Hello forumn, I have a 1952 1/2 T bone stock driveline. I have a very leaky differential. The leak is coming from the cab side of the differential where the driveline meets the pumpkin. What is the easiest way for me to get a new gasket on? Should I pop the all the leaf spring hardware and shimmy the whole thing forward to get that gasket in or drop the driveline? Waht is the easiest way? Help! I'm slippin in Hyponic gear oil all the time. Thanks, Ryan
Welcome Ryan, I am absolutly of no use to you in drivelines , mine is modern underneath. BUT, I do want to welcome you to the world of AD truck lovers. I guarantee that one of these experts that do know about drivelines and other goodies will be able to steer you right. Ask away, these fellows are great. BTW, we have lot's of fun here also The Boops Dad
Hey Ryan, ditto what the Boops Dad said. While you are waiting for some rock solid advise let me give you a website that will be of great value to you as you play with your truck. It's an online version of several shop manuals, repair booklets, etc etc covering a lot of chevys for a lot of years. www.chevy.tocmp.com i've spent countless hours on this site and think it's one of the greatest tools available to us gear heads and wannabe gear heads. As you look through it, there is a booklet entitled 1952 Rear Axle Overhaul that i think you'll find very informative. Once again, welcome to the group. Hope you not only learn from us but teach us as well. Ken
I think you will need to support the truck on jackstands, unbolt the ball collar on the back of trans and slide the bell backwards to expose the u-joint. Unbolt it. Then roll to the back of the truck and remove diff. rear cover. There will be a screw in pin that locks a spacer block between the spider gears. Remove it and then the spacer block. Spin the spider gears out. Now you should be able to push axles in to have room to remove big c clips that lock them in place. Once the clips are removed, axles should pull out either completely or at least far enough to allow the carrier assembly with driveshaft to be removed once all of the front nuts are removed. I gather that you are getting the idea that in order to chance the one gasket you are after, you will be changing several gaskets throughout. Good Luck but first thing I would do is pick up a service manual.
To start first thing is to order a Rear Axle Overhaul Manual from CP Part #05-711 Page #4 Best $6.99 you'll spend on this project. Greg_H is correct. But be very careful when removing the axles nice & slow on the removal keep level so as not to cut one of the 2 axle seals. Do not want to fix one leak and then start another leak or two. Make sure you do not touch any of the 3 tapered screws on the housing will cause issues with the pinion. Just pull it forward towards the front of the truck just enough to gain clearance to get the old gasket what's left off and the surface area cleaned then the new gasket put on. Best to replace the outer axle seals if the others are older ones. Also clean the rear axle housing & back cover good then apply some sealer to the bolt treads. Also do not forget the drain plug has a sealing cooper ring that should be replaced. If yours are worn get a new plug from CP Part #93-225 Page #77 comes with a new gasket. Add good quality axle fluid to her then I normally like to spin the wheels by hand to get the fluid moved around and allow some oil to move back down the axle tubes. Start her up then run it slowly to heat things up. Retest for fluid leaks.
Also back to the start. If you are leaking a bunch with all retainer nuts tight may need to use 2 gaskets to seal that front housing up. Also replace the front driveshaft ball gaskets & seals while it is all apart will save on your next leak area.
OK, I think we've established that this is not an easy fix. So while you're doing all of the above, think about this. Replace bearings, seals, maybe put a 3.55 to 1 r&p set in it. I think it would be money well spent. But then again, I've never had a problem spending someone else's money!
Get thought Ken !! Patrick sells nice kits with all the parts needed. I have done this job is not a Big Deal just takes some time. Really depends on the condition of the rear/drive shaft you are working with. Also just needs to be clean with the new gaskets.
Hey guys, thanks for the advice. It really helps having all you knowledgeable steel-belted gear jockeys around to help me with this stuff. This truck runs great, all stock, just trying to eliminate all her leaks and this is the last chin-scratcher. If I have to remove the U-joint, torque-in-tube shaft, rear cover and all its guts in there to replace this gasket, I am going to leave it alone. This much work is scary for me as i have never worked with diff's. The ten-bolt gasket on the rear cover matches the one on the other side right? Maybe if I coat the seam with gasket sealer around the whole after I clean up real good and get all the oil and grease off, this will stop the leak. I was also thinking I could just push up the cover that meets the torque tube a half inch after taking out the ten bolts, get a wire wheel and clean up all the crude in the seam, make a cut in the top of the gasket and slip it on like a C-clip. Ok, I am done ramblin... Thanks alot everyone, you are abig help! ~Ryan
Don't try working a new gasket in like that will be a mess. It is not actually that bad a job just plan on a weekend. I would suggest get the book first or if you like send me a address and I will be more then glad to send you some photo copies of mine. Once you see the photos will elimate your hesitation towards this deal. Even after resealing mine still has a very slight leakage on the back cover lower side. That is what my little drain pan is for.
