put-put
Member
Would appreciate inputs on rebuilding/buying a rebuilt transmission for 3 sp pu with standard 235.
thanks! Put-put
thanks! Put-put
Would appreciate inputs on rebuilding/buying a rebuilt transmission for 3 sp pu with standard 235.
thanks! Put-put
Yep ;
This is a dead simple tranny to overhaul .
Flip the 1st. / Reverse slider over to get 50 more years out of it .
Chevs Of The 40's in Wa. State , has the synchro hubs , be SURE to replace them unless it shifts *perfectly* now . they also have the all important cluster gear shims , the gear must not have too much end ply or it'll whine / howl / skip out of gear .
The shaft in the clister gear is *very* important , the rollers , scrap 'em all , measure the shaft where they run , if any wear , scrap the shaft .
Pay close attention to the various roller bearings ! I once got a bagfull of Bower BCA American made bearings that were too small in diameter ~ the counter boob said ' they're fine , in they go ' ~ B.S. ! that would have ruined my fresh tranny in jig time .
Use grease to hold the rollers in place as you're carefully re assembling the tranny on a bog old light colored towel , NO GAPS !!!! if you loose one bearing don't panic , just go buy a couple more , they're fairly cheap and easy to loose count of .
Once you do this , you'll feel the power of being able to do it your ownself .
Prepare for serious smelly filth as you take it apart and clean out the swap goo in the sump of the tranny .
I use a big metal drain pan to clean the various parts & drain & strain the fluid through cloth as there's always a couple needle bearings or a screw or that damned cluster shaft roll pin trying to escape .
It NEEDS a 1/2" NPT magnetic drain plug to last a long life..
If you liked how it drove before , rattles , whines , howls and crunches etc. , etc. , you'll LOVE how it drives once it's all right again .
Replace the pilot bushing in the crankshaft and prolly the clutch disc too to make it a good job , use two bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins both taking apart and re -installing , this makes it easier and ensures no clutch damage .
Good question ! .
I just get two extra bolts , about 1" longer , and cut the heads off with a hacksaw then bevel the edge a bit so they slip right into the flange holes on the tranny .
Install them in the bell housing by finger , do not snug up , just run them in , install the tranny and loosely install one or two tranny bolts , uscrew & remove the guide pins , toss them in the tool box , you'll be THE MAN when you use them on your neighbor's truck next year .
No need for any drilling or cutting , these used to be sold by GM dealers and really are very important as they prevent the weight of the tranny's input shaft from flexing & damaging the clutch as you are installing it ~ even if you're rich and have a $5,000.00 tranny jack with special Muncie attachments , you need to do this simple thing , it increases clutch life and improves shifting greatly because the clutch's friction disc always gets tweaked even if only a tiny bit unless you use guide pins .
One more thing you learn after a few years of humping trannies & clutches for a living .
I hope this helps , once you try it , you'll never do without guide pins again .
" pu " means either you need a bath , or , perhaps a Pick Up Truck.
Good question ! .
I just get two extra bolts , about 1" longer , and cut the heads off with a hacksaw then bevel the edge a bit so they slip right into the flange holes on the tranny .
Install them in the bell housing by finger , do not snug up , just run them in , install the tranny and loosely install one or two tranny bolts ,
With my luck it helps to slot the beveled end of the bolt so I can use a screwdriver to back them out when they hang up a little bit.![]()