I am looking to replace the ##### YF 2100S on my 235. This one insists on dumping gas after I rebuilt it. Evidently I did something wrong and can't seem to get it right. I want to stay with something fairly close to the original 1 barrel. The engine is a 1962 235. It currently has the #####, but I know that the Rochester B will also work. Any recommendations on which would be the better choice? This is going in a 1949 1 1/2 ton flatbed, so I am not looking for speed, just reliability. I want to keep it fairly close to original, so I don't want a 2 barrel or 4 barrel unless there is some compelling reason to consider it. I'm looking for suggestions.
Can't offer suggestions for replacement carbs, but if all else fails, take a look at your float adjustment, and needle valve. an inline filter helps too if you don't already have one. I ran into the same problem after rebuilding the rochester on my boat. some debris got into the float bowl and was keeping the needle valve from fully seating. 4 disassemblies later it worked like a champ (still does).
Thanks for the words of encouragement.... I think. I have gone through it a couple of times. I confirmed that the float was set to the specified open and closed points. I doublechecked that the needle valve was shutting off tight by blowing through the inlet while raising the float while it was disassembled. I have already installed a fuel filter before the fuel pump to try to keep the pump and carb clean. All the line from the filter to the carb are new steel lines that I flushed before install, as well. I have checked the bottom of the bowl at each disassembly and I don't see any debris. The truck starts and runs fine, except that it is leaking a huge amount of gas from the bottom which, of course, runs all over the exhaust manifold. That's not a good thing if I ever let the engine run long enough to hot.
RE: Which Carburetor ? [updated:LAST EDITED ON Dec-07-05 AT 08:58 AM (CST)]Well ; The one you have is the best one for the job but I like and use , the Rochester " B " series carbys and you're in luck as Cgevy Duty sell great quality rebuilts , they're rebuilt , oddly enough , by (arter ! I'll gladly take that old 2100 off your hands as even if it's cracked (happens sometimes) it's still good for parts to me... BTW : resist buying a cheaper rebuilt Rochester off E-pay or from your FLAPS as few rebuilders bother to replace the throttle shaft bushings like the CD rebuilts do..... -Nate
RE: Which Carburetor ? Thanks Nate. I am still thinking about it. I just seem to hear a lot about the ##### leaking and the floats sticking.
RE: Dirty Fuel.. Is what causes most carby leakage problems regardless of brand . I belive CD sell the glass bowl typ of fuel filter , you'll find WIX , NAPA and AC all still make the replacement paper elements for them.... Lots of old stock and good used AC and (arter brand glass bowl fuel filters too -or- just add an inline paper element one at the carby inlet , that's the best and simplest way to go . Be sure you use a _clear_ filet like WIX # 33001 or NAPA # 3001 . Lastly , Rochester series ' B ' carbys DO NOT ' leak ' ~ they _seep_ at the air horn gasket , if it dribbles fuel either the float is set to high or the air horn is warped . I have fixed leaky ones by carefully smearing Permatex on the gasket before assembly then allowing 48 hour cure time before putting gas in it , be forwarned you must use a fuel filter in this case as it's a PIA to get it back apart ~ you must soak the entire carby in alcohol to soften up the Permatex but it _WILL_NOT_ leak or seep . -Nate
RE: Dirty Fuel.. Again, good tips Nate. I had already installed a fuel filter at the same time I rebuilt the carb and put on the new stainless lines from the filter to the fuel pump and on to the carb. The only old piece of line runs from the flex end of the line coming out of the fuel tank to the filter (about 5 feet. Everything past the filter is new. I purged the line from the pump to the carb before I hooked it up, so I a pretty sure there is no crud being pumped into the carb. I just think that I did something wrong when I rebuilt the #####.
