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Will a S10 Blazer gas tank?

gulffishin

gulffishin

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Ok, I know there are a million threads about putting a full-size blazer gas tank in our trucks, but I was wondering if the newer S10 Blazer tanks would work too? I am only asking b/c I know where I can get an S10 tank for pretty cheap, and was just wanting to know if anyone has tried it before I buy one.:confused:
 
That custom tank looked pretty good, but dang it's over $400... I'll have to sleep on that one...
 
If you need to replace your tank I recommend the kit from classic, it has most of what you need and runs about $200. There is some work that goes along with it, but it frees up some space in the cab, not to mention it gets rid of that gas odor we all get used to. We're using the space for my sons system. Just a thought.
 
stainless gastank

go to preformance online they have the dimensions listed below the picture from the alumium gastank.
I double checked the dimensions and went out bought some 304 stainless .
don't forget the bafels inside the tank.
cut it to size and brake it to shape . I going to use the TIG welder to weld the seams.
I just started this yesterday I will post some picture from the progress.
the stainless whas $120 dollars .
 
I'll probably get the $200 kit, I was just being cheap:rolleyes: My tank in the cab looks pretty new (it isn't rusted), but like everyone else, I would rather have the gas tank outside the cab.

I would make my own tank, but my welding skills are no where near good enough to make a gas tank.
 
If you have a sheet metal near you, give them some demensions and what yo need for inlet and outlet, and get a quote, but your asking for a water tank, not a gas tank, most all shops liability won`t allow for gas tanks.
 
I said there was some work involved in replacing the tank, but its not hard. Just add some gas line, and a longer wire for your fuel guage. The hardest part is fabricating where you are going to put the fuel filler. We are putting it right through the wood in the center of the bed using a flush filler cap. A few years back I replaced the fuel hose and it actually kept most of the fumes and gas smell out, which of course is cheapest way to go!
 
I'll check with a few of the local machine shops and see what they would charge me for a "water tank";), if it's a lot more than the kit, I'll just get the kit; I'm pretty sure I can handle the minor fabrication and running fuel lines for the install. I was thinking about either cutting a hole in the bed, or putting a hinge on one of the bed boards for the filler cap, guess I'll see which is better after I get to that point.

Thanks for your help. Happy Thanksgiving!
 
keep in mind that the Tank (its a blazer tank) will hang down as low as the rear axle, maybe a little further, if you`ve lowered the truck you may have issues, that is the only problem with these tanks and is the reason a lot of them won`t use it, the mopar is only 11 inches deep as opposed to 14 inches deep, the sames goes for the performance tank at 11 deep. If it was a little shallower they probabley couldn`t keep them in stock.
 
You know we went the other way, didn't drop or lift just added some 22's. I was looking at the tank and we have about two to three inches clearance above the differential. I'm not sure how much this would change or what has to be done if you drop, but I wouldn't think this would change. I'll get some pics posted.
 
I just saw a thread where a genlemen used a `51-`54 chevy pass car tank under the bed, no modifications where done, its 16 gallon, offered thru Quanta tanks.
 
As taken from the web site: author Lakeroaster.

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...ategory_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd113.htm

'49-'52 Chevy passenger car gas tank and mounted it in the frame behind the rear axle.

Filler tube is a modified '37 Ford, Locking Filler Cap is a '32-'50 Ford pickup.

Fabrication:

Lower frame rail flanges were trimmed using a Sawsall and a grinder to allow the tank to drop out for maintenenace.

Drivers side frame rail notched to allow filler tube clearance. Reinforced notch with C4x5.4 structural steel channel.

Bobbed the rear of the frame to make room for a rear roll pan. This involved removing / replacing the rear frame crossmember with a new one out of C4x5.4 structural steel channel. Bottom flange of the channel was cut off to allow tank to drop out for maintenance. New rear bed mounting brackets were also made coping some of the C4x5.4 channel.

Fabricated upper tank supports out of 1x1x10ga structural rectangular tubing.

Fabricated tank strap support brackets using 2x1x1/8 structural rectangular tubing.

Ran 3/8" aluminum fuel line through passenger side frame rail to fuel pump.

Installed Fram cartridge style fuel filter


Parts List:
Gas Tank: Tanks Inc. P/N 51-CG, 1949-52 Chevy Steel, $195.00
Mounting Straps: Tanks Inc. P/N UMS, $12.50
Sending Unit: Brothers P/N ATK59SU, 0-30 Ohm Universal, $26.99
Gas Filler Pipe: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N 78-9034-B, 1937 Car, $35.00
Locking Gas Cap: Bob Drake Reproductions P/N01A-18416-B, 1932-50 Pickup, $35.00
Fuel Filter: Jegs P/N 410-HPG1, Canister Style Fuel Filter, $41.99
 
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