Remove Tank and Dis Brakes

Discussion in '1955-1959' started by steve, Nov 22, 2012.

  1. steve

    steve Member

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    Well everyone,

    Winter is here and my two off season projects for my 59 will be relocate the fuel tank from the cab and install dis front brakes, I been reading a lot of the treads on both topics. I will try to photo progress of each.

    My first two concerns, with gas tank relocation, I need to figure where I like the fill tube to be.

    On the Front brakes; I have the complete kit where the master cylinder will be relocated in the original location
    Also what I found out that the rims will need to be modified to correct the caliber, I run original rims, and will keep original look.

    Peace, Happy Holidays, Bless our Military
     
  2. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    I mounted my tank under the bed, behind the rear axle. The fill tube mounted on the rear of the driver's side rear fender, about 1/3 of the distance between the crease on the fender and the bottom.

    Having the tank out of the cab was dictated by my 6' 5" height, however I really appreciated the tank being far away when this happened:
    https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=17800
    You can see the filler location on the first picture.
     
  3. steve

    steve Member

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    Fuel Tank Relocation

    This is my attempt on removing the 17 gallon in-cab stock fuel tank to under the bed. I do believe between the bedrails is the safest location. I like to keep the same gallon capacity. However with the frame rails 34 inches apart allows approximately 29 inches wide space for a fuel tank.
    I read other post and also do not want the gas tank to hang down more than it needs to. I looked at various tanks from online speed shops to ford mustang units and some SUV's.
    I do think the one our host sells (as for many aftermarket alike tanks sellers) but do not want to shell out 300 dollars for this mod. This tank would be fine if you did not want to remove the rear cross member (the one located at the rear springs hangers).
    But I do not want my filler tube in the bed.
    The pictures is what I am starting out with.

    You may notice the spear tire brace was temperary relocated (holding the tape measure).

    Keep in mind the bed is 2 inches above the apache's steel frame. The frame is 3.5 inches tall (thick) so 5.5 inches from any tank depth, is the ballance that will be hanging below the frame.


    Bill, you locate a new truck or should I say old truck?
     

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    Last edited: Dec 23, 2012
  4. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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  5. Bill Hanlon

    Bill Hanlon Member

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    Not yet. Ken (Kens50) and I have looked at 7 or 8 so far. None have been right.
     
  6. steve

    steve Member

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    All of them

    Lakeroadster.

    Sure I have,
    I looked at all your postings, and followed your build. Checked out your renderings you have provided all in great detail. You also post on other sites “hot Rods” etc. greattruck build and you have a great talent. As for me, I have to stay within my abilities. I did everthing on my truck, Did not rebuild the engine but installed it. You can fabicate and weld, I can burn some rods, and it sticks I'm more of a drill and bolt type, did not want to cut a new tank. And wanted to make sure everthing could be purchased for this mod. I am thinking of using a CJ7 15 gallon tank and skid plate.
     
  7. steve

    steve Member

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    Chrstmas Eve Progress

    Don't go anywhere around the Holidays, helped wife bake cookies, so I get to step outside (snowing a little) and finish drilling out my rivets.
    The jeep's 15 gallon tank will sit between the bed rails and is almost two inches above the truck frame.
    I relocated the rear cross member but noticed that it will need to be turned upside down, or the rear bed cross member would not sit level. Would have been raised up approximately one inch higher then the others.
    The silver lever in one picture in front of the tank, is mocking the bed cross member support (again 2 inches tall clearance).
    The tank is 5 inches below the frame. with the skid plate for protection. and may not be below the bumper. I have to check that.
    The rear exhaust will be changed to run parallel with the frame, I just purchase a GM "G" body exhaust system and installed on the truck, $125.00 got me over the rear axle. This will once test my welding and cutting abilities of 2.5 inch 16 gage tube.
    Back to the fuel tank notice where the rear mounting will be and also notice the 1. ¼ fill tube?

    And yes the dog seen a squirrel, I seen one with a bright yellow wire nut in his mouth, it's going to be one tough winter for him.
     

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  8. Lakeroadster

    Lakeroadster Member

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    Looking good Steve. That CJ7 tank seems like it was made for this application.
     
  9. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Looking Good !

