Can anybody point me to some detailed instructions on how to replace the sector shaft seal? Can it be replaced with the sterring box in place? If I have to remove the steering box can it be done without removing the inner fender? So you suggest this as a do it yourself fix? I have a leak at the adjusting nut end and I thought that was the only one I had but the sector shaft seal is pouring now. Thanks, Bill
Hey Bill, go to www.chevy.tocmp.com and look in the shop manuals and it might help out. Otherwise, come back to us and we'll help you figure it out.
That repair can not be performed in the truck. You do need to move the inner fender skirt out of the way to gain access to mounting bolts. Main thing is once it is loose you need to move it upwards then outwards to gain the proper clearance to pull it out of the truck. Just take your time and talking to it seemed to work for me. Be careful with your words she is sensitive. If you have leakage at both areas together must likely will need the selector shaft bushing replaced also. That will in most cases require a press. Would not recommend hammering on the old steering housing can cause other issues. Also make sure you replace the housing side cover gasket on the lash adjustor side. Even if it looks ok will leak afterwards. I got my rebuild kit from CP Part#76-911 Page #66 came with everything needed including the bushings & also the main things good & clear instructions !! Good Luck take your time & remain calm All is Well ! All is Well ! Was actually a fun weekend project
54ChevTruck, In searching I found this quote from our guru, Nate, When you put the kit in your gearbox did you re center the steering box. Could you or Nate go into this in a little more detail? I am about to take care of that gigantic oil slick that is under my truck due to the sector shaft leak. Thanks, Gater
Centering The Steering Box It's quite simple : Disconnect the Pitman Drop Arm and attach a degree wheel to the steering wheel (NOTE : you cannot just count the spokes as you turn it !) turn the steering wheel as far as it'll go in one direction WARNING !!! If you spin it Willy-Nilly and bang into the internal stop , you'll wreck the steering box as the ball guide tubes are made of delicate sheet metal . Make note of the degress at the stop and turn it as far as it'll go in the other direction , write down the _total_ number of degress from stop to stop , divide by 1/2 and turn the steering wheel this far . it is now exectly dead center . Install the Pitman arm so it is pointing _straight_down_ and re-attach the drag link . Lastly , remove and re-center the steering wheel as needed , it'll be off in 90% of the old trucks out there . Remember : no one bothered to do this when your truck was new so even Grandpa's cherry 15,000 mile original truck will likely benefit from this simple steering " Tune Up " as it brings all the steering geometry into perfect alignment . Set toe - in to zero or 3/16" , your truck may wander or ' hunt ' @ zero but the steering effort will be like it has power steering . I hope this helps .
Centering The Steering Box It's quite simple : Disconnect the Pitman Drop Arm and attach a degree wheel to the steering wheel (NOTE : you cannot just count the spokes as you turn it !) turn the steering wheel as far as it'll go in one direction WARNING !!! If you spin it Willy-Nilly and bang into the internal stop , you'll wreck the steering box as the ball guide tubes are made of delicate sheet metal . Make note of the degress at the stop and turn it as far as it'll go in the other direction , write down the _total_ number of degress from stop to stop , divide by 1/2 and turn the steering wheel this far . it is now exectly dead center . Install the Pitman arm so it is pointing _straight_down_ and re-attach the drag link . Lastly , remove and re-center the steering wheel as needed , it'll be off in 90% of the old trucks out there . Remember : no one bothered to do this when your truck was new so even Grandpa's cherry 15,000 mile original truck will likely benefit from this simple steering " Tune Up " as it brings all the steering geometry into perfect alignment . Set toe - in to zero or 3/16" , your truck may wander or ' hunt ' @ zero but the steering effort will be like it has power steering . I hope this helps .
Thanks, Nate. Are there any tricks to removing the bushings in case I can't find a local machine shop that will tackle it? I know not to get wild with a BFH. Also, I didn't get the bushing that has the horn wire in it but I probably will. The steering shaft had a little wiggle in it when I removed the steering wheel. The shop manual shos some tools that you are suppose to use to remove all these bushings but I sure don't have any of them. Is there a trick to getting it out without killing the steering column? Gater
Broomstick to remove the upper mast jacket bearing (it's not a bushing) but unless it's well & truly worn out , just leave it be as a cheapo repop one may cause no more horn . threading the horn wire can be tricky , I use a thin flexible bit of fish wire run 1st. and wrapped 'round the bullet connector . I don't recommend taking the steering box all apart , I just replace the sector shaft seal and call it a day . the seal fits manual steering boxes in 1/2 ton trucks all the way up to 1970 model year so your dealer will have the top quality one for about $10.00 and prolly in stock even . If you take the box apart , you can split the bushing with a chisel and then it'll drive right out . heat the box and freeze the new bushing to facilitate easy installation . If you've taken the box apart , 1st. set the worm drag to about 10" drag using a fish scale attached to the outer edge of a steering wheel spoke with the sector adjustment _loose_ , then set the sector shaft to basically zero load , unless you replace the worm it'll prolly have some play when in dead center . I find it far easier and cheaper to buy a used , takeout steering box from a hot rodder as NO ONE ever wants them so $25.00 or so will do the trick . You cannot test a used one on the ground so beware of paying too much without a money back gaurantee . OIL in the steering box , never , _EVER_ grease ! . if you have a rattly old work truck like me , you can put a tiny funnel in the filler hole and invert a can of Bahrdall or STP and let that gooey lube percolate into the box , it'll lube it great and not drip out so fast... Oil level should be right up to the bottom of the filler hole and -DO- rememder to pull the plug and check it occasionally ! . I just re-fill my steering box every month or two , it works great and some day (maybe) I'll take the new GM in the box seal out of my glovebox and install it...
