I can't get it loose so if anyone out there has a 235 exhaust manifold for sale cheap let me know. I posted in the parts wanted but thought I'd ask anyway.
Soak it with PB Blaster. Keep soaking it. Every time you walk by it, soak it. Then start wiggling it little by little and keep soaking it. I have freed up 3 of them this way. When it begins working, keep oiling it and working it full range and it will be free and smooth.
Heat Riser Solvent Is wonderful stuff ! it's sold via Chrysler & Jeep dealers , I don't have the P/N handy but I've posted it in the past.... it's a penetrant mixed with graphite in a stubby Foo-Foo can , snorkel attaches , it works great in key locks too ! . In any case , you need some real penetrant not WD40 crap ~ as Russ said , spray it daily on both ends of the shaft and give it a *gentle* tap with a small hammer , this shocks the metal and helps it to wick in and dissolve the rust faster & better . DO NOT try to force it ! you'll just snap the shaft off & ruin it .
Thanks Nate - now you tell me - I already trashed one manifold so I'll do it your way and ol'chebby's and see if I can find that foo foo can graphite stuff.
Need a Foo-Foo Can NAte, I searched all your posts for the penetrant and couldn't find the name of the Foo-Foo graphite stuff. Got any idea on the name or source. There's a Chrysler dealer in the next town over and I could check there on my next trip to the big city. I'll try the PB Blaster till then.
Goggle it I often forget I have the power of the universe at my fingertips when relying on the forum for information. Thanks for the reminder
We have a restored combination 235 intake/exhaust . Complete with the carb insulator, exhaust flange,vacuum fitting & working heat riser valve..... ready to mount Although the price of the part may be reasonable..... This set up will work for you but... you stipulated "cheap" in your requirements & this 40 lb. hunk of iron won't be cheap to ship clear across the country.
Thanks, Charles. I'll have to give the cheapest solution a try! I still have to remove the back end and that might help with those big U-bolts.
dual intake for a 228? I sent you a PM a few days back and haven't heard. Do you have any dual intakes for a 228? TIA
Sweet ! Craig ; Maybe you could ship your old one to Joe and get a core refund ? I'm just thinking outside the box a bit here , that one looks very nice indeed . When you take it off , look at the intake surfaces , there's supposed to be sheet metal alignment rings in each of the three ports , they re often gone missing and are *very* important to have in place ! they're super cheap from any old truck partshaus . The penetrant / graphite stuff from any Chrysler / Jeep Dealer is MoPar P/N 04318039AC , EVERYONE on this list should trot right out & buy a can , it'll prevent the heat riser from EVER seizing , use it in all your key locks too . I hope this helps .
DZT, thats a nice looking setup. I know what you mean about the shipping costs. I guess I'll see if I can get the other riser to work and if not keep looking for just the exhaust part of the manifold. My intake is in good shape so that's probably the most cost effective solution for me. Thanks for the offer though.
For those that have engine related parts that will not be painted such as a heat riser, put them in new or used brake fluid, it may take a few days but the rust will be gone and the riser freed up.
Although it has been a while, I have used automatic transmission fluid as a cheap and plentiful penetrating oil. The graphite sounds like a good idea since it will likely provide a dry lube that will last.
