So I finally have the truck completely stripped down and ready to go to the blaster. When I bought the truck the rear end was not the original. In fact I have no idea what rear end is in it. I have posted pictures if anyone has any ideas???? There is a letter/number stamp on it which reads "AF1028". My bigger question is should I re use this rear end or is there one that will be better? I already have an open drive line and have considered going to the S-10 tranny conversion. I still want it to be 6 lug wheels and want it to look original on the outside (before you look under the truck anyways). No lowering it, not raising it, etc. I do want to be able to drive it on the highway though so I need something where the gearing can support that. Any input would be appreciated.
Steve, Some of the issues with a rear end change are: 1. Spring Perches (available aftermarket for common tube diameters) 2. Overall Width of the proposed replacement (WMS to WMS) 3. Disc/Drum brake compatibility with the master cylinder 4. Bolt pattern. Many 6-lug rears are 6 on 5.50 like our AD trucks, but some are not (Trailblazer and siblings, Dakota/Durango to name a few) 5. Hub Diameter. This dimension varies. Keep in mind the wheel is designed to be LOCATED by the hub, and CONSTRAINED by the lugs. 6. Wheel (and tire) Selection (wheel width and offset, tire height and width) 7. Gear Ratio Selection 8. Wheel stud size and length Rear End selection is like LIFE... Decisions in various categories drive others. Remember a narrow(er) rear can be spaced to fit perfectly (and the spacer can remedy a hub-diameter mismatch), but one that is too wide automatically drives you to a different wheel selection. A more costly rear with your preferred gear ratio may be cheaper (much cheaper) if a gear-change is factored in to a less costly rear with the wrong ratio. Make sure if you DO use a spacer, that it is hub-centric AND lug-centric. Yes, they cost more. Custom axles can cure several of the aforementioned issues, but can also snowball into C-clip eliminators and the like. A complete, soup-to-nuts custom rear end can be made to your specs... (a bit spendy unless there is a powerplant transplant in the future) Lastly, it is cheap insurance to change the axle bearings and seals in a used rear while you are in the fabrication stage.
That kinda looks like an early Ford 9". A Colorado rear end fits nicely, you do have to use a small spacer to use stock 6 lug rims to clear the hub. I just installed one on a 53, I'll get to pictures soon.........
Rear Ends Not sure why you want to change it as you've never tried it yet..... Why did you take the yoke off and all the banjo nuts too ? . Taking things apart needlessly is bad practice .
Mike - Some more info which might help Mike, You make many good points. Ultimately I just want a rear end that looks as close to stock as possible (wheel location, etc) and has gearing to do highway speeds. I am ok with drums on the rear being as I plan on converting to disc on the front wheels (still using original axle, etc), but I could go disk on the rear as well. At this point since I don't have an original rear end I don't think I really have much choice. The most logical choice seems to be to go to a compatible rear end which is sized to look right with the truck for a stock truck and will provide correct gearing to move at higher speeds. Although I am not opposed to going to a custom rear end built to the exact specifications, I wouldn't even begin to know what to tell the fabricator those specifications should be. I just know enough to be dangerous So with that in mind would you have any specific recommendations?
Russ - I need one of your instructional posts I would love to see some pics and a tutorial on how to make the change. I have read through many of your others and I know I will still use them many more times when I put mine all back together. Also, what year/model, etc Colorado rear end do I need. Just any Colorado rear end? Also what is the gear ratio in those?
Nate - Sorry I probably should have clarified The truck actually ran 100% at one time. The wife often reminds that I took apart a fully functional automobile. So I did run it with that rear end but it could not get much past 50-55 if at all. The speedo has never worked so I really don't know other than people passing me very fast on the freeway when driving it home from the person I bought it from. I am doing a complete frame up restoration so I intended on pulling this rear end completely apart. If nothing else to make sure the seals and bearings were good. Even if I decided to keep and use this rear end I still needed to change out the gearing so it could move at faster speeds. Either way I figured I would break it down and put it all back together right. Just like I am trying to do with the rest of the truck
Steve, I'm not sure how much help it will be, but I have a thread called "Installing a Colorado Rear End". I swapped mine out because I had a 3/4 ton and there was no way I'd ever see much above 45mph. The good folks on this site can help put you on the right path.
