So new fuel pump, same problem. The 228 starts and idles fine. It will even put up with mini revs. However~ To accelerate, the higher the RPMs climb, the more the misses show up until it sounds like it's about to fall flat on its face. I posted this in my "Only way is up" thread, but thought I'd separate it out on its own. The timing is where it's supposed to be, the plugs are gaped at the required (as per Nate) gap. I did remove the distributor to put the new vacuum advance on it. (which works great) I'm wondering if maybe I got the firing order 180 degrees out. Could it still be timed it that way? So close to posting that video of me going down the road, but I am not taking it out until it acts like it's ready. As always, thanks for any advice.
Check my post in the other thread Paul. No way the engine will run with the distributor 180 degrees out. All plugs would be firing on the end of the exhaust stroke with very little gas/air in the cylinder and both intake and exhaust valves slightly open. Doesn't mean the plug wires are all on the proper plugs. Find where #1 is on the distributor, then use Nate's dirty-old-man reminder and insure the other five are where they should be. Starting at #1 and continuing clockwise (I'd bet Ken's life on clockwise, but not mine without looking) the order should be 1-5-3-6-2-4.
As long as 1 is at the radiator and 4 is at the firewall, that's what I have. The only plug that looked just a tad different, in a slightly oily sort of way was was #2 cylinder. Thanks again, Bill.
Call me blonde, but I would assume from this that #1 is at the radiator end, the next is 5, then 3, then 6, then 2, then last is 4. If they don't go like that, I think we found the problem.
At the spark plugs: #1 is at the radiator end of the engine. #2 is next to #1 #3 is next to #2 and just forward of the coil. #4 is just to the rear of the coil. #5 is next to #4 #6 is rear most, next to the firewall. At the distributor cap: #1 is probably nearest 12 o'clock when you are bending over the passenger's side fender looking down at the cap, at least it is on mine. This could vary, but find YOUR #1 (don't move it) and don't worry about where mine is. You say you've timed the engine so wherever it is is right. #5 is next going clockwise (yes, Ken can live - I checked mine) #3 is next going clockwise #6 is next going clockwise #2 is next going clockwise #4 is next going clockwise Now go start it and drive it like you stole it.
Holly Molly!!! Yes sir, I am on it!!! I was thinking the plugs were to be in the same order as the distributor!
I stood to where I could see the dizzy to see how well it advances with RPM. Before I was just looking at the top of the wires over the valve cover. Standing at the front of the truck, I see the dizzy move with RPMs, but it seems to hesitate before advancing. I'm not sure what is normal. Thanks for the idea's, Bill!
Get a plastic "T" (available at FLAPS) and a foot of rubber fuel line to plumb your newly found fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line. When you are ready to test give me a call. You know the number. If we don't find a problem there I'll teach you how to use your newly found compression tester. You'll need the tester, a spark plug removing tool, something to squirt oil with, a pencil and some paper, a way to prop the throttle open, a fully charged truck battery and a helper.
Speaking of fuel~ You said you had the old fuel pump laying around there that you rebuilt? Could you tell me if this looks about like what came out of yours? Thanks! The tape hides it, but the arm is straight. And no... I'm not fixing to grill it up.
And the vacuum gauage says "late ignition timing" It reads 16" So to solve the late ignition timing problem, I should... ? Thanks!
Mine said the same. Once I had everything else sorted I adjusted the octane selector to about half way from 0 to A and the vacuum went up to 18 inches. This made for a slight increase in performance, but is not a fix for your basic poor running. I won't be able to get to my spare fuel pump for a few days.
Idles fine and will rev a little bit---wiring is right. Culprit is either fuel supply or coil saturation. Triple check the point gap and if in doubt set a bit tighter, 0.014, to be sure and get enough coil saturation time. Don't leave like this forever. If this doesn't work it's probably fuel supply. To check this get an old oil bottle out of the trash can at a nearby gas station and drill a small hole in the lid, 3/32 or maybe 1/8. Fill halfway with gas and PRACTICE setting on fire. Squeeze a little gas out and then light like a candle--then blow out like a candle. Why all this; because many have been burned or set their shop on fire when a carb backfires and sets the priming bottle on fire when in reality it's harmless but as soon as it lights they throw the bottle across the room. Lesson over. With the air cleaner off and using the carb bellcrank to control, rev the engine till it starts it's act. At that point squirt some fuel from the bottle into the carb and see if it revs as it should. A little practice with gas stream size vs revs and you can run one smooth as silk. If neither approach cures the problem and you now KNOW it's not a fuel supply problem then individual ignition parts need checked out; points, condenser, and especially coil. On a six I've never seen it but on V8's that have been revved high for long stretches completely worn out valves springs will cause this. Having almost no lash between rocker and valve could also be a problem but that is a long shot.
Thanks, Evan! I was talking with Bill and decided to check the intake system from the carb down to see if there are any leaks, as I did remove and replace everything when I painted the engine. I will also re recheck the points as I have not done that. Believe me, gutting the distributor and going with a pertronix system/coil is something I will do in a heart beat if need be. I just really, really, really, really, REALLY want to drive this truck now!!! All the time and effort and the thing holding me back is something simple, I'm sure. Once I get it rolling, I can find all those other problems that won't show up just sitting still going zoom, zoom. The 4th of July car show is right around the corner...
BTW, I just happen to have a 1 quart oil bottle left over from the transmission/rear end oil changing that I did. It just happens to have a hole about that size in the tip of it. I just need to go get some more gas in my 2 gallon gas can since I put all the gas for my mower in the truck. On a positive note, I believe the gas gauge is working like it should. YAY! So question~ What if the extra fuel does cure its ills? I am still not sold on the fuel pump I got being the right one. Napa shows the same pump, but it doesn't say what size engine. I don't have the original one because I didn't listen to "never throw anything away" Nate! Lesson learned, I guess! If I had the one with the glass bowl, (original) I could find out real quick if the arm was the same. Live and learn~
