Radiator boil over

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by LaTroca52, Jul 18, 2021.

  1. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    had a radiator boil over a couple of weeks ago I put a new water pump,new fan blade a new lower radiator hose a new thermostat and cap a new upper thermostat housing a new aluminum overflow tank
    Have a electric fan that drains the battery even when truck is running.
    Pics will follow
     
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  2. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    C95A1B82-655F-4161-A93D-1414A1E09555.png 554645F9-E938-4DD0-906E-2018BE1A4BFF.jpeg CA9919A5-29E7-477A-936C-8D823F51C730.jpeg CA9919A5-29E7-477A-936C-8D823F51C730.jpeg E6C0767F-643E-423E-8CD6-9B2CA43D7FDC.jpeg FDBA3683-7093-475B-821C-B288739B9835.jpeg D0A8D1FA-8366-42D3-B9B7-FF906AE17D0A.jpeg 9BCB2C9A-7F7E-499F-84D4-C3FB823AD4FC.jpeg So I’m thinking boil over might have been do to new lower radiator hose had a flat spot in a bend of the hose the replacement radiator cab is a 16 lbs new thermostat taking long time to open the radiator is clear sometime back I had a radiator shop go through it after boil over I flushed it a few times and back flushed it water flow is fast and clear
     
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  3. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    Pic of crust that was in lower hose after sitting for about a year or so
    Pic of old water pump that as on engine when I got it was leaking bad pic of water pump green background is new water pump I have on now pic of electric fan possibly blocking any natural air flow
    Pic of upper thermostat housing the gray one was on engine when I got it and I noticed that the inlet hole is a bit larger of original one pic of replacement radiator cap lbs too high pan of 3 thermostats did a test this morning
    Top thermostat is the replacement and very very last to open one I took out was on the left had opened first even before water boiled. Last weekend I bought a flex lower radiator hose for the truck
     
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  4. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Looking like progress to me .

    What did you use to dissolve / loosen the rust scale when you flushed it ? .

    Are you running plain water now ? .
     
  5. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    The radiator has been clear the whole time after I had a shop rod it out a few years ago I believe the wrong parts was the cause wrong lbs radiator cap a weak lower replacement hose thermostat with heavy spring no opening not burping the system and possible the new overflow tank with no room for air to escape old plastic one had a small hole in the cap never had an issue too bad I tossed it out and the electric fan (useless) blocking and air flow
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    You didn't answer my questions....

    There's a cooling system upgrade that involves using a Ford V8 water pump pulley, I no longer remember the details but I found the one specified at the Long Beach Veteran's Stadium auto swap meet for $10 .

    The electric fans need to be properly installed and wired to work, if you use one you don't use the water pump fan .

    Radiator pressure has no effect on cooling, it just raises the coolants boiling point by 3 degrees for every pound of pressure .

    Properly mixed coolant boils at a higher temperature than plain water .
     
  7. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    Yes plain water and Nothing to flush the radiator just used the water hose. and back flushed it also with the hose as of right now radiator is empty no hoses on it and petcock valve is open and what ever water is left in the block I’m going to see if I can open the valve or plug in the block and take temp gauge off the head to see if clogged
     
  8. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    O.K. then ~ plain water is very bad as it forces rust to develop inside the water jacket where you can't see it .

    Failure to use a flushing agent to dissolve the built up rust silt means there's still rust sediment in the wee corners of the block and cylinder head .

    To make things worse, where you live has incredibly "hard" tap water ~ this means high mineral content, great for making beer, ruinous on liquid cooling systems .

    A baking supply store will sell you dry powder citric acid, mix one pound of it in three gallons of water and fill it, run it, drive it a few days and the mix should turn black as it dissolves the rust sediment that is insulating the cylinders and combustion chanbers...

    I have been there and done this many times since the 1960's and until you get the water jacket fully clean it'll never run cool .

    One more job that YOU will do better because you care and won't rush it .
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Just for fun, use a 6 point wrench and remove the block's drain plug then wiggle some unbent coat hanger in the hole ~ bend it thisa - way and that, get it in as far as you can them yank it back out, the reddish / orangy stuff is the old silt that's been there so long it's like dry mud .

