I've used the "Search" button and only came up with two appropriate discussions about repairing steering wheels. 1953 Chevy AD restore from JayZ63 using a generic two part epoxy and do-it-yourselfer Nate farmed his out to someone else. My steering wheel has small cracks (none over 1/8" wide) at all the "intersections", spokes to outer ring and spokes to hub. I'd just live with those, but the steering wheel also needs painting. I left my truck outside with the windows open, but under cover, the last 2 days. When my truck is exposed to very damp weather (especially like it has been in the Houston area for over a month now) the "rubber" of the steering comes off on my hands. Sticky, nasty, black stuff. The back side of the steering wheel has practically no paint on it exposing the rubber. The shift knob appears to be made from the same material and acts the same way. As long as it isn't cool and humid things are OK. Anyone have current experience with Eastwood's kit? Any reason it is any better than just buying epoxy? I've also heard of a product called Q Bond that sounds good to me, but I am open to suggestions. And what should I paint it (and the shift knob, which looks perfect) with after I fix the cracks? I'd appreciate 1st person knowledge.
I didn't buy the kit, just ordered the epoxy and bought the rattle cans at Home Depot (I think). I did the restoration last fall following the advice at this site. Steering wheel repair It came out pretty well although I have no idea how well it will weather as my truck is still in pieces. It feels pretty good though when I hold it and go "Vroom, vroom." It did get pretty tiring sanding down the epoxy as the epoxy is harder than the rubber so one has to be fairly careful just how much sanding one does where. There is also nothing like putting on the primer to show where you missed a crack or didn't quite sand enough.
Hi Bill, Yep, Rust-Oleum self-etching primer followed by Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy paint. It seemed to take a while to cure so don't plan on driving for a number of days. I had an amusing time bringing my steering wheel back from Oregon (where my truck lives in pieces) to Maryland (where I live for now and try and work on some of the portable pieces). The wheel put my checked luggage over the weight limit so I had to take it carry-on. After I had stowed everything I sat down and the guy next to me says "54 Chevy, right?" Apparently we are everywhere. Steve
Maybe a related point of interest.. for you AD era (pre-54) guys who want a STOCK blinker system, use the 54 steering wheel then get the stock blinker system, tap a few holes in the column and the stock blinker setup and everything will look just like it belongs there. Nice Job Steve!
What is the difference between the 54 steering wheel and the one on my 52, Deve? Is it more than mounting a cancel cam to the back side? Cancel cams (same from 54 through 59) and the whole cup with turn signal mechanism and 6 wire switch is available from our host for 54-56 with flat steering wheels. And what do you need to tap holes for? I have some old 57 GMC turn signal parts (cup, mechanism, switch) as well as a 57 steering wheel. I don't remember if I have a cancel cam or not. Maybe I'll try to mock up these old parts just to see if it might work. I know the 57 parts (dished instead of flat steering wheel) would not be the answer, but might be useful for test fitting. By the way, Bilbo has offered to rent me (good rates for a guy like me) his spare steering wheel while I work on mine. This should keep me from re-installing mine before the paint has time to cure.
The pre-1954 wheels are not made for the backing plate that houses the blinker system. See pics. It is not that difficult to adapt the blinker system from a 1954 but you need all the parts (pictured) and a 54 wheel because of the differences. I will always be adding a different address for you to see the pictures because it's how I manage the gazillion pics I take of these trucks. I also added an instruction on how someone did the repairs. I do not have my steering column handy but later in the week I may pull it out and get some pics of the mast differences. Frame-Up Restoration Pic Gallery
Looks like I'd have to find a 54-56 steering wheel to make it work. Is the outside diameter of the 54 and newer steering column the same 1 3/4" as my 52? They use the same mast bearing from 47 thru 59.
Yes. They are the same. I will get some pics later this week of the two masts so we can see the comparison.
I added some pics for the Steering Column differences between 47-53 and 54/55 1st. I am not a TF guy so maybe it goes further but not sure. There are two modifications that need to be made to the old style column. One is a rather large one inch wide by 15/16" hole that is 1 inch down from the end of the mast and exactly opposite of the two threaded holes for the column shifter. Measure to the middle of the two holes that are already there, then opposite of that is the center of the large hole at the placement above. They are not exactly opposite each other top to bottom but they are side to side. Then, an inch and 3/8 down from the mast end is a notch. It is just a cut out, then raised so as to stop the housing from moving. That same thing could be accomplished with a modified bolt head. (drilling and tapping would be easier than trying to simulate that notch). If anyone wants further pics, let me know. Meanwhile, everything I took today to show this is here: Frame-Up Restoration Pic Gallery
Glad you asked? I cleaned mine up real good and painted it with Rustoleum. Right over the cracks and everything.
