1954 chevy with 235 engine. what is the pan that sits directly behind the oil pan. After driving the truck for a few miles, smoke came from under the hood and it looks like I have trans fluid all over the bottom of the engine, etc. after inspecting it, the pan directly behind the oil pan has 2 holes (rust holes) in the top of it. Thanks
Might need a picture. Is the trans a standard or automatic? If a standard (or manual) then the pan is the clutch dust cover but it has no "top". The top is the cast iron bell housing. If oil is coming out of the hole at the BOTTOM then there's a 99% chance the rear main is leaking and a 1% chance it's coming from the front bearing retainer. If an automatic then once again it has no top, just bottom and sides. Fairly common for these to leak from bolts being over tightened. warped, or for sure if it's an after market chrome one. Not unusual for the front seal to leak on an automatic and that fluid will run out the hole at the bottom of the cover.
Here is a picture of the pan and the rust holes. I m thinking this is where the fluid came from that on the base of the engine and caused the smoking.
Truck repair. Using a car lift or pit is required. Means that you have to take the pan of if the panseals are broken , new pan cover gasket is required then to. The clutch cover allows you to inspect your clutch/ toothwheel. Not expencive but some hours work it is offcourse! Transmission fluid is thinner then engine oil and smells bad if hypoid oil! If that is the question (Transoil) you prolly have to take the tranny out and check up the seals in front and rear . Taking out the tranny means you have to loosen the rear breaks wires and hook them of, remove main rearend wheel bolts underneath rear suspension/ the collar/ the front yoke. Then jack the truck and have jackstands underneath a secure place, Lock front wheels and pull the wheel axle backwords, remove the tranny. I would at the same time check the collar and front yoke condition seals when doing this inspection. Reverse install and fill up tranny with fresh oil. Martinius.
There are newer rubber type RMS's, they are a pain to change, requiring a little metal line to pull it through....if you are lucky. Best is to drop crank...inspect bearings, replace seals and torque all back together.
Are you sure it is not tranny oil? My tranny is now leaking from the front and rear, it was 1qt low today.
Seals! Rope seals are availeble in complete gasket engine kits (216 , 235 CU engines) incase you need to change other seals/gaskets later aswell this is a good investment. Our host have them or any classic chevy vendor. I dont know where you can buy the other rubber seals Flashlight discribes ? Martinius.
Scatter Pan Oil Seepage It's supposed to have a hole to allow oil to drip . If you wipe off the oil with your finger and it's brown or honey colored and smells of sulfur , it's tranny gear oil . There is no front seal on the transmission so parking the rig facing down hill often allows some oil to seep out . If the oil is dead black and thin , it's engine oil , if you have a 235 it's a simple thing to drop the oil pan and replace the rope seal , loosening up all the mean bearing caps allows the crank to drop a few thousandths & makes it easier to remove & re install the upper half of this rear main seal . You WILL need a cheap special tool called a " Sneaky Pete " to install the new rope seal upper half , go look it up and order it now so it'll be there when you need it ~ made by Lisle & K-D Tools , others too . Replacing the main bearing shells at this time is wise , only remove one bearing cap at a time . Did you recently service the tranny ? over filling the tranny can cause leaks out the front bearing cover .
Thanks Nate for straightening that out, I ordered the seal and gasket and the sneeky pete package this morning. To much oil under the truck after the drive back from the show. Need to start getting all the info now and tools ready so I can get it fixed.
Oil Weeps & Seeps Consider doing a leak down or blowby test , if it has lots it can still run great but you'll never staunch the leaks . To fix , simply yank the cylinder head and drop the pa , replace the piston rings (consider using gapless rings , they're terrific) and all the crank bearings , Rods& Mains , assemble with the top end dry and follow my 60 second breakin regimine and be amazed at how much power it gains and stops puking oil & blue smoke too....
The engine has less than 8 to 10,000 miles on the engine rebuild, it just has the leak at the rear main.
Charles, Does your engine have the rope or neoprene rear main seal? I really don't want to have to replace mine in as few as 8-10K. I'm planning on the neoprene for my fresh build at the moment, unless you suggest something different. Thanks! Damon
not sure what it is, will have to call the engine rebuilder and see if he remembers. I bought the rope to put back in the other one is for the 56 and above, or that is what this guy states that sells them on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/380198374932?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 .
" Dog Turd " Main Seals As soon as you get it , drop it un flexed , into a cup or shallow pan filled with thin Motor Oil to soften it up for a few days , this makes it easier to install . I'd love to try one of those neoprene typ rear seals , it might just be the bees knees .
I was thinking the same thing about the neoprene seals, Nate. I believe that's what my overhaul kit came with, but I'll have to check to be sure. If it is what was included, I'm going to go that route and give it a try. Damon
got the oil pan and crank cover off, now can someone take a look at the pics attached and tell me which bolts to loosen and where to go from here regarding replacing the rope rear main seal? Thanks
Rear Main Oil Seal Those same four big bolts you show there *BUT* , that rear main isn't leaking so I don't know why you want to take it apart...... Maybe you had an oil pan leak ? .
