O.K. , there's been another thread that meandered off into carby upgrades so let's bring it over here where folks searching for carby info will actually find it . I use the old Rochester Series 'B' carbys on my Chevys because I'm familiar with them but I realize the Carter YF carby is a vastly better design and can be found rebuilt and N.O.S. on E-Bay and through other vendors , it's a direct bolt up conversion that uses your original dry mesh or oil bath typ air cleaner and hooks to the factory throttle linkage , works *perfectly* on all multi carby set ups and is period correct for those of you who (like me) try to avoid cosmetic upgrades . Now I am hearing there's a Holly / Webber carby available ? these are modern design carbys I am familiar with and have used to very good effect on other vehicles , I'd like it if others chimed in here with links to Tom Langdon and Karb King etc. for sales and tech help . Bring it on fellows (ladies too )
Stovebolt Engine link OK. Here is a link to Tom's site, to start. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ Want to link up the other thread to this one? It has a lot of good info. Bob
Link To Other Thread Yes ~ here it is , the carby stuff begins on page # 2 . https://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=7528
I guess by now you've figured out I'm totally sold on carb upgrades...especially those that improve performance and can be had for about the same dollars as a rebuilt Rochester. A couple things to note....the single conversion of a H/W onto a stock 235 intake requires purchasing the carb, the adaptor, the linkage kit, and an electric choke conversion from a cumbersome water heated choke. Total cost for this is about $10.00 more than an AutoZone rebuilt Rochester. The breather setup from Stovebolt Engine Co. is a bit pricey...almost as much as the carb by itself. The tops of the H/W and C/W's is rectangular and requires a baseplate/thick "O" ring and offset attachment stud to hold the breather cover onto the paper filter. Stovebolt will sell you the pieces if you don't want to spring for the whole setup. The spun aluminum cover is pretty slick but if you don't like it's looks or price you can do a little creative engineering and come up with something more to your individual taste. The installation is a snap....cut off the bend at the top of the stock linkage, cut some fine threads and screw on the ball socket. Assemble the linkage to match the picture and hook up the ball socket to the carb. Langdon recommends cutting the fuel pressure down to a modest 3.5 psi. I used an inexpensive unit (more an adjustable orifice than a true regulator) just after the pump. I've used it with Rochesters with the same good results. The fuel inlet faces the fender so you may wind up using a small section of rubber hose. The electric choke exciter wire can be fed of any "key on" source. My engine cranked immediately, adjusted the idle down a tad, waited for the engine to come up to temp.....made a minor adjustment to the idle mix and that was it. I put it on a relatively hi-mileage 56 engine that had been a real bear and suddenly it became a smooth, responsive driver. No need for tinkering with jet changes.....nothing but crank and go. Have had several of my friends who are diehard Rochester fans use the little regulator and have noted a reduction in carb loading and fuel runoff after shutting their engines down. I contend that the excessive fuel pressure in engines that are spinning at higher rpms (with stock R&Ps) is causing a flutter in the float and letting excessive fuel past the needle. I've found pressures as high as 7 psi at 3K. That's my theory!!! Might be all wet but I'm going on what has worked for me. As for performance and bang for your buck....I don't think you can beat the H/W's or the C/W's. I've documented and have pictures of the install of both brands in my webshots GM albums. If you enjoy working on your Rochester to keep it from leaking and running rich you might be disappointed with the C/W's and H/W........as they are basically a "set and forget"......and just drive!!! Dave
Dave, I'm assuming the electric choke conversion is readily available at your FLAPS? Ever seen a manual choke put on one of these...or do you have pro and con ideas about this? I probably won't use the water choke. Thanks again for sharing all your information and especially your Webshots!! Bob
I'm Convinced! Dave, after reading your posts about Langdon's carburetors, I just had to have one! Ordered a single H/W and all the required hardware yesterday. So keep tab for your commission! Tom was very helpful on the phone too, nice guy. I've tried to find a Carter YF for my truck, but no luck, even on e-Bay. Guess I'm just not looking at the right times. Anyway, I hope my new carb gets here before the weekend, so I can get it installed. Will let you know how it works out.
