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Discussion in '1947-1954' started by Robs52trk, Nov 19, 2021.

  1. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    it is not an overly difficult thing to install a replacement stock harness .

    There's a rubber grommet where the hareness passes through the firewal, the chances of that rubber grommet being in any good shape are vanishingly small and the only time it can be replaced is when the harness is removed .

    The original harness was steel with with live rubber insulation covered by lacquered cloth .

    Modern stock harness' are available in plastic covering and copper wiring, *much* better and safer than the originals .
     
  2. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    Dumb question as I’m about to get into a mess of wires is the top bulb in the tail light assembly for the tail light blinker and bottom bulb for the brake light ?? Or is it the opposite??
    Thanks 0699CC65-31DA-4052-8F5B-EC27BB7DC7FE.png
     
  3. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Nice .

    The upper bulb is the brake light (#1159 6 volt) the lower bulb is the running light (#61 6 volt) .

    I usually mask off the housing and paint it gloss white inside, it really brightens up the lens, 6 or 12 volts .

    Consider using LED's ~ they draw far less current (easier on the generator) and if you get the right ones are far brighter .
     
  4. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    Than mine is wired backwards my top bulb is the blinker and brake lights are no longer working and fuse for dash lights blows the fuse before I can get it in the fuse block
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Well understand : the tail lamp you pictured uses two single filament bulbs .

    The modern reproductions of the same lamp use one two filament bulb for tail light and brake/turn signal and one smaller single filament bulb for the license tag .

    Same with the front parking lamps ~ they're designed to use a single filament bulb, no turn signal .
     
  6. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    D5CA50F2-F979-4E63-8E17-52C54C1C67CB.jpeg 36FC4E49-9DF7-4FA9-90B6-80C710B58803.jpeg 9C709ED0-A6C9-442F-9DBE-ACE7B9B970BA.jpeg 9C709ED0-A6C9-442F-9DBE-ACE7B9B970BA.jpeg 0B51696F-6A58-4283-A2B5-8E88363D71B6.jpeg A9E161D6-CDE6-4E78-91AE-3FE410BA47A4.jpeg A9E161D6-CDE6-4E78-91AE-3FE410BA47A4.jpeg 0B51696F-6A58-4283-A2B5-8E88363D71B6.jpeg 9C709ED0-A6C9-442F-9DBE-ACE7B9B970BA.jpeg 9C709ED0-A6C9-442F-9DBE-ACE7B9B970BA.jpeg 36FC4E49-9DF7-4FA9-90B6-80C710B58803.jpeg D5CA50F2-F979-4E63-8E17-52C54C1C67CB.jpeg Spent sometime trying to chase down some electrical gremlins with no luck taillights quit working along with no brake lights no front parking lights dash lights keep blowing fuses before you can even get it in the fuse block so going to take this 22 circuit harness out
    Have never been happy with it the way it was hooked up got what I paid for on the instillation.
    So today i ordered a 12 circuit ez wire harness
    And hopefully I’m successful installing the harness myself. I did get a quote yesterday for a complete rewire for $2k
     
  7. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    Sorry for all the duplicates
     
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  8. Chip

    Chip Member

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    Alot of that wiring looks like a major fire hazzard. And those blue 1/2 tap connectors are OK for your occasional use trailer, but I've never used them. Future high resistive opens when a bit of corrosion builds up, and if the cap pops open then shorts to ground popping fuses.... and fire. Solder and heat shrinks is a pain, or even crimp and shrink connectors, but alot better than some of that mess.
    You are going to be better off and safer with the new harness.
     
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  9. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    Totally agree never been happy with it since day one but when your not able to do it yourself
    You tend to trust people that say they can and have done that type of work .
    Getting quotes now and wow
     
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  10. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Whew ~ let the games begin .

    FWIW, those blue 'Scotchlock' connectors are well known for causing problems, mostly open circuits .

    I see some wires change color in mid stream, this too is a very bad practice .

    Since you're going to re do it, take the time to find and purchase some copper push on connectors and solder them , you'll be very glad you did in the long run .

    Keep us posted please .
     
  11. RidesWithYah

    RidesWithYah Member

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    You're well ahead of me, so I don't have pictures to offer. But have you seen "trailer cable"? You get 6 or 7 automotive-type wires in one neat little package. I'm thinking one up front (Hi Beam, Lo Beam, Ground, Park/Fog, L Turn, R Turn) and one to the rear (Brake, Tail, L Turn, R Turn, Ground, Fuel Pump?) would be a simple, neat and tidy way to take care of the lighting.

    I've been looking at Blue Sea fuse blocks and Hella relay blocks; it would be nice if there were something that incorporates both.
    I'm all too familiar with under-dash spaghetti...
     
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  12. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    For safety run the taillights on separate fuses / circuits....
     
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  13. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    Like these? Just type "fused relay" into your favorite browser. Then get a set of relay sockets with male dovetails on one side and female on the other side. Makes for easy electrical work.

    upload_2022-4-8_22-9-46.png
     
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  14. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    yes ~ those are it exactly .

    The pictured one is 30 amperes continual duty and 40 surge .

    Hella and BOSCH make 50 ampere ones, these are all over vehicles in junkyards and almost never fail .

    Make note of the schematic diagram on the side, tey can be used to toggle for lights off the low beams and so on.... *very* useful .
     
  15. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    3A0B6361-5328-4ACD-9BD0-9F7F02B151F2.jpeg I about to redo the whole electrical system I was looking online with no results for the wiring of my blinkers switch for the steering column signal-stat 900 any help is much appreciated.
    Thanks
     
  16. Chip

    Chip Member

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    Being an electronics tech, I would break out the old volt/ohm meter and conduct tests on all of the center/left/right lead positions of the switch, noting all of the wires actions with the positions. But I like building things from scratch.
    p.s. I've been around long enough to realize that color codes don't mean squat without full documentation. Test before full turn up, or things may go poof.
     
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  17. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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  18. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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  19. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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  20. Robs52trk

    Robs52trk Member

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    F5309198-6D8A-4C64-97BD-5F3110124945.jpeg 4B31AF53-302B-4020-BBBF-B5BFB4DA9965.jpeg 69D1FDF8-CE29-4D21-97C4-A0C921E4D78E.jpeg 65EE790C-D80F-462B-A4F5-32463CB13558.jpeg 5965AE8F-556B-4D45-9D97-414D603E3FAC.jpeg
     

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