Time to have a little fun and learn while we do. They ought to make this a "sticky"! There are times when you improvise, go against the "norm", but manage to Git-r-done! Someone asked me the other day about how you protect your vehicle against rust in the hard to reach areas. I told them that they need to improvise. A good example is the inside of the bedrails on an AD truck. You can't reach all of it with a sandblaster, you can't take a 3M paint stripper to it. How do you inhibit the rust and keep it from bleeding down the bed 2 years after you've painted your truck? You do what this redneck did. You build a tool! I took an old mop, broom, whatever handle and affixed an absorbant material to the end of it. Then I saturated the material with Jasco metal prep and ran it in and out until I got full coverage of the inside roll. Here's some before during and after shots. I feel good about the fact that this part of my truck will not cause my paint to bubble up from within in a couple of years. So now, does anyone else out there have a good redneck tip of the day to share?
Why heck... I just poured NAPA Rust Treatment (that worked so well on my floor boards) down inside the fresh air and driver side vent openings to stop all that might be happening unseen in those closed off channels until it dripped out the bottom drainage holes and prayed for the best...
Farm Repairs I think I've mentioned a few of the less ghastly repairs , one I really liked and should have saved the picture of was the fix for a leaky Torque Tube U-Joint ball , they simply tied an old kitchen pot to the Torque Tube with hose clamps so I was underneath the ball housing...... When it filled up they'd pump the oil back into the tranny using a $2.00 platic gearoil pump Worked fine for years . I know dozens (maybe thousands) of these typ of repairs , some I did , most were on old junkers I found and was repairing .