    Takes a lot of work to remove, I've had more than a few I removed the freeze plugs and scraped out 1/4 pound of this nasty stuff .
     
  10. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    There you go ! .

    Use "shout" or other sudsless detergent to clean out any old oil, grease or runner slime, then flush it again and mix the citric acid out side of the rig, mix it well until fully dissolved then add it to the cool engine and start it up, drive it a while or set it on a fast idle (1,000 RPM +/-) and let it do it's thing ~ because the silt will be nearly dry it takes a while to come loose, I like to drive the rig to work and back, after a while the mix will begin to turn black and you'll notice the red color in side the radiator will begin to disappear .

    This is not a job to be rushed .

    Right now it's close to 100* F daily so be careful and don't get burned nor allow the engine to spew .

    Any time the gauge reaches 212* F ( boiling point) STOP and let it cool down before continuing ! yes, I know this is a pain where you sit, I got stuck in South Central Los Angeles right when a small riot broke out in my '49, nothing to do but sit and wait in the Summer sun....

    When I'm doing the Citric Acid flush I carry several gallons of DISTILLED WATER Wallymart and other places usually have it for .99CENTS the gallon ~ don't ever use tap water ! .
     
  12. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    Ok so to I put the new flex lower radiator hose to replace the new lower radiator hose I just replaced. put the thermostat that I had in the truck back in tested last weekend and was working better than I one I bought to replace a good one,
    Took the electric fan that I thought would help if needed off that was blocking any air flow through the radiator. Filled radiator with some coolant and water I will redo with a 50/50 mix soon I put a garage fan in front of the grill ran truck for awhile and no heat up what so ever left cap off to see water moving around temperature gauge on dash was staying right around the 180 mark.
    So that worked out real well
     
  13. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    Next issue I had swapped the generator out for a new alternator when truck was rewired a couple of years ago don’t remember the amps.so the charging system isn’t working battery not charging volt gauge in truck needle not moving at all but I found a sticker on the battery and it’s date is 2013 so I’m pretty sure that’s a big part of that problem.i did tighten the alternator belt
    Than last issue give a little back story when I took out the 216 I had just had the duel exhaust pipes with a split manifold,so when I put the 235 in I put the 216 intake manifold and split exhaust on the 235
    Sooo a couple of months ago I bought a Fenton duel carb intake manifold but never got it to run right because one of the carburetors was for a 216 engine. Soooo I put a stock 235 intake manifold on and now when I turn the engine off it won’t start unless I dump gas down the carburetor runs good has good idle btw after I replaced the leaking water pump the fuel pump went out at the muffler shop when the duel exhaust was getting reworked to fit the Fenton headers.so has new fuel pump and yup tank has gas in it plus the 5 gallons I put in today.
    Thanks
     
  14. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    hard to start unless primed often means the intake manifold has leaks ~ this is a common problem and is best solved by how you tighten the bolts ~ offer up the combined manifolds to the cylinder head with the two manifolds slightly loose from each other, once you have all the bolts started and finger tight, tighten them down from the center out wards going back and forth .

    It is critical to not have any bolts on each end ~ there should be a short stud / pin sticking out to help install it but NO BOLTS OR STUD WITH NUTS ON THE ENDS ! .

    This is critical because the manifolds expand and contract at a different rate then does the cylinder head so having the very ends tightened down leads to leaks and sometimes cracking of the manifolds .

    Once you have all the bolts tight, them and only then you tighten up the found nuts pinching the intake and exhaust manifolds to - gether .

    More later if you need .
     
  15. LaTroca52

    LaTroca52 Member

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    Thanks nate i will go back and loosen the manifold bolts and follow you tighten order
    Also I did change a spring on the carburetor accelerator pump and will put the one I took out back in .and as far as the truck not charging
    A new battery is in order . I tighten the alternator belt i pulled it back about 2 inches
    Now the belt is snug and p/s stopped making noise to. Seems I’m always chasing grimlens
     
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  16. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    This is normal with machines of this age ~ they were designed differently and require constant attention .
     
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