Hello all, time to put it back together. But I am unsure where the 2 cross rails go? I am pretty sure I get the rear one based on Nate's great pictures but I am unsure of the forward one. So in the rear picture you can see the position of the wood block and the rail. I know the bolt will go though wood slates. Now the wood blocks came with 2 rubber squares, not sure if these go in the front or rear cross member? My biggest issue is the front cross rail. In My frame rails there are no holes to pass the bolt through, do I need to drill ? If so where should the forward cross member be? So any help would be appreciated! Denis
Maybe these will help Maybe you can zoom into these photos enough to see what you need. The holes already existed in my framework.
Thanks yours rail config is different Thanks looks like your arrangement is different than mine, maybe because the gas tank is under bed? Denis
Wood Bed Hi Denis, I used to drive them old boats also, 480, 624, 563 back in the 60's. The flanges that hold the first board on each side also hold the cross pieces. Mine were spaced on the second bolt from each end. The first boards are installed and the bolt that holds the board also gets the end of the channel. I replaced the cross pieces on my bed with u-channel purchased from Home Depot in the electrical section. It looks similar to the one in your picture, u shaped with slotted holes. The heavy duty will do fine unless you decide to haul engines or gravel. Most of the old trucks haul a cooler and cleaning gear not the heavy stuff. I found using the bolt location as I found them that the bolts between the boards through the stainless strip did not line up with the cross piece using those locations. So after installing the bed I crawled under and used short lag screws and bolted the bed to the cross pieces just to keep the bed from moving up and down. I do not know how to post a picture so if you e-mail me direct with any questions I also could put a couple of pictures on it. I wonder if Snorkel Patty still wanders around New London. Gary ss563atccwebsterdotnet
Most frames have worn spots where the cross sills usually sat. Check my assembly thread for pictures on this.
Ol' Chebby pics Thanks no worn spots as I cleaned up the rails. I am reposting two of your pics to help me ask a question. In pic 7965, I assume this is the cross member near the cab, is that correct? I do not have the holes for the bolts but can correct this. Now when I look at pic 7981 I see the two green cross members but they look like one is about in the middle and the other 1/3 back. I am sure I am looking at this incorrectly. is the green rail on the left of the picture the one that is next to the cab, as shown in 7965? I appreciate your help, Denis
The first is the front crossmember, showing the wood block and going through the frame at the mid crossmember. The second shot is from the rear, the extreme right is the rear crossmember. Skip a row of strip bolts, then the next bed crossmember, skip 2 rows of bolts (should be over the frame kick up over the axle) and another bed crossmember.
50 bed wood Hi denis I too am getting ready to do my bed wood and i have a 50 and when you figure out just witch rail goes where would you please take some good detailed pics of how and where they go i would love to see so i can do mine . thanks Ron what year is your truck
My bed I certainly will post pics. It may be a slow process. I am semi-retired and the fall is my busy semester and I am teaching a new course at the Sub base so will be a bit busy. I am blessed to have great work, great hobbies and great family. Time for all those is the challenge but no complaints.
still confused about cross rails Ok back to finish the bed. "ol' chebby The first is the front crossmember, showing the wood block and going through the frame at the mid crossmember. The second shot is from the rear, the extreme right is the rear crossmember. Skip a row of strip bolts, then the next bed crossmember, skip 2 rows of bolts (should be over the frame kick up over the axle) and another bed crossmember." I am clear about the font cross member. Not so clear on the other two. Looking at my frame, there are two sets of holes rear of the rear end but only 4 inches apart, see picture. I am certain this is where the cross rails were bolted. Seems like they should be spread out to equally support the weight of the bed? But there are no other holes???? Any thoughts anyone?
I would say that the front most holes ((left of the crossmember) should be the one for the bed crossmember. Assemble the bed wood and the stainless strips, they will show you where the crossmember goes. Put the rear most bolts through the tail panel under the tailgate, the next row gets washers and nuts, the next row wil go through the crossmember, 2 rows of washers and nuts, next row gets crossmember, then a row or 2 of washers and nuts and last the front crossmember.
wood bed OK the first cross member is at the front of the bed. The second one is almost a quarter of the way back , actually 18 inches from front because frame starts to curve up and lifts board. The third is where you suggested. Questions: 1. do the cross members look correctly placed? I need to drill one set of holes for the second one. 2. in your pics, I see the large bolts in the rear of the bed (2 of them) drilled through the boards. Are there two more for the front to cross members? 3. The side rails (L shaped), how are they attached, they look like they are sitting on top of boards? I realy apprecieate any advice! Denis
1947-1954 Pickup bed Over at Stovebolt.com they have a forum called "Making a Stovebolt Bed". I do believe all your questions will be answered.