    Keep up the good work there .
     
  10. steve

    steve Member

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    update of progress

    It’s around 38deg and raining in Northern Virginia so the truck is in the shed. If anyone is a neat freak don’t let my shed scare ya!. It houses my stuff my son’s stuff and some stuff I don’t know where it came from.
    The first picture is the spair tire cross brace being relocated and used to support the CJ7 skid plate. The skid plate doubles as the support for the 15 gallon steel tank this is an original design. Drilled holes in the support where to original mounting screws were for the skid plate.
    The second picture is the front frame support. This originally was the rear spring cross support drilled the rivets out and then relocated to the end of the frame and also turned upside down. Turning it upside down provided the correct elevation for the rear bed support to rest correctly and level with the remaining bed cross supports. The holes were drilled in this brace also.
    The next two pictures are the plastic liner and the liner installed, all original Jeep (AMC) originalequipment.
    The remaining pictures are the tank installed and the rear support picture showing the profile of the support and why it was turned upside down.
    Next will remove everything and clean up the steel. Will need to repair the rear frame section where the bolt holes rusted away. I don’t think it hang down to far. And the exhaust has about three inches of clearance. I also will redo the pipes to run paralell with the frame.
     

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  11. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Gas Tank

    That all looks pretty good to me ! .

    Your shed is far cleaner than my crumbling "T" Model garage...
     
  12. VELCRO

    VELCRO Member

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    gas tank

    Steve, your work looks good. Liked the pics, shows details.
    My truck has a fuel cell from Summit Racing. It came with a sending unit and I also got mounting straps from Summit. I don't remember seeing two people mounting their tank the same as others. We are all different and have different abilities and resources, we do what we can with what we have. For those of you who want to install a tank, Summit has fuel cells in different sizes and shapes, they are another source for supplies. Our host has a tank listed too. Of course shopping in a used parts yard is another option.
    Gerald in Florida
     
  13. steve

    steve Member

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    Some Progress

    A little progress, busy week flew to Florida pick up my in-laws well into their golden years and returned home with them. The man’s a sports genius, can reflect dates, players’ names and player stats. His body slowing down and his wife has her hands full, and her mind is fading. It puts everything in perspective, life, family and relationships. I try to support my wife as much as possible.

    Anyway back to my escape, I welded my relocated cross brace, 30 minutes of welding 3 hours of grinding, and the main result penetration. The top cross brace is installed and the tank does not hang down lower than the rear bumper with a skid plate that's cool.. Lakeroadster, would be poking me with a welding rod stating, “you call that a weld, come ‘on man” (just kidding)


    I located a filler cap and pipe I think of using, the picture of the blue and black cap is what I am thinking the outcome should look like whereever it’s located.
    I ordered some 2.5 inch exhaust piping to straighten out my tail pipes. Need to replace the hangers too. I was thinking of relocating the mufflers just behind the bumper under the bumper brace/brace, that’s where all new cars are locating them.
    The inside pictures is the existing tank, non-leaking but can hear it sloshing around. If anyone needs a good tank let me know we can work something out.(meaning cheap/ or trade). I would like bumperets any condition?
     

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  14. steve

    steve Member

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    Electric ohms 30 vs 90

    Looking at the fuel sending units the jeep works off 90 ohms and the stock 1959 unit works off 30 ohms, which matched the existing dash gage.
    I have two options modify my existing (new) fuel sending unit to work with the existing tank or figure out how to make the stock gage work off the 90 ohms jeep sending unit.
    I was planning on installing a new gage clusters that looks like stock has a very small tack at center bottom and you can specify what ohms you need when ordering.
    My new wire harness came from Hot Rod Wires and no splices from the dash fuse box to the rear, well I will now splice just behind the cab using the weather GM type connectors, (wherever there is a connection I have used these connectors).
    The rear wire harness only had three wires yellow, brown and green, I will add two more colors another shade of brown (fuel sending to fuel gage continued from inside of cab) and a spare red or blue. For future options, back up lights, toaster or something.
    I think my large round plastic fuel filler is too big for this application and will divert from this option. I may go with the stock look (cab filler access) and just relocate it in the rear fender.
     

