Hello, at my truck is oil leaking at the seal from the end of the crankshaft to the side of gear box. I know that the seals are two stripes, we call them in German Borgmann rings and they sit in two halves that fits around the crankshaft. I know if the car is standing about a longer times those seals will leak. I have two questions, - If I change these seals must I put of the engine? - Does it give a newer methode with other seal - Simmering - to keep that part dry? If someone have an idea and perhabs some photos, he will help me surely. Wolfgang
First, is the side cover tight? Just go see if the stovebolts need a turn or two before you go dropping the pan. My truck leaked for over a year before I seen where it was coming from.
Rear Main Seal Wokri ; No ,you don't remove the engine , just the sump , this is a fairly easy job if messy . I am told there's now a modern synthetic seal that fits where the old rope typ of seal used to go .
Engine repair I am very intrested to know how your engine repair came of ? How did you repaired it and what result did you get ? Keep up the good work Martinius.
Dear Martinus, what do you mean, the oil leaking or my problem with the crack were water come out? Wolfgang
Thw engine block crack Good evening Wolfgang I am intrested to know about the repair of the crack in Your engine block and what the outcome of that is ? Thanks Martinius
The repair Hello, So, I thought about how to repair the block thoroughly and ask an old school friend of he is an engine builder should I let weld the crack in the block or not. He told me that I can do this if I find one who is a specialist in cast iron welding. He told me that he had no one in my area. Some friends of me are owners of a iron foundry. They told me they give their parts to Hannover to an institut, but they said there will be always a risk to weld an engine. It can be okay and everthing will be fine but it can also be that you will have after welding a banana, an crooked block and this will be very expensive to get it right. They gave me an adress for a factory which sells cold welding products and they close with that gas tanks who have a crack. Here the internet address: http://diamant-polymer.de/en/products/multimetal/ I cleaned the the part of the block where the crack is very careful with aceton, mill cut the crack on the hole lengh a little bit, drilled at both ends of the crack a hole and cut a thread where I screwed screws in it which hold on a sheet metal. Between the metall of the block and the sheet metall I put the cold welding 2-component repair system. After waiting 2 days to let the paste will get hard, I sprayed a substance which is called Dichtol, here the address: http://diamant-polymer.de/en/products/dichtol/ I made last week a test drive and looked if the part around the crack is dry and it was.
Amazing product range! Wolfgang I am so glad on your behave that you sucseeded finding a Product that gives this promizing result.This without any spesialized help . These Products are well documented Congratiolations. Thanks for sharing Your photo. Can i ask you what the price range is for a 1/2 liter of this Dichtol ? Good Luck With the leakage , tell my if you can fix it with the new Product that Nate advized you to use instead of the wrope Product. Never to old to learn Martinius.
Dichtol Hello Martinius, yes you can, I payed for the spray about roundabout 50 Euros. Thats no cheap, but I think thats a good product.
Rubber 235 Rear Main Seal Sorry for the late reply Wokri , I never forget a request , some take years . Anyways here's the brand and # : Part Number: FPG BS13363 Product Line: FEL-PRO Gaskets Here's a link to the website I looked it up on : http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C.../Rear-Main-Seal-Set/_/R-FPGBS13363_0165552845 NAPA Auto Parts tends to have pretty good stuff if pricy . I went there and entered : 1961 Chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup truck with 235 I6 engine , then I clicked on engine parts & gaskets , there's dozens of pages of " Hard parts " to choose from . I hope this helps you out . FWIW , whenever I do a rear main seal job , I always replace all the main bearing shells to ensure the crankshaft isn't flopping around . If you have access to a Cylinder Leakdown Tester , I'd get and use that too as worn out piston rings cause over pressurization of the crankcase and of course , this means more oil is pushed out during normal operation ~ few American Mechanics ever learn proper piston ring breakin because the engines run about the same even with significant blowby . Me , I break 'em in in 60 seconds , very carefully and have more power , less oil burning and less weeps & seeps of oil . I'm also a big believer / user of " Gapless " (staggered ends really) piston rings for the same effect & reason . You being German , I assume you understand my extremely picky ways of Auto Repair and Engine Building even though I have old junk . Please keep us informed .
You're Welcome ! Again a slow reply ~ I've been 3,000 miles away . I hope you get the leak stopped , I hate oil leaks .
Hello Nate, my truck makes winter sleep. But thanks for links. I found a dealer for US cars which can my sell the seals you posted. So next month, after I made my beetle convertible, I'll take my truck on the car lift and will have a look where the oil comes out and on this way I'll change the seals at the crankshaft. Wolfgang
