O.K. , this should be an easy Q. : do I need washers here ? . I bought the new Mr Gasket T.C. bolt kit , there are no washers and the T.C. has oval shaped holes in it so no washer makes me nervous . the DPM had mis matched random hardware with no washers and everything was fine but I like to know . Please advise . TIA ,
B&M Torque Converter Installation Instructions Nate, I dug out the Installation Instructions for the B&M Torque Converter I used on my TH350 equipped Model A. The instructions state: Step 21. Install three flexplate to converter nuts and bolts as required. If your flexplate has slotted holes rather than round holes, put a washer under the head of the bolt.
Thank you john ! As I wrote that help request , I though " I know who'll have the straight skinny on this " . Interestingly , IIRC the torque converter holes are the oval ones , the flex plate isn't . Stock parts FWIW , I'll put a flat washer underneath the nuts then , they're on the T.S. side of things . Maybe I'll be able to get the tranny mounted this weekend , I still need to drag it out , un bag it and do a thorough cleaning first . Thanx again ! .
Nate, The space is kind of tight so I use "flare" head bolts and nuts. You know, the ones that have a built on washer and can be found with "teeth" on the bolt head and/ or nut that is self locking. Very common on body panel bolts and radiator mount bolts.
Thank you ! As I'd wondered about using flare nuts . I have these ' special ' TC nuts & bolts , I think I'll hunt for the flare nuts at least . Give me a few dayze on this , O.K. ? . Not feeling my oats right now .
More help ! I mated the TH350 tranny to the engine to - day and the torque converter spun freely like I remembered it should , the new bolt & nut kit came with self locking nuts and all the holes are round so no washers . Here's my worry : it's been decades since I fiddled with Slush boxes and I seem to recall the T.C. should be easily moved up to touch the flex plate before you install the bolts & nuts . mine had a 1/8" ~ 1/4" gap that steadfastly refused to close until I tightened up each bolt & nut ~ even after two were snugged up the third one had the gap , it didn't close until I snugged it up , then I went 'round and final tightened each one . I am concerned because back in the day , cracked flex plates were common so I wonder : did I miss something ? I don't want to have pre loaded it and caused it to crack soon after I get it back in the truck .. Or is this normal and O.K. ? . Please elucidate as I'm keen to connect the kick down cable and filler tube etc.... TIA , Oh yes ~ I did take some pix and will post them up in my 250 i6 engine thread when I get to a decent 'puter ~ this one is one I assembled out of junk a few years ago and it's really s l o w......... Imagine that ~ a total Luddite like me , was able to cobble up a 'puter out of random discarded parts , it worked really well for the first few years too but I think is now simply too old & slow .
