I have a 1951 Chevy 3100 and I would like to do a 5 lug conversion in the rear but I have to change the rear end. Any1 have any advise of what rear end will be direct fit without much fabrication and also if it's possible to put a posi rear end?
watch your rear. LOL. Well, hello there and let me be the first to welcome you to the forum. We like pictures here, so it's pretty much required as a newbie for you to post some before you get ANY answers from the forum members (just kidding, but we DO like pictures). I just did such a conversion after driving the truck with the stock rear for five years. I used a '73 Nova rear end. The Camaro rear end of the same vintage is also one of the preferred rear ends to use. Yes, you can put a posi under it. Why not? Had to use 1 1/4" billet bolt on spacers on the rear hubs and 15" X 7" wheels with a 4" back space to get the tires to clear the bedsides. The new rear is 3.08:1 vs. the old 3.90:1 that was in my '55 first series truck. Still have the original I6 engine and SM 420 4-speed trans. Truck goes 65 MPH on the Hwy now at 2200 RPM. Much nicer. Also, at same time put in the front disc conversion kit from Speedway. Also, much better. Use the search function and you will find many posts on the topic you are interested in, but please don't forget about those pictures. Andy
Welcome! I agree with Andy, changing to a modern rear axle is a huge improvement. I used a 10-bolt 1978 Camaro rear, with drum brakes. The main thing to look for is a rear-end with the same width as the original, and with the GM 5-bolt pattern. (5X4.75) It is not terribly difficult, you will need a good welder and make careful measurements. Axle seat placement as well as driveline angle are critical. Also, you will have to engineer new e-brake cables. I also agree with Andy, a disc-brake, 5 bolt front end conversion would be good and I would strongly suggest a two-pot modern master cylinder for safety's sake. Also, remember, the conversion to a open driveshaft rear means the need for a open driveshaft transmission as well I used a 3-speed many years ago, but, the modern trans. of choice seems to be a 5-speed from a 1980's S-10, V-6 powered truck. You've come to the right place for advice, the guys here are very knowledgeable and willing to guide you along. Search the threads and you will probably find this conversion with many pictures. Hope this helps a little and welcome!
The S10 4x4 is a popular swap. I am about to start installing a Colorado rear in a 54, to keep the factory 6 lug wheels. I have done Camaro/ Novas and a 95 Impala SS REAR WITH DISC BRAKES.
Welcome, Tony! Yup~ You need to get some pictures of your baby here ASAP. (Or we'll give you bad advice.)
Let start by saying thank you for the great advice and happy to be part of this forum... So if i put a 73 nova rear end I wouldn't have to do and welding or modifications?
I was thinking about putting a 350 chevy small block with at 700r4 transmission because I want to drive my truck everywhere when im done with her. Do you guys recommend that for this truck?
First, don't worry about what WE recommend, it's your truck, and you're the one that has to be happy with it. So if having a belly button (just like everyone else's) is what's going to make you happy, by all means, drop a 350 in it. My itch to be a little different was scratched by stroking it, 350 block +.030 + 400 crank = 383cid for my old Chevelle. Ran it that way until the body disappeared, and pulled the drivetrain planning to put in my old truck; along with a 4.11 posi set up for a Nova and a 200R4 OD trans. But now I'm looking at all those speed parts, and they just don't match the character of the truck. I've had this truck more than 25 years now, and I can't see making it "just another V8". So I'm going to keep the torque tube, and the three on the tree, and (mildly) hop up the 235. Dual carbs, headers. Maybe a cam and deck the head if I end up needing to pull it anyway. I don't need to take the truck on the highway. I've got other vehicles for that. It'll run around town and the back roads just fine with 4.11 gears and real truck tires. Others find happiness in other ways. Have a look at the C-notch thread for a very different take on "unique". Not my favorite flavor, but I sure do admire the craftsmanship and engineering going into that build. You can also put an independent front under it, or bag it, or talk to Sid about a dropped axle to get YOUR perfect stance. So, what do you want your truck to do; and what will make YOU happy?