Okay, I have the steering box all apart and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be to get the column out. Now I have to replace the bushings. It looks like I will have to shorten the one in the cover since it is shorter and the kit has two that are the same length. Anyway, I need a little more info on this, Nate. I am not too well versed so please type slowly so I can understand. What does it mean 10" and sector adjustment loose? Thanks, Nate, Gater
O.K. , it's been awhile since I've done a Saginaw steering box and my truck isn't here to ensure I'm talking about the right one but ; The big long shaft that holds the steering wheel has a worm on the business end of it , right ? it sits in a movable lower bushing with a adjuster and locknut , you assemble the box and put some lube in it , leave the adjuster on _top_ of the box loose and attach a fishing scale that reads in ounces or inches of weight to one of the steering wheel spokes at the outer rim and adjust that lower bearing untill the fishing scale reads about 10 Oz. of weight on it when you use it to pull the steering wheel by 90° . it is a very delicate adjustment , you want zero free play then a tiny bit of load on it , not too much to cause stiff steering but enough so it won't get loose as it heats up and / or wears.... Then , you can adjust the sector shaft to basically zero lash , DO NOT crank down the sector shafe adjustment trying to make a worn out worm have no play ! about 1/2 of the steering boxes out there have a loose spot in the dead center that won't go away untill you replace the worm . I adjust the sector shaft by centering the steering box and then holding my BIG , long screwdriver between two fingers and gently turning it whilst I rock the steering wheel back and forth a bit , the adjuster nut will creep a little bit each time you reverse direction untill it feels ' right ' . Be aware I had a buddy who ignored my warning and cranked the sector adjuster down really tight on his nice 1941 3100 series pickup and then had the steering box fail catastrophically as he was making a 90° turn the following week........ if the steering won't unwind all by itself when you release the steering wheel after a turn , it's TOO TIGHT ! These boxes don't like much pre-load ! . I hope this helped....
Nate, I appreciate the detail. I don't like to guess on things that, if I do them wrong, could end up like your buddy did. With your knowledge you should consider writing a manual on these old trucks. I am sure a lot of folks would appreciate a manual written in conversational tone and your wit. Thanks again, Bill
I'm far to dumb to be writing any books Lucky for my buddy , he was making a right turn off the Blvd. and so just jumped the curb ("kerb" for Brit) and was able to get it stopped before he knocked down the brick wall surrounding the Catholic Girl's school there... We just pitched out the box and replaced it with another from Tony's Truck Wrecking , yes , the very same one that's still down on Peck Road.... Staaring boxes are usually all set up the same , long shaft first then set the sector lash.... In the case if prewar Ford boxes (like Model 'A') you can adjust the side plate to ensure proper mesh too.... Steeringboxes , like differentials , are one of those things I feel you need to do a lot of to ensure quality work and I don't like either of them , easier to get a takeout from a hot rod or that -totally- rusted away junker in the bottom of a junkpit that only has 40,000 miles on it .
There you go- Gater, I'm going to redo things on the front end of my truck, and your thread has been quite the experience! I'm telling you- Between Nate's knowledge and Ken's incredible quick response web page addresses, -we score! And please- I surely don't mean to slight any of the other very knowledgable, been there- done that people who contribute a wealth of info here. It's just that these two seem to always impress me with their ability to get the info to use quickly, and in GREAT detail! Two thumbs up guys! How many others did you help other than me and Gater?
Zig, there is a method to my madness! Every question I see on this forum I try to have some kind of input. It's not because i'm a self-professed know-it-all, but a sly learner. I know if I post some BS answer, Nate will bust my chops and give everybody a rock solid answer to the question at hand. When I took my project on last year, I quickly learned that I don't know Jack $hit even though i thought i did. The internet is a marvelous tool, but without guys like Nate, man would we been up that certain creek without the certain propulsion device!
Nonetheless! My bookmarks and pages of print from this site in my '52 rebuild book are beyond where I EVER thought they'd be. I don't have anymore time than to check the Chiefs page, my e-mail and then here. I don't have time to do more than that, and I'm NOT a fast reader- so the time you spend getting these sites and Nate spends coming to our rescue, it worth its weight in gold. I'm just glad you, Nate, and all the others that chip in there comments believe in sharing- how else would I EVER get my truck rebuilt? I'm smart, but this stuff I read helps me to realize how much I have to learn.
Thanks for including me Nate, your story just made no sense at all till you included a translation, Steering boxes, hey if a brit can do it anyone can, just take your time and never overtighten anything, if it goes tight its wrong! back up and try again, re-built mine in a few hours with a couple of cold ones and some chill out music on cd (tip, dont play fast,dance,rock when doing intricate work) set aside a fair bit ouf time when doing jobs like this, never try and rush it. ________ Oregon Medical Marijuana Dispensary
Nate and all, So, starting with a newly rebuilt steering gear box would you go with straight STP oil treatment or something else? Thanks, Gater BTW, had a local machine shop push out old bushings and cut down the long one for the cover and push them back in. They used a lathe to cut the bushing to fit and it looks like they honed the bushing on the cover so that the sector shaft would fit properly. 2 hours = $70. I am happy.
Steering Box Lube Well me , I'd use 90 gear oil and then , if it all ran out I'd try something else like the hard to find Pennrite steering box lubricant , it comes in tubes . Any _oil_ with an EP rating and wieght of 90 or greater is going to work . If you like the smell of STP or Bardahl and you have the rest of your life for it to ever so slowly dribble into the steering gear , why have at it old son Just remember : NO GREASE ! .
