Going to try a build thread; first ever and might be as appealing as yesterdays meal floating on the surface of a septic tank. In the beginning: Long bed single cab S10 (nice truck totaled due to engine fire). Cab and bed removed; all done with a 17mm socket Frame cleaned top and bottom
That didn't work so good but you get the idea. NEXT: 1/2 inch plate cut to shape, marked, then drilled and tapped for factory motor mount. Welded to S10 front cross member.
Everyone STOP LAUGHING! Now to the ad-engineering kit. Cab mounts are set in place with metal building screws (easier to re-position, later welded). S10 mount cushions are used and there should be a 2" spacer in the kit for the rear cab mount.
Tape line is run across back of cab to show factory bed height (measured from any factory AD). Important so the fillers between the running boards and bed will fit.
Sheet metal in place. Radiator core support has bottom cut off just above the curve and attached to S10 frame with angle iron brackets.
Running board mount modification (if an early kit) so it clears the rear leaf spring eye bolt bracket. The frame end of the bracket is cut at a 45* angle.
Front bumper brackets modified to fit S10 frame. Final ones are formed from strap to eliminate welds.
S10 with 2 1/4" spacer. Note S10 frame has to be cut off even with front of steering box for front sheet metal to fit down in place.
Radiator raised to clear power steering gear box. Just drill new holes in mount flange and re-mount in a higher position---hood will still clear.
Steering column was cut, raised, and floor anchor made. Bushing in bottom of column, AD steering shaft to S10 steering shaft connector and factory S10 shaft and rag joint used. Raising the column allows this and gives exhaust manifold clearance.
If using a mechanical fuel pump heat a spot on the front cross member and massage in clearance with a BFH.
We use a Ford accelerator cable because it just takes a small round hole in the firewall and has a built in return spring. It's in the 11 o'clock position beside the brake booster. Other end has integral return spring.
A very simple start in park only switch. Solenoid wire from ignition switch is run through an all weather (boat) starter switch which is activated by a tab on the shifter lever.
If running a V8 or the 4.3 V6 it is not necessary to buy the high dollar long temp sensor tube, just drill and tap the rear coolant crossover runner on the factory intake manifold and the AD temp sender will reach with room to spare.
For an E-brake just cut off and re-thread the rod that used to run from the foot pedal to the cross shaft on the AD frame. Install an equalizer and run the E-brake cable from the backing plates through it. This will be just like E-brake set ups used for years.
