I could not get the distributor/vacuum oval connector screw/bolt unfroze to reset the ignition timing, so I took out the distributor from the engine and put in a new screw/bolt. Prior to removing, my coil wire connection on the outside of the distributor was at 5:00. When I put the distributor back in, the engine would not start, so I adjusted the distributor as it was being cranked and it started with the coil wire connection at 3:00. I am curious at what I did wrong? I cleaned the flywheel and marked all descript items with a blue pen and then set the timing with a timing gun (afterward the distributor screw/bolt from the coil was set at 3:00). The pickup runs fine, but again, what did I do when I pulled out the distributor from the engine and then put it back in? Also, the timing mark was a small triangle on the flywheel, where the directions stated a small ball would be seen. The pickup (and manual) is a 1953, but the motor is a 1960 235cu. Comments? Also, in setting the timing, the manual states to set the octane adjuster (on the distributor) to zero. The octane adjuster is the knob on the side of the distributor. When setting the timing with the gun, I screwed the octane adjuster in and out and it seemed to have to effect on the timing, as viewed on the triangle to arrow (in flywheel window), relationship. What do I do with the octane adjuster when setting the timing and also under normal operations? I appreciate the advice. KentC
Did you remove the plug wires from the distributor cap? If so, you could have put them back on one position off. That would be about the right distance to move from 3 to 5 o'clock.
No, the plug wires were not removed, just the cap lifted off and held out of the way. And there is only one way the rotor cap goes on. I thought maybe I was 180 degrees off, so I pulled the distributor again and did the 180, then as it was cranked it backfired out the carburator - so I had it right the 1st time. Inside the engine I stuck a long screwdriver down the distributor hole and the part the distributor end goes into I moved with the screwdriver back 60 degrees thinking this would fix my error and it did some, but not all (fix the error). The internal engineering design/mechanism was pretty wierd (to me, being able to back off with a screwdriver), I could not figure where I went wrong, so here I am asking. There must be a simple answer, but simple as it may be I cannot figure it out, as I was careful performing the distributor removal procedure - from square one.
Are you sure your "octane adjuster" isn't the grease cup. This was filled with a very heavy grease and you gave it a 1/4 turn at each tune up to lube the distributer shaft. The cup is about as big around as a nickel and has knurled notches around its top edge. As far as your rotor position in your distributer, it is very unusual to pull a distributer and have it drop right back in the same position. I think the cam gear "kicks" the distributer gear as they dissengage just enough to not align with the oil pump. You can turn the oil pump with a long screwdriver to align it or you can put the rotor in the right position and turn the engine until the distributer shaft drops into the slot in the pump shaft. I don't know sitting here at home how many teeth are on a on a 235 distributer gear but just say 10. That means if you have to move one notch to have it engage the oil pump shaft your rotor would be off 36 degrees.
You are correct, it was my grease cup. I looked at the manual instructions, saw the nickle looking thing and assumed it was some device that adjusted the timing to reflect the type of gas being burned - ie the "octane adjuster" mentioned in the manual. What/where is the octane adjuster and its purpose? So you are saying that when I put the distributor back in, it was not perfectly in the same position, thus the change from 5 to 3:00? If the vehicle runs good and I have since set the timing (as previously explained), then I should not have to worry about what I have worried about - from your understanding of what I did? Also, would you say that my triangle on the flywheel is the same as the BB in the instructions? I appreciate the help. KentC
Sure Kent, you can time the engine from any of the six positions on the cap--as long as the spark plug wires will reach. When I used to have a general repair shop I would hook a timing light up on some car that was running pretty good and not see a timing mark in sight, then realize the wire I was on was not #1 because someone had moved the wires from the usual position. It doesn't hurt a thing except the mechanics feelings for looking so dumb. There used to be a distributer called a Grant Flamethrower that you just dropped into the engine in any position, loosened a set screw on the point cam and turned it so the points were just breaking open on the cylinder in the firing position, retightened the set screw and went on with your buisiness. This was probably to easy and simple for any of the big three to consider utilizing.
RE: Dizzy Installation O.K. Kent ; The distributor drive gear is helical (curved teeth) so it drifts as you install the dizzy , this is common and it's no big deal , O.K. ? .the triangle in the TDC mark , just loosen the timing clamp and turn the dizzy body untill you see the BB line up with the pointer , yes I know it's difficult to see but keep at it as correct timing is important . the octane selector is the 1/2" bolt that holds the dizzy to the engine block , if you wipe it clean you'll see some graduations stapmed into it , center it before touching the timing and then leave it alone ~ it was an old timey way of allowing field adjuatments when encountering poor quality fuels or making a delevery to DenverColorado for a few days so the driver could fiddle with it but not wreck the engine by over advancing it . you should use the slotted screw that holds the entire dizzy from rotating . The slotted thing down inside the engine you moved with the screwdriver when the dizzy was out is the oil pump drive . -Nate
RE: Dizzy Installation We cleaned the flywheel very good and it has no BB mark, only the tiny triangle. Viewing through the flywheel window, I set the pointer to the triangle, setting the timing with a gun. Does this sound ok? I want to get it correct because my next step is to set the valve adjustments. I read your procedure on www.speedprint.com/deves50/valveadjust.html. If I am to set the valves I need to get the timing right to begin with, and make sure the triangle is marker and not some BB that has worn off. I sure would hate to set my valves not-correct and have to deal with the consequences. I appreciate the other timing information you provided too. Kent
RE: Ignition Timing Sans BB Sorry for the late reply , very limited 'puter acees these days . Anway , use the triangle for the valve adjustment then set the basic timing to the triangle and go for a ride with a screwdriver in your pocket and do the ping test , keep advancing it untill it pings around 30 MPH in top gear when you stamp on the throttle ~ it will eventually , then only rotate the dizzy 1/16" back and it should be good to go . Enjoy your truck and feel free to ping me off list if you need . -Nate
