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Steering assembly questions

Zig

Zig

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Below is my old (and new) horn button retainer. I assume this has a spring that fits under it? (At least it looks that way in the shop manual.) Anyone know what I need to ask for for a replacement spring?

I further assume the big, rusty, spring next to them is the one that goes under the steering wheel? Both horn button retainers have a slot for a key, yet the shaft it fits over has no key, or slot for one. :confused:

The picture of the steering column going up through the firewall shows how off-centered it is when you bolt the steering box to the frame without bolting the column to the dash first. (It seems perfectly centered between the gages, however.) Would this be one of those "close enough at the factory" thing? (Cab IS square on frame.)

Thanks for any suggestions! I'd like to get this finished off, but can't do it (RIGHT) without your help!
 

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Don't ask, just do?

So while I was grilling some chicken I figured I'd go in and loosen the bolts on the steering box and try bolting the column support to the dash, first. (I just L-O-V-E getting my fingers up in there~ At least this is by "feel" and not by sight...)
Got that done, then bolted down the box. Shaft is now centered in opening.
Who knows~

Now I just need to figure out the horn button spring issue. Your help will be greatly appreciated!
 
Thanks, Bill

Bill Hanlon said:
This is from a 55-59 GMC Maintenance Manual, but it works exacly the same way Zig.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/gmc/5559mm/5559mm529.html

By the way, did you wash your hands after working on the truck or just smear the grease on the chicken?
Click to expand...

That looks pretty much like what my manual has. It doesn't mention what the big spring under the horn button retainer is. (6) According to that, it's the steering wheel. :eek:
The only two things I don't get are (1) why is the horn button retainer slotted for a key? Maybe the pre 50's had a key? If so, was it C, G or F? :rolleyes:
(2) How heavy a spring is it that goes under the retainer? (Better yet, who might sell one just for this application?)

As far as my hands? They pretty much burst into flames when I reached in to flip the chicken. Minor burns, however... :p

Little feet rocks! :cool:
 
Spring.

Our host have them springs and all the other parts aswell Zig.
The 1950 truck have the slott aswell but they used it in different models trucks and cars i`ll gues before that time with other spesifications. Important that you get it in the right position as it might turn when fastening the lock nut on top. I used a litle dash of locktite underneath the contact ass. number 5 wich helped to keep it place.

Zig said:
That looks pretty much like what my manual has. It doesn't mention what the big spring under the horn button retainer is. (6) According to that, it's the steering wheel. :eek:
The only two things I don't get are (1) why is the horn button retainer slotted for a key? Maybe the pre 50's had a key? If so, was it C, G or F? :rolleyes:
(2) How heavy a spring is it that goes under the retainer? (Better yet, who might sell one just for this application?)

As far as my hands? They pretty much burst into flames when I reached in to flip the chicken. Minor burns, however... :p

Little feet rocks! :cool:
Click to expand...
 
Looking great Zig!!! Do I need to listen soon for the sweet sound of a 228 firing up?
 
Spring~

Zig said:
Below is my old (and new) horn button retainer. I assume this has a spring that fits under it? (At least it looks that way in the shop manual.) Anyone know what I need to ask for for a replacement spring?

I further assume the big, rusty, spring next to them is the one that goes under the steering wheel? Both horn button retainers have a slot for a key, yet the shaft it fits over has no key, or slot for one. :confused:

The picture of the steering column going up through the firewall shows how off-centered it is when you bolt the steering box to the frame without bolting the column to the dash first. (It seems perfectly centered between the gages, however.) Would this be one of those "close enough at the factory" thing? (Cab IS square on frame.)

Thanks for any suggestions! I'd like to get this finished off, but can't do it (RIGHT) without your help!
Click to expand...

Okay~ even though it is about 1 1/2" long, and a pretty heavy duty spring, I am now wondering if the big rusty spring I have (Pictured first at the top of this thread...) goes behind the horn button connector. It fits perfectly inside the back of the connector and fits over the shaft, but MAN is it a ways out. I can compress it, but as I do, the spring kind of off-centers the horn button connector from the shaft. :confused:
 
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Scratch that idea~

I forgot I already tried that. When I compress it as far as I can, the threaded part of the shaft doesn't extend past the plate of the horn button connector.
Russ, you "How To" thread starts beyond this point.
DZ has what I need, so that's a bright spot!
 