Read through this a couple of times and see if it helps (The original holes in your bed cross sills will tell you so much. The distance between the holes will determine your varying board widths, and the number of these spaces between holes will determine how many boards you will need. The holes in the frame will determine placement of the few holes to be drilled in the two outermost boards.) 1953 GMC ½ Ton Short Bed: Wooden Bed Assembly (refer to the attached diagram while following the narrative below - use this as a guide and adjust depending on what year you have and if you have a long or short bed) The 1953 utilizes two (2) angle strips welded to your bedsides and eight (8) boards and seven (7) metal wear strips. Place the bed frame securely on saw horses. Make sure your bed front panel is fastened squarely to the bedsides and bed sill #1. Bed sill #4 should also be attached and the entire bed be in square before you begin. I was able to begin with a pre-cut, pre-drilled, and pre-grooved wood bed kit and complete bed bolt kit. I stained (exterior grade) and varnished (marine grade) the wood. LAYING OUT THE BOARDS The boards are laid out in pairs as you are looking down on the bed from above as such: Starting along the bedsides, a narrow board with 2 holes drilled in the wood. The end with the holes is placed at the TAILGATE end. These are Boards #1 + #8. Next find a wide board with 1 hole drilled in the wood. The end with the hole is placed at the CAB end. (B2, B7) Next find a narrow board without holes. (B3, B6) Finally, a wide board without holes. (B4, B5) Space the boards apart evenly and between them, you will find the bed sill holes for mounting to bed sill #1 and #4. The four boards that have holes (6) in them should align properly with extra holes in bed sills (#1, #3, and bed sill extension on bed sill #4) that will eventually be mounted to the FRAME. (these are marked on the diagram as locations A B C in a square). NOTE: Bed sill #2 does not attach to the frame. LAY OUT THE STRIPS Place your metal strips over gaps between boards. The hole in the strip closest to the end shall be placed at the TAILGATE end. CARRIAGE BOLTS You will need to make some modifications to boards #1 & #8 for attachment to your angle strips. In order to get these boards in and out, you should begin placing your 1 ¼” x ¼” carriage bolts in all square holes in metal bed strips #3, #4, and #5. The rest will come later. Only finger tighten all hardware until you have adjusted all components to your satisfaction of fit. Have a helper work along with you from above to prevent bolts from pushing back up through (or use a thick phone book) and you crawl under the bed. It seemed easier for me to begin with bolts placed between bed sills. From underneath, they require a large fender washer, lock washer, and a nut. – remember to finger tighten only at this point. Next, you can go back through these same bed strips #3, #4, and #5 where they attach to the bed sills. Instead of the large fender washer, you use the smaller flat washer so it will fit up inside the bed sills. This part is tricky because you have very little area to work in, so if you have old fat fingers like me, you might want to recruit an eager boy or girl anxious to help in some way. Their small hands will come in perfect here. BED SILLS #2 & #3 At this point, I was able to easily attach the additional bed sills. I would hold up the bed sill from underneath the bed. My helper would drop down carriage bolts and continue as documented above. We started from the outside and then moved inward. OUTER EDGE BOARDS (B1 & B8) You may have to tap these boards into place to fit up under your angle strips by using a hammer and a small scrap piece of wood. Use the scrap wood to protect your beautiful wood. Make sure the edge of the board has just cleared the hole in the bed sills. Also make sure the holes in your board for frame mounting line up with the frame mounting holes in the bed sills/extensions. Adjust accordingly. Now, make sure the bedside is not bowing out. You can see this from underneath the bed. If it is, use a large clamp to pull the bedside to the board. Your angle strips should have square holes punched in them from before. Take a black felt tip marker (sharpie works great) and mark these holes onto the wood. Remove boards and drill the holes to match your angle strips. Protect new exposed wood holes with varnish. Re-insert B1 & B8. Align the holes and insert 1 ½” x 5/16” carriage bolts (slightly larger than those used above). Finish underneath with a small flat washer, lock washer, and nut. These can now be tightened with a wrench. FINAL BOARDS / METAL STRIPS & FINAL FIT Position boards B2 & B7 like in the beginning and the remaining metal bed strips. Continue with the carriage bolts and such like documented above. Perform final adjustment of the boards so that the bed strip covers the gaps between boards and fits down in the grooves. Once you are satisfied with the fit, then you can begin tightening the hardware from underneath the bed. Do not tighten so tight that you bend the metal bed strips. MOUNT THE BED TO THE FRAME Recruit two more of your friends that have been just hanging around giving you advice instead of really helping. Each person lifts a corner of the assembled bed and carefully positions it into place over the frame. See the diagram for ‘Frame Connection Locations” marked A B C . In order of top down: A : 12” carriage bolt, offset washer, countersunk, board, bed sill #1, wood block, rubber block pad, top and bottom of frame, flat washer, lock washer, nut. B : 6” carriage bolt, offset washer, countersunk, board, bed sill #3, wood block, rubber block pad, top (only) of frame, flat washer, lock washer, nut. C : 6” carriage bolt, offset washer, countersunk, board, bed sill #4 extension, rubber block pad, top (only) of frame, flat washer, lock washer, nut. NOW Fill your bed with your favorite items for transport and enjoy with your friends.
not sure what you are wanting to drill? I am confused on what you are wanting to drill. When dealing with the 2nd crossmember sill from the front, it should not need any drilling. This 2nd sill does not attach to the frame or the boards. The metal wear strips DO attach to this 2nd sill. Your corner angle "L" strips may or may not attach to this 2nd sill - depending on where your holes are punched (I can't recall on mine). You should not have to drill anything. Do the holes line up better with the other sills if you turn the sill long ways 180degrees? (not sure if it should matter). Also, there are NO holes to be drilled in any of the boards where this 2nd sill is placed.
Denis - you are correct. There are 2 holes in each of the outermost boards (up against bedsides) near the TAILGATE end. THEN there is ONE hole in each of the next board in and it is placed up at the CAB (1st sill). There are only these 6 holes that are drilled in the wood (4 boards). These 6 holes are the only places where long bolts go through to attach to the frame. ------------------------- Again, length of your bed and model years may vary - mine was the 53' short bed. Looks like you are making your own boards, so just leave all of the drilling of the holes in the wood to the very end. Assemble the box fully with the wood, metal strips, and crossmember sills first, and then place it onto the back of the truck in the correct placement and then you can mark up from underside through the holes in the frame for where you should drill the 6 holes in your wood for final bed to frame attachment. Good luck. Wish i was there to help - this is one of the few things i KNOW i can do! Find a friend that is good with puzzles.
does one cross member float Looking at another site I found one guy who suggests one of the cross-members (one in front of axle) is not bolted to frame, which make sense since I do not have any holes in the frame in that section of the frame. Can anyone verify this?