You would need to cut off the mounts and weld on new saddle brackets. I will cover this in the 54 thread. https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=20942
Gears multiply torque, and divide speed. So with a gear like a 4.11, you'll get great acceleration ("stump pulling torque"), but the motor will be screaming at highway speeds. My '81 Chevy came with "highway gears", a 2.73 ratio to keep RPMs down on the highway, and help gas mileage. It was a complete dog off the line -- 0 to 60 in about 3 days. We used to have to compromise, getting a ratio somewhere inbetween. But if you're serious about that overdrive transmission, you can have the best of both worlds. Take that same 4.11 rear, throw a 30% overdrive (~0.7 ratio) at it, and you end up somewhere around 2.88 overall gear ratio in OD. Good mileage, easy to cruise at speed at a reasonable rpm. And you've still got your standard gears for getting up to speed (or pulling stumps).
Nice!!! I like your truck. Now get it off there trailer and on the road. When I got my truck, the decision was to get it on the road as quickly (and as cheaply) as possible. I went COMPLETELY stock style on it. I found a good running 235 6 cal. engine for free, a trans for $100.00, and a parts truck for $300.00. It went together quickly and kept my kid's interest as they were younger then and I wanted to keep them excited about the project. Understand that your plans require EXTENSIVE work (read-EXPENSIVE work) that is time consuming and requiring of many specialized tools and know-how. If you don't have those tools or know-how, then somebody else is going to have to do the work (more expensive than YOU doing the work...also less fun IMO). I'm not trying to dampen your excitement about the truck. I'm just giving you a mild reality check so you don't rip the whole truck apart, only to get discouraged and have it sit in pieces forever while you figure out how the heck you're going to pull this project together. Think long and hard. Come up with a plan (like the one you already have). Make a parts list and a labor list for costs of supplies and work to be done and a time line for getting it all done. THEN DOUBLE YOUR TIME ESTIMATE AND PARTS AND LABOR COSTS That should about cover it. After driving my truck stock for about 8 years, i decided to upgrade it. First, I thought about an S10 frame swap, but the kids hated that idea. they wanted the truck to retain it's original flavor, "I LOVE the smell and the sound of this truck. Don't take that away". So I kept the 235 6 cyl. engine and SM 420 trans and swapped out the rear end and upgraded the front to disc brakes and it has made a world of difference. The new 3.08:1 gears in the rear are going to keep my engine happy at low RPM's on the highway and extend it's life for sure. The LOW first gear on the 4-speed means I can still use it as a truck and the disc brakes make for safer stopping all while make the kids and me happy and retaining the original "flavor" of the truck. Your truck, your choices. Most of all...have fun and keep us all updated. Andy
Yea your right but I have done other projects and I went the cheap way and at the end of the day I had to pay double to fix, because something was always happening. This project I want to do it the rite way and enjoy my truck, im not in a rush.
That's a good approach, if you can afford it. I don't know what's available in New York, but if I were in a financial position to have others do the work, I would send my truck to Russ rather than trying to find someone locally. Have a look at his build threads. Shipping a vehicle isn't that much in the grand scheme of things.
Hi Guys I am kinda new at this vintage Chevy truck stuff but I have some money down on a 1951 1 ton Chevy truck....I am already planning the simplest modification that I can do to get the truck more traffic friendly. I just finished a 1947 CJ2A Willys rebuild and it wont go much over 45 MPH. I figured I would go back to the AD style truck, I found one that runs but needs brakes (dont they all)...so I am going to be looking for a Chevy rear end and a 1/2 ton front axle and do a dual master cylinder swap (Speedway seems to have all this stuff) and hopefully this will get me a more driveable old truck but still keep it old and smelly the way old trucks are supposed to be... You guys really seem to know your stuff on here...I am learning everytime I log on here... Thanks for posting. MikeC
You pays your money now, or you pays your money later. I avoid doing projects on the cheap.....It WILL cost more in the end. Most modern overdrives are mated to around a 3.70 rear end from the factory. Send it down, I'll take it on!.....I have Fatman superlow M2 with 2" spindles and bags, stock chassis, 95 T bird IRS. It will sit the running boards 3/4" off the ground. I would fully box the frame, then do the suspension of your choice.
