Spring U-bolt torque

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by rickh, Feb 21, 2006.

  1. rickh

    rickh Member

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    Jan 1, 2000
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    Greetings Forum, Have installed a 3" drop front axle on my ol' 53 3100 and am putting in the front disc brakes whilst apart. I need the proper torque for the U-Bolts that secure the axle to the springs.
    I know Nate, the shop manual would be helpful, but the motor, trans and rear are no longer stock.
    I really enjoy reading the posts and appreciate the added knowledge and sometime humor.
    Thanks fellas,
    rick
     
  2. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    Sorry I cannot help you here , I just use the longest flex handle I have & a 6 point socket and brace my feet against the inside of the brake plate then I pull for all I'm worth......

    I've never had a spring shackle nut come loose although I've certainly found more than a few that way...

    FWIW : these rigs were built with air impact guns and I've found many over the years that had been tighened -so- tight , the threads on the u-bolt were slightly smooshed requiring replacement .

    This means you've gotta get it _really_ tight ~ no kidding .

    -Nate
     
  3. mikesters1950

    mikesters1950 Member

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    Rick, looking through my shop manual, all it says is to install lock washers, and tighten securely. On mine I did as Nate, I used a long 1/2 ratchet, and tightened it down. If you are worried, check it again after putting some mileage on it.
    P.S. I would love some more info or pictures of the axle. I have already intalled monoleaf springs, and would like to go lower. I have been advised there may be drag link problems using both springs and axle. Some installed pics would be a big help to visualize potential problem areas. Hope this helps......Mike
     
  4. rickh

    rickh Member

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    Thanks Nate and Mike for your reply. Yes these were a -itch to get off but are in good shape thread and otherwise. I figure 110 ft/lb is bout as far as I can pull with the working conditions. Then back it up with a second nut to hold the first.
    Not too concerned bout loostening up just wanted to do it right.
    Mike the axle is a 3 inch drop and the supplier does warn of bump steer if using the mono springs. The axle alone is not supposed to change steering geometry. If you do change to this axle you have to use their kingpins. (To my chargrin)x(
    Sorry dont have picts but it is a simple plug and play install, cept fer the kingpins.
    Thanks for the help,
    rick
     
  5. rickh

    rickh Member

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    RE:Toe-in Question

    Hi Again, Does anyone know what the factory toe-in is for the 3100? I just found out that a new tie rod must be used to clear the springs with the dropped axle. I know the local alignment shops just looked glassy eyed when asked about this. Thanks mucho.
    rick
    (It's a 53 btw)
     
  6. vwnate1

    vwnate1 Member

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    RE:Toe-in

    _VERY_ little ! .

    I use 0 to 1/16" toe in unless you want it to hunt .

    -Nate
     
  7. mikesters1950

    mikesters1950 Member

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    RE:Toe-in Question

    Rick, what is the new tie rod? Do they just want you to flip the install, or is it an aftermarket setup? I am curious because I used lowered springs, and upgraded to the 1 inch tie rod setup, and I was looking at the drop axle. Wondering if my setup is useable. Thanks for any info......Mike
     
  8. rickh

    rickh Member

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    RE:Toe-in Question

    Thanks Nate for the info...Mike, the tie-rod is the one you have.
    I had the old ball and socket type and the tech said it needed to be
    flipped over going over the springs. Will belive it when i see it.;-)
    Just wish they had been up-front when the axle was ordered. As is
    have to wait 7-10 days (shipping time). Still waiting for the new
    tie rod and will post results if anyone is interested.
    CU and Thanks again,
    rick
     

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