I've been feverishly working on my 53' with a 235. I ended up putting on the Fenton Dual carb set-up with two Rochester "B's" on it. I also put a stainless split header system on it. I pre-tuned the carbs and the motor started right up. Awesome little six in heat. I am going to take it in for exhaust pipes and mufflers before doing anything else. Is it ok to drive 12 miles without exhaust pipes and muffler? Do I need to adjust the timing or anything else differently other then synchronize the carbs? I have had no experience with dual carbs before! I will post some pics with the finished product as soon as I get it buttoned up. You should all fell like dad's since I used so many of ya'lls suggestions. Flashlight
Twelve miles of regular driving shouldn't hurt anything but your hearing. They make a tool for synchronizing your carbs but I can't recall the brand name even though I have one somewhere from when we used to work on a lot of Corvairs. It's not expensive and a good thing to have for dual carbs. It fits on the top of one carb and has a vertical tube with a bubble like a carpenters level. You adjust the uncovered carb till the bubble on the covered one is at it's maximum heigth and then switch positions. I'll bet Nate or some of the guys from the UK or Europe can recall the name or add directions to the procedure because many of their carbed cars had duals on them.
Multi - Carby Tuning First you MUST adjust the valves then the points gap / dwell just as originally then finaly adjust the timing to ball on pointer , now you can begin fiddling with the carbys . NOTE : you CANNOT adjust any carby until the valves and ignition is *perfect* . It can't be done . The tool Even mentioned is called a ' Uni - Syn ' and the newer ones are made in China and I've heard many complaints they don't read right . Most kiddies who have old Hot Rod VW's , or MG owners , have these lying 'round and will sell for $5.00 . ALL VW Beetle partshaus' sell a much improved carby synchronization tool that has a dial in it . You'll need a seperate return spring on each carby and the cross linkage loose or disconnected before you begin . Start the engine and place the Uni - Syn on each carby neck , if there's a stud sticking up no worries , just duct tape a cardboard tube on it and set the Uni - Syn on top of the tube , have a duplicate tube on each carby . The tool has an adjustable ring in the middle of it , this is used to set the air flow until the red float is slightly above the middle of the tube ~ now carefully adjust each carby a tiny bit at a time until the red float is smooth and at the same height for each carby . this may take some time before you get it but no worries , stop for a smoke or soda then try again . No beer on this job . All done? the red float thing is the same on each carby? good ! now re-tighten the cross linkage and goose the throttle , the engine sould rev right up with no popping & banging . If that's all O.K. , shut it off and have your assistant gently hold the gas pedal to the floor whilst you peer down the carby throat with a flashlight ~ the throttle valve (' butterfly ') MUST be exectly 90 degrees in the venturi ~ if not , adjust the lower thottle linkage until it is and still returns to idle when released . Remember to use weak return springs else you'll wear out the throttle shafts in a year or less . People who don't understand how this all works will tell you ' multiple carbys go out of adjustment and will need much fiddling over time ! ' ~ this is UNMITIGATED B.S. ~ I set the dual HS4 S.U.'s on my old MG many years ago right after I rebuilt the engine and then I suffered much rusty fuel and clogged filters , eventualy I had to remove the fuel tank and de-rust and rebuild it but I never had to touch the carbys again in over 40,000 miles of hard driving and the gent who now owns the car in HotaZona , never touches them either ~ he , like me , carries two spare fuel filters (NAPA/WIX # 3001) and changes them any time they have dirt or water in them , so should you . I hope this helps ....
