I'm getting close to starting on the brake system and have some questions / problems I need some help with. First a little background. This is a 49 1/2 ton with 54 Front and Rear Bendix brakes. Most all the brakes system was previousley removed. I have the original 49 rear but it's huck brakes. The 54 manual says the brakes use two different size lines depending on location. I have a dual MC to install for the conversion. I also ordered the rear wheel cylinder replacements for a 54 and they came with the rubber boots flush with the end instead of the outer rubber cup type. Somes questions are these: 1. Do I use banjo bolts with these new type rear wheel cylinders? If not are the stock lines for a 54 the correct length? 2. What size lines do I use 3/16 or 1/4 inch or follow the manual and try and figure what size goes where? 3. Can I route the lines like the original 49 just splitting out the front for the master cylinder connection. 4. Which port on the MC is for the front brakes and which for the rear. I'm assuming the front port (which is to the rear when installed) is for the front but we all know what assuming does! I already searched the archives for info and bought the recommended MC with the deeper actuating rod hole but there isn't any specific answers to the above even though there is alot of info in the posts. Thanks for any assist you can provide.
Craig, Double check with the vendor you bought the master cylinder from. I am running 4 wheel discs, so my setup is a bit different. Most modern master cylinders use a proportioning valve along with them. Some setups even use a line pressure residual check valve. On my particular setup, the master cylinder lines go out to the proportioning valve. Then I ran 2 smaller sized lines to the front, and 1 larger line to the back, where it splits to the 2 sides. I am not sure on your wheel cylinder connections without seeing what they look like. My proportioning valve has ports for a warning light, and a pressure activated brake light switch. I used prefit lines for some of the install, and made the rest of the lines. Overall it worked out nice. Hope this helps some.....Mike P.S. My truck is a 1950 1/2 ton.
Brake lines etc Mike thank for the response. I had a lengthy response back at you but the computer dumped during te latest rainstorm and it went to cyberspace somewhere. The short story is the vendor (autozone) couldn't help and neither could advace auto. I'll check with some other folks but your response gave me some ideas to check on to. thanks again Craig
Try : InLine Tube ; They're on the 'net and make all the nice pre - bent brake fuel and vacuum pipes the vendors sell .
I think the rear wheel cylinders are mounted with 2 small bolts on the opsit side. It may be a good idea to get a higher grade bolt, although the wheel cylinder force should cancel its self out. You may want to check out the 1967 models. I think that was the first year for dual MC. I know ford had the dual MC without disk brake & I dont rember an equalizer valve on it. I would recomend getting a double flaring tool, tubeing benders and a tubing cutter. Practice on junk lines. It is fairley easy & with luck the tools will last the rest of your life.
Brake lines etc Thanks for all the tips and tricks guys but I'm so frustrated I wished I had stayed with the old single master cylinder. So far I have determined that I have or had 1/4 inch lines and I think there is one vendor that sell just the rear lines and the fornt lines as separate items. I still have to figure out how to tie in the double Master cylinder. I checked in line tube and like the others they sell sets and not individual replacement lines. I don't understand why some of the vendors who sell the dual master cylinder conversion don't sell a brake line conversion to go with it. Seems it would make sense to me. Well enough rant for today. Back to honey do's.
