Son was working on the truck, ended up shorting (or jumping depending on your term) between the two posts on the starter.. truck won't start now, no power to fuse panel.. anyone know if EZwiring has a fuseable link that would keep the fuse panel/block from seeing any power? Testing different accessories (lights, radio, etc). no power to any of them so figure it has to be a main fuse somewhere.. Thanks! **update** determined power to the fuse panel existed, but seemed like it was not enough.. example.. would push the horn button but would only cause the relay to trigger but not the horn... Found that if i disconnected the battery positive and re-connected all accessories worked (lights, electric fan, etc). as soon as i go to start the truck, it clicks but doesn't fire.. then the rest of the accessories don't work until i disconnect/re-connect the positive terminal of the battery again.. solenoid issue maybe?
If the power doesn't flow that's called and "OPEN circuit" . First thing to do is follow the sound of the click ~ I often find wet and corroded battery clamps will -barely- pass current until they don't and will usually make a single click sound when the circuit goes open . Easy to fix, remove battery and cable from the truck and wash with soap then with a mixture of baking soda and water until they stop fizzing ~ this may take more than one cleaning . SAFETY WARNING ! : batteries contain sulfuric acid and can EXPLODE if you get the baking soda and water mix inside them so be *VERY* careful ! .
No information so I'm going to GUESS it has a 216 or 235 engine with a stomp starter. ALL (as in EVERYTHING) this needs is a positive battery cable to the starter post and a negative to the engine/starter. Reverse if a GMC (positive ground). If the starter turns the engine over with this bare essentials set up then it is checking and cleaning of all connections time. If it doesn't then it's a cable or battery problem. If it has the moronic factory set up of short ground cable from battery negative terminal to frame and then a second from frame to engine I'd start there.
Personally I always prefer to connect the battery ground strap / cable to the tranny or engine, this guarantees better cranking cold or hot and it improves the charge rate reaching the battery too . Never use less than a 2 gauge battery cable and if it's still six vols, use 0 or )) gauge, you'll notice the difference immediately . If any battery clamps are the replacement bolt on types, they're crap , replace the entire cable now, measure it before you order it, no partshaus still stocks 1, 0 or 00 gauge cables . The catalog listing will always be too short .
