Do you mean bench bleeding? Before hooking it up, put the plastic plugs into the outlets and pump the piston to push flid into all the orfices in the m/c. Pump until no more bubbles come out. You can use a stick or a screwdriver to work the piston.
Bench bleeding an AD with the MC on the frame is not necessary. In that situation the MC is bolted in a level position so you can bleed it without removing it.
Bench Bleeding & The Stick Trick Are two different things : Bench Bleeding is only correct if you get two short pieces of brake tubing and attach them to the output ports on the master cylinder so they dump the fluid back into the resivoir as you press in the piston . Anything else is a waste of time . The Stick Trick is for when you've bled the brakes 100 % and cannot quite get that last few bubbles out , wedge a stick between the seat and the brake pedal for 24 hours then remove it and let it sit 5 minutes before depressing the brake pedal . Remember : brake bleeding MUST be done in the correct order from the furthest wheel to the nearest .....
I got most of the air out with a vacuum pump I forgot I had. I'll try the stick to try and finish the job. How far down does the pedal need to be? I'm assuming just enough to open the ports up. Thanks again
How Far Down ? Yep ; Just far enough to open the By-Pass port . I like to wedge it down hard as it gives me a good feeling but prolly doesn't help any .