Run on Tom's parts Bob, Looks like we've got parallel projects going here. Since you're closer to MI, there's a pretty good chance you'll receive yours first...so keep us posted and I will too. Bob
H/W carbs Hopefully, you ordered the electric choke conversion kit from Stovebolt Engine Co. At a whapping price of $12. for the correct conversion, it seems like the sure way to get the correct unit in the first place. Now that you've ordered the outfits I'll give you the bad news!!!!! When you get the kits you'll need to bolt the carb to the adaptor. At first it'll feel like the holes are out of alignment. So you get out the rat-tail file.....NOT! Just don't get frustrated and try to torque the bolts down to pull the adaptor and carb base together. Use a light touch and they will fall in place on there own. Holding the adaptor upside down drop the long bolts from the underside of the adaptor and the short ones to the outside of the adaptor, slide the gasket up on the bolts, slide the carb base up over the bolts, add the little angle brackets (with heim joint bolted on) to the long bolts and run the nuts on loosely. You may/may not have to dress down the head of the bolt on the heim joint so that it doesn't bind on the carb body. The key to getting it all together without any leaks is to have the bolts all loose in their holes and draw them down evenly with the nuts. If it seems to be binding you've got something askew. Repeating:YOU DO NOT HAVE TO FILE OUT ANY HOLES. Wiggle it around until it seats properly. Working with the carb and adaptor upside down seems to reduce the chances of having the binding issue. Langdon includes a decent set of directions and a picture of the linkage......I've got some additional shots in my album if you need to see it from different angles. Once you get the carb and adaptor mated together the rest of the install is straight-foreword. I think you'll agree after you get your engine running, that this modification was worth every penny. Dave
H/W choke I asked Tom about an electric choke when I ordered and he said he didn't carry them. I don't see them on his website either. If I can't find what I'm looking for, I may try to put a manual choke on anyway. Bob
No electric choke? That's odd......when I was on the phone with him, he asked me if I wanted the electric choke, and that it would be $12. I said "Sure, send it on" Wonder if maybe it was the last one he had? I didn't see it in his online catalog either, but I don't think he has his whole inventory online.
Electric choke Thanks Bob, Maybe I'll call him back tomorrow. Obviously a misunderstanding on my part...it was the manual choke he doesn't carry.
Looking at new carb Dave, Looking at this unit (arrived today), and I can't imagine putting this together without some visual help...Tom needs to steal your pictures for his website. His aren't even close compared to yours. Thank you again for your Webshots!!!!!!!! Bob
Carb update I got my H/W on yesterday. It runs great, but it won't idle smoothly. Maybe some jet changes are in order for it. Bob
Poor Idle I hope you checked valve adjustments , points gap/dwell and ignition timing , then vacuum leaks around the carby's base , before you fiddle with the idle jets .
Pre checks Yes Nate, I'll do that first. At this point, the idle mixture screw has absolutely no effect on it no matter where it is set. Unfortunately, today is full of other chores. Thanks, Bob
I agree totally with Nate.......but more specifically, after a bit of a tussle with the carb to adaptor to get a good seal you will cure the problem. As I mentioned before, when you get the four carb to adaptor bolts started with the 2 linkage right-angle pieces in place, the whole assembly should be loose, before you tighten it up. If it is binding and you try to draw it down with the 4 bolts it will leak. You might focus on the 2 angle brackets....might need to trim down the outer edge of the carb base (a couple passes with a hand held file) so that everything will draw down evenly and make a good seal. As for re-jetting.....negative.....it isn't going to be necessary. My H/W and both my C/W's were jetted correctly right out of the box. Didn't have to move the idle mixture screw more than 1/8 turn to lock it in where I wanted it. I think that if you concentrate on overcoming a vacuum leak you'll correct the problem 100%. Dave
Thanks for the advice guys! Won't have time to ding with it again until next weekend at the earliest, but I'll let you know what I find. Bob
Day off work We have had a few days off because of the nasty weather around here so I been trying to get this carb to run better. I rechecked everything and all is great. Valves, dwell, timing, and cannot find any vacuum leaks either. Still won't idle though unless...I put my hand over the air horn on top and cut the air off. Then it idles down nice and smooth. This should mean there are no vacuum leaks, right? Still no response from the idle mixture screw. Sure seems like a jet problem to me unless I'm missing something (which I probably am). Ready for the next piece of advice, Bob
Sounds like yoou have twice as much air as you need. If you put your hand over the top of the carb, effectivly cutting off the air it should be getting, I'd think it would die. (?) No expert...