Zig - I read through that thread this morning - great stuff!!! There are a few things out of my depth in that thread but I think I could ask a few more questions and figure most if not all of it out. I am not a mechanic of any type but I can usually figure things out by reading directions (in spite of what my wife says) or looking at pictures. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Now the only question is where do I find a Colorado rear end in southern California. To the internet I go....
I used an 06 with drum brakes. Grind/ cut/ plasma off the old mounts, set up and center the rear end on the stock springs using a 2" wide saddle bracket. U bolt rear end down, set truck on ground. Measure pinion angle at rear vertical face of transmission, then mirror angle on rear end. Once in place, tack weld saddle mounts. Pull rear end out of truck and final weld saddle brackets then paint axle, re install and tighten down ubolts. Now measure from rear end u joint center to transmission u joint center, subtract 1 1/2" to 2" ( for driveshaft slippage) and tell driveshaft shop spec.s. Bolt in driveshaft, plumb brakes and figure out how to hook up E brake cables.
Russ and all - More questions..... So I did a little research on the Colorado rear end. Is it acceptable to use either a Colorado or a Canyon rear end? I know some on the forum get a little weird about mixing the 2 . Also based on what I looked up it looks like I could use a year 2004 to 2012 and any one of those years would work. Is that correct? All were made in the US during that time and all of those are first generation so I assume any year could be used? Lastly but probably most importantly what ratio would be the best to get? It seems that there is a 4.10, a 3.73, and a 3.42. I would think I would not want the 4.10 since that is what I think the original trucks had which is part of the reason that they can't get to highway speeds. So between the 3.73 and the 3.42, which one should I be trying to get?
Colorado and Canyon are the same, add Isuzu i280/i350 to that corporate mix. The rear I installed was a 2wd Z85 (regular suspension), and in 3.73/1 ratio for my application. My engine/trans, wheel/tire combo isn't stock, but the tire is stock height. Keep in mind the Patrick's gear set is 3.55... so you might be able to get by with a 3.42 in the Colorado rear.
Rear End Not sure why you don't just change the ring & pinion in this one ? . You know it bolts right in so I'd think rebuilding it would be easier and cheaper . It appears to be a Brand 'F' 9" so any rear end shop will be able to change the final drive ratio .
Nate - That sounds like a good idea Nate - I wasn't sure if that was an option but it sounds like it is. I guess I should just assume/hope that the spring perches are in the right location and the angle is correct? I am thinking about doing the s-10 tranny conversion. I am not sure if that would require any changes to the location of the perches? I just don't know enough about the function of cars to know that. My other question though is could I just completely pull this rear end apart? I can do that very well . Since I want it rebuilt (new seals, new ring and pinion, etc) I thought I might want to pull it all apart to have it powder coated. I am assuming I would not be able to powder coat it after it was rebuilt? Also, what should the hub diameter be? It would be nice to check the ones that are on there to see if they are the right diameter.
I'm not the mathematician, but I believe you can check the ratio of your axle by rotating the pinion yoke and seeing how many times the drum goes around, right? I don't remember, but were you using the stock tire height when you were driving this? A smaller tire height would hold you back as well.
If it is A 9", you can get anything you want for it. If it was already in the truck, it should be set up to match your springs. You can order any gear ratio you want, limited slip, etc.
I figured out the ratio of the existing rear end.... Zig - I too am not a mathematician but I was able to count the teeth on the pinion (10) and the teeth on the ring (39). According to my calculations that rear end has a 3.90 ratio....any my friends said I wouldn't amount to anything . My bigger question is that gear ratio too high???? It seems like it would be and I would want something a little lower so I can get to those highway speeds. Hopefully the experts on the forum can guide me on that. I also measured the hubs and they have a diameter of approximately 6 3/4". Not sure what kind of flexibility that give me with wheels that look close to original. Lastly aside from lowering the ratio on the ring and pinion, what would be the other things that I would want to change/fix/etc. if I am having the rear end rebuilt?