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  15. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Fuel Tank Follies

    You're a wise man on several levels ~

    Taking care of the In Laws is nice , I got suckered into it early in my marriage , lucky for me it turned out they were O.K. .

    Dtto the XYL , gotta keep those home fires burning above all else .

    I like the job you're doing here , it looks nice to me .

    I am sure you know that the gasoline you can hear sloshing 'round in the original fuel tank is to remind you : a horrible firey death await if you ever get centerpunched :eek: .

    Me , I know and accept it but most don't know else there would be very few in cab fuel tanks .

    If you're buying new gauges , I'd go with the current sender .

    I kinda like how the inverted rear bumper looks ~ will you retain that ? .

    I used to run inverted license tags on my old Motos .

    Mufflers : the further back they are , they better they'll work (sound & power) .

    The further forward they are , the longer they'll last .
     
  16. AZ58Cameo

    AZ58Cameo Member

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    Were is the inverted rear bumper Nates talking about?
     
  17. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Inverted Rear Bumper

    On the back of the truck ~ license tags hang down , not up .

    Step Bumpers tend to have up facing tags .

    Or , I'm old & feeble minded and got it wrong yet again :p .
     
  18. steve

    steve Member

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    I can invert it If I need to LOL

    After removing the two sending units the 83 Jeep CJ 7 and the 1959 truck, a comparison shows similar in size and components. But will need to address the differences and perform some modifications.
    The 1959 is almost inch two inches longer. It hits the bottom of the Jeep fuel tank when inserted. The first pic shows 10 inches of depth. Also the tops attachments are different (4th pic); the Jeep uses a ring type nut and the old 59 has five screws. So I need to address, attachment, length and 30 ohms vs. the Jeeps 90 ohms. The whole intent is to keep this a low buck conversion.
    I had the tank, $95.00, I had the skid plate $56 dollars, would be the cost if items were to be purchase new.
    First removed the jeep items not needed on the sending unit (5th pic), as you can see cutting all the items associated with the electric stuff not to be used; I over cut the top ring and had to repair with a weld (Pic 6 ans 7), my bad.
    I will remove the trucks electric fuel level sensing device (pic 8 a cut in the tube) and attached it to the Jeep fuel tube. The last picture shows the removed and reattached trucks sending unit guts (electric stuff) to the Jeep’s fuel tube. Keeping my copper float vs. the plastic one. Now the jeeps sending unit will have the truck 30 ohms components with the fuel tube of the existing Jeeps design including the Jeep’s attachment ring. Next I will extend the wire harness.
     

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  19. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Good Work !

    What you are doing here is the very essence of American Hot Rodding .

    That you're sharing bot the pictures and explanations , is just icing the cake IMO .

    Carry on ! .
     
  20. steve

    steve Member

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    An update

    Well it’s cold here in Virginia and need to get back on my project and the relocating of the fuel tank from the cab. I moved the truck outside to perform some welding, don’t want to weld in the shed, wood floor. (long story with code requirements not allowing me to build a garage on my acre lot). So a shed was born.

    The tuck is housed in this 30 x 28 shed since 1991, protecting it from the elements. But poor scheduling on my part and a schedule that took me away lead to this.

    The view from the cab overlooking the windshield brings back many memories, see I am only 53 years young but owned and understood the American truck interest since I could drive (age 15) I owned several GM trucks.

    The next two pictures are the room in the cab after the fuel tank was removed. I not a big stereo fan, however I do enjoy all types of music, I don’t think I be putting large woofers and tweeters. I was thing of making my original bench seat motorized and allowing it to slide back some more, we’ll see.

    The good tank is in my shed, someone needs it, the price of shipping and 20 bucks. Just so it can go to good use. Or it will go on e-bay and the trucking enthusiast will go on frenzy and mass bidding wars will take place…opps! got carried away there.

    There are pictures of some items that will need to be removed and the old filler will need to be plugged, more welding and grinding soon. Some people sell panels for this at $14.00 I will use some old door skin I have and beat and bang till it matches the body profile.

    You can see the routing of the fuel line and that it needs to be extended, I plan on installation an inline filter somewhere in that location. The frame has been cleaned, one picture you can almost see the electrical connection. I hope to have the fuel line connect and move the truck back in under cover this week.
     

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