Well~

Wolf said:
Looking great Zig!!! Do I need to listen soon for the sweet sound of a 228 firing up?
Click to expand...

First I need to rebuild or at least clean out my old carb. (It's been setting for sooo long without being used. :() Next, I need to get a new vacum advance, as my old one just ain't cutting it. After that, I'd like to change up the ignition. I also wouldn't mind a dual intake... ~sigh~

So, like the Chiefs, it may be a while before it's running...
 
Couldn't help it

So, I went back out and amazed myself at how well that old, rusty, ONE INCH spring fit into the backside of the horn button retainer. Fully compressed, it's about 3/8" thick.
I looked at how my wheel fit over the splined shaft. It actually is sticking up about a heavy 1/8" above the end of the splined shaft.
I don't think I'm seating it correctly.
Shouldn't the two surfaces be even? The back of the steering wheel shows the rim of the steering bearing I put in. When I push down on the horn relay, it hits nothing that I can hear or feel. This again leads me to believe the wheel isn't down far enough.

Comments?
 
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That big honkin' spring goes on the steering wheel shaft and then the steering wheel goes on, then the nut, (the one that holds the wheel on, not the one behind the wheel). You should have to push the wheel down to compress the spring a little while you start the big nut on. Hope this makes sense to you. If not, just ask.
 
Many thanks!

Bilbo said:
That big honkin' spring goes on the steering wheel shaft and then the steering wheel goes on, then the nut, (the one that holds the wheel on, not the one behind the wheel). You should have to push the wheel down to compress the spring a little while you start the big nut on. Hope this makes sense to you. If not, just ask.
Click to expand...

But how 'bout the spring that goes behind the horn button connector~ That's what I'm really wondering about... You know this nut is always loose! :D
 
The spring forces the upper shaft bearing into position. It seats it in the race. Push the wheel down while swearing at....I mean starting the shaft nut, then torque down the nut and hope for the best.
 
Thanks, Russ

ol' chebby said:
The spring forces the upper shaft bearing into position. It seats it in the race. Push the wheel down while swearing at....I mean starting the shaft nut, then torque down the nut and hope for the best.
Click to expand...

I have used the washer and nut to do just that. Twice. The wheel doesn't seem to want to go any further down.
The bearing is fully seated, but I was able to slip it in with just a "little" hand presure. I could pull the wheel back off and insert the spring just so it is as it's supposed to be. Guess I might need to, anyway.

The only other thing that came to mindas to why the wheel isn't seating is maybe I need to double up or tripple up the washers. Without checking, maybe the nut has gone as far as it can on the threads with just the one washer...

Thanks for your input everyone. When I get this figured out, I'll be sure to post some pictures. DeadZone has the spring for the horn button, so that will help.
 
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Okay~ Here's the deal. It helps to look closely at the pictures in the manual. The spring I couldn't find is for the bigger trucks, not mine. So I just bolted on the horn button connector and found, "Hey, how 'bout that! The darn thing is spring loaded!!! The connector has two layers of metal. A thick piece that holds it all in place, and then the thin, flexible steel on the backside that allows for contact of the horn relay button!"
Go figure.
Thanks for all the help/ideas, however!
 
Rack and Pinion

The truck I have has a rack and pinion for the power steering, it is a Crysler front end, what a deal, yea, I'm crying, anyway, it has gone out, anybody know where to find the number on this animal where I can order a new one, I will go with it for now, I know I need a chevy front end, but for now, I need this fixed,
 
Zig said:
Okay~ Here's the deal. It helps to look closely at the pictures in the manual. The spring I couldn't find is for the bigger trucks, not mine. So I just bolted on the horn button connector and found, "Hey, how 'bout that! The darn thing is spring loaded!!! The connector has two layers of metal. A thick piece that holds it all in place, and then the thin, flexible steel on the backside that allows for contact of the horn relay button!"
Go figure.
Thanks for all the help/ideas, however!
Click to expand...

Awesome! glad that you got it fixed. I haven't had mine apart. There are 2 spots that make the horn work;) I figured its an old work truck, that is the way they are supposed to be:D
 
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