brakes were weird too, I bucked up and bought the expensive ones an they happen to be made in USA!!!

 

[WMarshy]

Found out this last week after replacing everything from the rear splitter out in brakes that I had a line leak between the coupling (mid truck) and the rear splitter... So, off it came. Got new line (about 110 inches!), bent it up an put it on last night. Just got my mightyvac in yesterday so I will be bleeding them tonight. I had to place an order at LMC for some missing parking brake hardware, that should be in soon and on to wrap up the brake work (can't wait for that to be over). Once I'm done with the brakes I will be puttin in new rear leafs as both sides are cracked and the driver side has 2 missing. A friend is giving me a set of 1.5" lift blocks for under the leafs. I will throw them in in the coming week once I get me order... Im going to have to wait and see if I can aford new front springs as the rear aren't cheap (178 each)! Just trying to get this thing on the road! I will do the front in the future though, they are a little saggy...

 

[vwnate1]

Good Springs

Can be purchased OnLine from Eaton Spring Co. ~ they'll have the good quality ones and lowered too if you want that .

Also , Diamond Springs are good , I forget who carries them . Maybe J.C.Whitless .

Beware of local spring companies ~ I bought some here in L.A. and they were crap ~ floppy like spaghetti .

 

[WMarshy]

I finially had a chance to go junk yard pick'in and picked up the shifter and linkage that I needed for 4WD. I still havent decided who I should order springs from. I decided I want to lift the truck +2.5 inches while replacing springs and found www.4wheelparts.com has a set of ProComp rear leafs for about $155 each. I looked on JCW.com and they had some for less but they are from a no name company... Im all about saving money but not at the cost of quality. Ive never been a fan of JCW so I doubt I will order anything from them...ever.
Just been busy removing all the junk emission hoses and getting all the lights working. I have to put the rear bumper on and then Im going to put it on the road and drive it. I still have to put the front drive shaft in after I replace all the U-joints and I want to replace the yoke oil seal so it will stop leaking. Got front and rear to do before the snow flies.
Went to the Chevy dealer yesterday to get the last part I need to hookup the parking brake. Unfortunately, he couldnt tell me what one I needed b/c he needed to know the option code the truck came with... I just had him order "the middle one" of the three choices. Im just going to hope for the best as I cannot return it if its not the right one...

 

[WMarshy]

Well, I think I have all the parts necessary to finish my parking brake. The GM dealer had three types of lever arms that the cable hooks onto and he couldn't tell what one I needed without knowing the brake option code when it was new...so, I just picked the middle one and Im hoping for the best.

Anyways, last night I decided to change the front and rear dif oil and found something interesting in my rear dif. Looks like some water got in because the oil was something nasty.

The front looked good, the oil looked almost new. You can see the factory markings in this pic, I counted the teeth and found out that I have 3.42 gears...

Think its possible for water to get in through the pinion seal since it wad leaking oil? Right now Im trying to decide if the pinion bearing is good or not... Seems to have some 'wobble'. If it is bad then the new seal wont last too long and all my time will be wasted. I guess I need to figure out if its bad or not, any suggestions on what to look for/check? I didn't think the gears had excessive lash in them but, I did notice the pin holding the spider gears has some noticable play... Your advice is appreciate. Thanks...

 

[Pontiac1976]

First thing check to see if your vent tub is long and hooked up to the bed. If your off roading in water, the water should not be higher than the pot if so then you get a longer hose and make sure your check valve end is working (free clean) Then I would clean out the diff was the gears with new oil (gear oil) Take safety precaution jacking up the diff get someone to spine hubs listen for bearing noise of heave groans or squeezes or rumbles.
If its ok put in new gear oil and a gear additive try it for a month keep eye and ear on it.
If the water has started to rust the bearings or they stick I would get all new bearing & seals oil. The first part is only if you want to try to save money you’re really sure bearings look ok. If you’re not sure I would re and re with new parts and Gear oil.
If you go in high water long enough some seals may suck in water or the vent tub where the water get in.

If you get water in as long as it not in to long or rust the bearing should be ok.
But better to be safe then sorry so make up your mind what you can live with & Afford.