I just finished cleaning my rearend and found out that the tabs on the backing plate that "support" the brakes (6 points) have some serious grooves worn in them probably about a 1/16 deep and I am afraid that the brake shoes will get hung up and cause bad braking problems. So I was thinking about welding up the tabs and grinding them flat. Has anyone ever attempted this? I just dont have the time to find new ones and take my rearend apart to swamp them out.
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Weld up the backing plate
- Thread starter 64c10
- Start date
Pontiac1976
Member
Yes the old boys use to do this. but you have to keep them the same height as stock would be.
Last edited:
Pontiac1976
Member
I do not think you read this post well ?
But it you order the right weld racing wheels to fit your diff & spindles
should be ok
F body cars should be 5 bolt 4 3/4" stud spacing about 4" to 4 1/2" back spacing 14" or 15" wheel skinnys in the front you will have to play with back spacing for your brake caliper if you go less then 4"
Reinovator
Member
Baking plate
I had this same problem with my half ton suburban
Here's some pictures of what I did I hope it helps.
Removed and cleaned up the plate
ground the area to be welded and cleaned out the groves with a die grinder
Welded area and ground area level to allow for smooth breaking
Reinstall, check seals, springs and wheel cylinders, always place a dab of grease on these points when changing brakes to avoid this problem a good idea is to check these points twice a year and reapply a dab of grease.
So far so good, others may differ in my method and I would say investigate before applying my method.
Have fun.
I had this same problem with my half ton suburban
Here's some pictures of what I did I hope it helps.
Removed and cleaned up the plate
ground the area to be welded and cleaned out the groves with a die grinder
Welded area and ground area level to allow for smooth breaking
Reinstall, check seals, springs and wheel cylinders, always place a dab of grease on these points when changing brakes to avoid this problem a good idea is to check these points twice a year and reapply a dab of grease.
So far so good, others may differ in my method and I would say investigate before applying my method.
Have fun.
Pontiac1976
Member
Looks good it's hard to see but did you build up the pad points to the same height or just level. Very good job 
Most GM services centers and Auto garages centers use anti-seize compound on all the backing plate sliding point’s pads.
And the adjusters spring tabs & holding pins back side of the backing plate. ( just a small dab on them)
Most GM services centers and Auto garages centers use anti-seize compound on all the backing plate sliding point’s pads.
And the adjusters spring tabs & holding pins back side of the backing plate. ( just a small dab on them)
Reinovator
Member
I did build it up it took a little figuring where the point should be so I placed the new shoes on with the backing plate hold down spins in place.
checked for clearance, then checked for flush
checked for clearance, then checked for flush
Reinovator
Member
backing plate
The anti-seize seems like a 'Great Idea'.
I guess I'm just old and now I'm the one saying 'I Remember when........All we had was Bear grease to lube our parts..and we liked it,we didn't need no fancy stuff.'
Sorry, got carried away Use the anti-seize. these points need some thing, don't install dry!!!
I even put it on disc brake friction, metal points NOT THE PADS. check with shop manuals, your local mechanic, etc. don't guess.
The anti-seize seems like a 'Great Idea'.
I guess I'm just old and now I'm the one saying 'I Remember when........All we had was Bear grease to lube our parts..and we liked it,we didn't need no fancy stuff.'
Sorry, got carried away Use the anti-seize.
these points need some thing, don't install dry!!!I even put it on disc brake friction, metal points NOT THE PADS. check with shop manuals, your local mechanic, etc. don't guess.