I have an original 3 speed transmission for a 1950 model and I need some advice before I screw something up I want to remove the yoke and U joint for cleaning and lube. Do I just take the square drive pipe plug out and the whole unit slides out or is there some trick to getting this thing out. Does all the fluid drain out when it's removed? Also I haven't figured out how the bellhousing comes off yet so if you have any help on that it would be appreciated also. I have the top two bolts out but haven't crawled under the engine to look up in the bellhousing yet.
Confusing questions If you are talking about taking the yoke off the rear of the transmission, assuming it is a torque tube setup you have to unbolt the ball seal at back of tranny and then unbolt the trunnion inside of that. I don't know what square drive plug you are referring to other than the fill plug on the side of the tranny. Are you talking about how the bell housing bolts to the tranny or how the bell housing bolts to the engine? If tranny, there are two bolts on the bottom that bolt into the tranny from the front, inside the inspection cover for the flywheel. Shop manual and assembly manual are priceless for this stuff. Post back to clear up any other questions. Andy
Confused Chiro, Sorry I wasn't clear enough with my questions. With your answer and another review of the manual I have solved some of the problem. I've read the engine and transmission and clutch sections of teh amnual and they aren't real clear other than to say things like "remove the clutch housing" and the illustrations aren't specific enough in most cases. Anyway thanks for the response and here's where I'm at: Transmission removed - two upper bolts on upper outer transmission housing. Two bolts on lower housing removed from inside the bellhousing. Looking at the transmission from the lower corners it looked like the bolts had the heads broken off but I was looking at the ends of the bolts whcih are installed from inside the bellhousing. DUH! You can stop laughing now! On the yoke, The manual says to split the front yoke from the trunnion which would leave the rear portion of the yoke in the transmission housing and then if I read it right you remove a cap screw and remove the other portion of the yoke from the transmission. The square pipe plug I was referring to is the release for the rear bearing support and I don't think I want to mess with that. Any way I think I can handle the Yoke issue now. The confusing part for me is the bell housing which is called a clutch housing in the manual. I use old chevy V8 termanology which I should stop doing. This is my first six cylinder experience The manual has an install and a realignment section but no basic removal. After reading the realignment procedure with drilling out dowels and so forth I don't think I will try and remove the clutch housing before I take it to the rebuilder. I was hoping it was similiar to the chevy small blocks which you just unbolt to get to the clutch and flywheel. I guess that's no the case with these old motors. If you have anymore advice I'd sure appreciate it. This list is the best forum for these ole trucks. Sorry for any confusion I caused.
Bell housing (clutch housing) unbolts and comes off easy as pie. You must first remove clutch and flywheel. Bell housing removal is easier once the engine is out if that is what you are doing. Otherwise, you will have to find a way to support rear of engine as rear mounts are on the bell housing. Front yoke is bolted to back of transmission. Leave it bolted to the tranny. The trunnion (u-joint) unbolts from the front yoke of tranny. Unbolt ball seal and slide back on torque tube (look out for gear oil coming out of ball seal). Then it will all be very apparent what to do. Once trunnion is unbolted from tranny, the whole trunnion/rear yoke assembly will slide right off the drive shaft within the end of the torque tube. Follow Nate's most excellent procedure for re-installation of ball seal and proper shimming of the ball seal. You can search the archives for that. Look out for reproduction trunnions as some can be machined poorly (China) and not be correct. If original trunnion is in good shape, you can use it over again with no problems. Andy
Clutch Housing and Trans Yoke Removal Andy - can't thank you enough for the assist. Now all I need to do is "getter done" I'm off to search the archives for Nates Ball seal procedure. THANKS AGAIN
Torque Tube U-Joints 4 Trucks Is what I *think* it's listed under... Anyway , at the very back of the U-Joint ball is a knurled ring , clean it off and the area of the Torque Tube _behind_ it and loosen the knurled ring a few turns , then when you remove the four 7/16" bolts it will slide back almost enough for you to get your fat fingers and a wrench in the gap to unbolt the trunnion . _almost_ Look closely at the trunnions , if they're not loose or worn wobbly , re-use it . Argentine trunnions too can be horrible quality so SAVE the receipt if you buy one and mark it ' U-Joint ' so if it fails or is poor quality , they'll exchange it for another one... Some brands of replacement trunions come with the yoke and all pre-assembled , I see these on FleayBay occasionally , DON'T buy a used trunnion . Remember : EP 90W gear oil in there ! NO GREASE .
I Found It Thanks Nate, I found your expert procedure for the ball in a response to Chiro on his past transmission problem and this trunion information will invaluable if I need to replace mine. Thanks for all the good advice and help.
