how can i tell if i have bad wheel bearings took out truck last week and wheel was very hot took off tire and the drum was very very hot any thoughts on what to look for. oops forgot thats the rear axle getting hot thanks Robert
Wheel Bearing Jack up and safely block the front axle , sit on the ground and spin the wheel by hand , hub cap off ~ if you hear any rumbling , the bearing is shot . Have you re - packed them ever ? . It only takes a couple hours at most to change them out , most times it's the outer bearing that goes bad from lack of routine service . You'll need a l o n g flat nosed punch and a 32 Oz. or heavier ballpien hammer ~ no Chinese junk . It's smart to have a bearing & seal installer tool too ~ this is a series of flat discs used to properly distribute the force necessary to drive the new race into the hub ~ you must never , EVER install a new bearing into a used race . I imagine googling " how to replace front wheel bearings " will render you some good info so you can decide if you want to tackle this now .
rear bearing i have re packed the front bearings before the rear axle is whats getting hot hot hot will have little time to get into it the next few days. but i think i will have the rear drums turned to see if that works. and maybe trim the edge of the brake shoes as well. wish me luck. spent most of day doing a transmission pan gasket and filter and rear tail shaft seal. on my everyday toyota truck. it went quicker after i bought the seal remover tool what a great tool to make the job easy and quick.
Rear wheel bearing La Troca. Take the wheel in your hands and wigle it back and furth and feel if it moves ? If it does the bearings are shot. Taking out the bearings means you have to remove the rear spindles to get them out.Change both sides at the same time. Martinius.
Hot Rear Wheels Turning the drums will make it HOTTER ! . I wonder if maybe your rear brakes are improperly adjusted ? . Check / Adjust them when cold , in the morning before driving it . Jack up and block the rear axle , shift into neutral and by hand , spin each rear wheel in turn ~ (radio off , dig ?) if you hear the slight " sh , sh , sh " of the brake shoes touching the drum , the brakes are too tight and will drag and cause over heating of the drums . If you hear a deep if faint rumble , that's a bad wheel bearing . If it's not too loud , try draining and re filling the rear end so you can made the meet , then get new bearings , seals and a 1/2" NPT magnetic drain plug , remove the axles and have your local Machine Shop press the new parts on . Remember when the derby cover is off to completely clean out all the old nasty gear oil and accumulated crud ~ wipe deep down with a clean white towel and look closely for shiny bits , if you find them you're going to have to really scrub the entire banjo clean with gasoline or some other cleaner that'll leave no residue and allow you to get every single bit of metal SWARF . Again : DO NOT TURN THE DRUMS UNLESS YOU WANT TO DIE .
drums Nate i did what you said i did find out the edge of thr brake shoe is rubbing. because the k5 rear end has my 52 backing plates and shoes and drums i think if i put a spacer it should cure it i did put some washers between hub and drum and shhhh went away or i can grind the edge of the shoe. Robert
Rubbing Spacer ? . Where ? . That sounds possibly a good idea , can't you simply install all K5 brake shoes & hardware ? . should be cheap OnLine or used .
shoes i think there the same as the 52 i was thinking witch gets me in trouble all the time. anyway a spacer on the axle hub and brake drum.
I'm pretty sure the rear brake drums changed i the 1970's.... A spacer between the axle flange and the brake drum should work but you'll have to check to insure the raised inner lip of the brake drum doesn't rub on the shoes more than the working area ~ if it does , have the brake shop trim *just* the outer lip smooth .
