has anyone just switched a 65-66 C10 over to the newer spade type fuse block without buying a complete wiring kit such as Painless wiring? I have upgraded several things on my truck and intend to do more such as electric windows and locks. I already have ac and back up lights added. Any suggestions? thanks Raking
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spade type fuse block
- Thread starter raking
- Start date
I tried to help my friend do this with his '66, after he received a late-model fuse block for free. He also, had a lot of modern additions (A/C, stereo, air ride controller, electric fans/water pump, etc.). And, after two weekends, we both got fed up and he purchased a harness. After the new harness arrived, it was all wired and running in less than two days. I would recommend a new harness, especially if you plan on adding additional electrical amenities.
dvalentine
Charter Member
How can you not agree with that !! ??
Even if you did try, you would still have 45 year old wires running everywhere whose conductivity was on it's last legs.
It will take a lot less time to rewire the truck with a kit than to try and retrofit a new fuse block into the old wiring. You will also become very familiar with the trucks wiring system by doing it.. Win Win !!
dv
62 short step
Member
I agree! It was much easier to rewire the hole truck.
drabo
Member
I redid my wiring about 8 years ago. The electrical system is very simple if you can read and understand a wiring diagram. For alot of it I replaced the wiring wire by wire and one wire at a time. The harnesses I just unplugged and redid them on a bench. Under the dash is the hardest area to do. When I redid it I aslo replaced with the next size up wire. It was not nessecary but my lights are brighter and it starts better. If you do go this route buy as many diffrent colors as you can. Stick with the color code in your manual as best as possible. Some of the striped wire is harder to find. If you change the color wire, mark it on your wiring diagram (you'll be glad you did in the future).
Use the right male and female connectors for your harness. Our host sells them, other than that good luck finding them at Autozone. I did see them on a stand of electrical pieces and parts so I bought a bunch of them. To keep it somewhat factory looking I wrapped the harnesses in Black Scotch #33 vinal electrical tape. The cheap stuff does not work as well nor does it streach very good. You can also just use wire loom.
For the battery cable I used #4 or #2 welding cable. They do sell it in red and black. Just like the rest of the wiring I went over kill but while I was stationed in Alaska she would fire up in -20 no problem.
After you do this, then consider replacing the fuse block. Unless the fuse holders are loose or rusty there isn't a real need to change it out. The only real diffrance between the glass cartrige fuse and the spade fuse is the spade is easier to change.
Use the right male and female connectors for your harness. Our host sells them, other than that good luck finding them at Autozone. I did see them on a stand of electrical pieces and parts so I bought a bunch of them. To keep it somewhat factory looking I wrapped the harnesses in Black Scotch #33 vinal electrical tape. The cheap stuff does not work as well nor does it streach very good. You can also just use wire loom.
For the battery cable I used #4 or #2 welding cable. They do sell it in red and black. Just like the rest of the wiring I went over kill but while I was stationed in Alaska she would fire up in -20 no problem.
After you do this, then consider replacing the fuse block. Unless the fuse holders are loose or rusty there isn't a real need to change it out. The only real diffrance between the glass cartrige fuse and the spade fuse is the spade is easier to change.