Rattle Can Magic ?

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by booger, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. booger

    booger Member

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    ok Zig and other foo foo can masters, getting closer to painting the outside of truck. is it necessary to use etching primer if bare metal or regular primer? top the etch primer with fill primer , primer , primer sealer or what? and what kind of life expetancy? from rustoleum or Duplicolor products ?:confused:
     
  2. ol' chebby

    ol' chebby Member

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    Etching primer is for bare metal, then you can use a thick primer for blocking. Rattle can painting large panels is notoriously hard to get even. It is surprisingly easy to get decent results from real spray guns....you have to do all the steps...masking, sanding, etc...either way. By the time you buy enough duplicolor spray at $5+ a can, you may actually come out cheaper using some cheaper automotive paint. Base/ clear is easier to paint in the base stage and dries quickly, you have to be careful with the clear. Single stage paint goes on in one sticky step, dries slower, but is fairly forgiving for repairs. Eastwood sells complete paint kits.
     
  3. booger

    booger Member

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    its a farm truck. my compressor is only 5 cfm cant spray much with that. dont have a spray gun. just trying to do the best i can with what i have i know spray cans are not the best and may still be costly but what do you do
     
  4. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Who, ME???

    Rattle rattle!:D

    I'm sure ol'chebby is correct on final cost of rattle cans, but for just doing a little at a time, I've found that it's just easier to use "the can, man". Like Ken's 50 said, you don't want to take your crusty cab (or any other part) down to bare metal and not hit it with something.

    I use self etching over that "like new" bare metal, then go over it with sanding primer. And yes, I've used Rustoleum. Sanding IS needed, even if you can lay it down as smoooooth as I can.:rolleyes: I've found wet sanding to work better than dry~ guess it keeps the paper from clogging as badly?

    After that, I'm putting on Centari acrylic enamel followed by chromaclear clear coat. (All from Napa) I'm putting this on with my twin tank AirMate. A small compressor, but it keeps up. If I was trying to paint the whole truck at once, it might be a challenge, but I'm not, so~

    My only regret is that foo-foo red won't STAY red for many years. Otherwise, I would have done my whole truck with the RATTLE!:D
     
  5. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Laka laka laka laka............................

    It's do-able , take your time and lay it on in panels , listen closely to the guys here as they have much experiance .

    I bought a nifty plastic handle for Foo-Foo cans that allows much better control when painting .

    Remember : the better quality rattlecan paint you buy , the better the job comes out .

    Consider the " $50.00 paint job " thread as that actually works , we used to do it with Acrylic Enamel and later on buff the paint to a mirror shine .
     
  6. Zig

    Zig Member

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    Laka laka laka...

    Funny, I hear that sound every time I shake my head!:rolleyes:
     
  7. booger

    booger Member

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    Lacka - Lacka - Lacka

    thanx guys i would still prefer to use a spray rig if i can come up wit everything but if not then the cans it is . course only sections at a time . and yes oh master Nate i have and used the handle for the cans whilst spraying interior and bumpers saves the sore fingers!
     
  8. willardgreen

    willardgreen Member

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    Paint brush

    Paint brushes work good for the parts that dont get waxed. its amazing how far a quart of rustoleum will go. I like the 1.5" brushes that some dollar stores sell. The frame and under the fenders can get a good coat QUICK. I painted a ford all over with one. Lay it on with regular strokes and then take the brush and dob it. It makes a orange peel effect, like it was sprayed with thinner that dried to fast.
     

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