Hi All, I'm a newcomer. Good site with lots of experienced mechanics! I've got a '50 GMC and '52 Chevy to make one truck out of... I THINK it's gonna be a GMC. Not restoring, just rebuilding. I have the Chevy stripped down to the frame, and have a few cracks from a bolt hole to the edge of the frame rail. Also, a cross member has some cracks in the flange ends where they attach to the frame. Any concerns with this? If so, what's the best repair method?
Welcome to the forum! Another Texan joins the ranks! Zig is going to love the fact that there will be another jimmy coming back to life! I'm thinking that cracks in your frame could be welded up, but I'm not an expert on whether or not they can be welded or the welding technique used. But rest assured, there are some very knowledgable folks on the forum who will tell you exactly what you need to do about your frame. We have a lot of fun here and love looking at pics, even if they are less than gorgeous Chevs
55-59 GMC Maintenence Manual has a couple of pages devoted to fixing frame cracks. I'd take it to a big truck shop.
Bilbo, when you say cracks do you mean hairline cracks or OMG thats a huge line to weld. If it's hairline I'd just weld the crack together from the top and bottom of the frame and then grind it smooth. You'll never know it was there. If it's the OMG thats a huge line to weld then add some metal to the bottom and weld it in place. Then fill in the gap with a weld. Grind it smooth and move on with the build. As far as the cross member goes you could probably fix it but to me it would just be as easy to fabricate your own. Square 2in tubing about 1/8th in thick is what I'm making mine out of. It should be more than sturdy for a cross member. This is just my opinion and actually what I'd do in your situation. Just a thought.
Notice the cracks are on the Chevy frame? My G's frame looks like it just rolled ff the factory line...
AD Frames Pretty much everything will bolt up to the Jimmy frame and GM used not only a better grade of steel in AD are Jimmy frames (they actually called them " rustless " !) but usually a gauge thicker too . What the guys said , have it welded at a frame shop (alingment shop) or a place that does Big Rigs as you need it properly done so it doesn;t come back and cause more problems . Don't worry ! frame welding can be done and it's safe too . WELCOME to our group ! (BTW : that's GMC red there) Use the '52 brakes , they're Bendix and a world better plus cheaper & easier to find parts when you need 'em .
Obtw : You've gotta watch out , most of the GMC owners are really screwballs ! We let thembask in the glory of our superior CHEVROLETS though (guess what color that was ?)
Thanks for the tips Guys. I'm using the '52 chevy frame, cause the GMC is still running and can be used 'till I need some of the parts, like engine/tranny. I'm already aware of the less expensive brake system, thanks.
I don't know diddley about Chevy vs. GMC AD frames, but the front crossmember on the '57 GMC frame is vastly different than the same year Chevy frame. Different enough that radiator mounts, front motor mounts and sway bars will not interchange. Before you start planning on just dropping what Nate refers to as a "long motor" into that Chevy frame make sure that you know what additional work you might have to do.
We have had good luck "V"ing a groove in the top or bottom flange and welding with a shielding gas like a TIG (argon) or 75/25 MIG (argon/CO2) that keeps oxygen away from the weld. If a frame is broken then splice plates, boxing, and/or fish plates are used. If boxing be sure to have the boxing plate ends tapered and not square(perpendicular) to the frame. If square this will make an abrupt transition from the "C" channel frame that twists to a box that doesn't; a fertile place for a crack to start. Dug up some pics of a box frame splice, it has splice plates inside the box that are welded at the splice plus rosette (plug) welds in about 5 places several inches on each side of the splice. The diamond shaped fish plate eliminates a top to bottom weld, probably not a problem but car got a very salty engine and sticky tires so why chance it.
Dang Coilover! The only thing more impressive than those pictures, is your command of the English language! Reminds me of the line in "Blazing Saddles" when Taggart, played by Slim Pickens says to Heddy Lamarr, played by Harvey Korman: "God darnit, Mr. Lamarr, you use your tongue prettier than a twenty dollar whore"! BTW, how is the '37 coupe coming along? I'd love to see some pics of that!
Dang, now you got my wife mad at you; every time she wants something done I'm in front of a mirror looking at my tongue. The 37 has hidden hinges, power windows, bear claw latches, one piece side windows, and several other whistles and bells. Now waiting for the chassis to come off the jig. After that it's downhill.
If you use your chevy frame for the gmc sheet metal you will need to change out the front crossmember from the gmc frame. Chris
Now , Don't Get Mad Fellas...... 'Cause to-day I went to a Metropolitan Nash tech session and the guy had a clean unrestored 1938 brand ' F ' TuDoor sedan and they of course asked me to fire it up and pontificate on it's various attributes... I'm not fond of Flatheads in general and V-ate Flathead in particular but this old car was just plain sweet I had to come home and run my '49's fender to make it all right again after that
