Voltage regulator

Discussion in '1947-1954' started by ADtije53, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. ADtije53

    ADtije53 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2007
    Messages:
    19
    It has been a while since I posted a question, so here is my question of the day.
    I converted my '53 truck to 12V with alternator, I got the wiring harness from Classic Parts; I got their own wiring harness. I am in the process of finishing the installation and have a question about the voltage regulator. When the truck was original stock it had a 6V generator and a voltage regulator.
    Do I still need some type of voltage regulator?
    I have checked and most vendors only carry a Voltage regulator for 6V and with generator.
    Also since I installed an HEI system in my truck I removed the ignition resistor which is not needed for HEI ignition systems.
    What purpose did the voltage regulator served?

    Thanks,

    Antonio
    Eagle - ID
    '53 3100
     
  2. Boopster

    Boopster Member

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2006
    Messages:
    332
    Location:
    East Texas
    Alternter

    Any newer style alternater should be internally regulated. An external voltage regulator should no longer be needed.

    I wired mine myself because I'M CHEEEEEPPPPPP. No regulator required for the new systems. So far everything works great and the battery even charges.:D

    TB'sD
     
  3. coilover

    coilover Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2005
    Messages:
    2,564
    Location:
    Plano US
    You don't need a regulator if the alternater has an internal regulator. On the older alternaters (Delco) that took a regulater the plug was square shaped and plugged in the back and on the newer ones it's flat and plugs in from the side near the back. I really doubt you have the old seperate regulater one. If you ordered your new loom for an alternater then just follow the directions. If not, wire the #2 spade terminal on the side plug to the "BAT" terminal on the back and run a wire from the accessory terminal on the ignition switch to the #1 spade terminal on the side plug. If you don't have an accessory terminal on your ignition switch and must use the ignition wire you will have to use a diode in the wire to the #1 terminal or the engine will keep running with the key off. If you have the new small alternater someone else will have to chime in. Also, the one wire alternaters have come down in price and that simplifies the process. What alot of people don't know about is if you have a quick winding engine (usually a V8) and have the #2 to BAT jumpered you can wing the engine to 4000 to 4500 and many times the alternater will excite itself. NOT a good idea on a just started engine or one with pipes and neighbors with sensitive ears. I drove a V8 LUV a number of years like this with no problem but would forget when someone else used it and they would run the lights, a/c, etc., and get marooned somewhere with a dead battery cause they didn't wing it to get the alternater going. Now when one of the young guys used it the alternater would be ginning away before it was off the lot.
     

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