The colors are all PPG. The cab, hood, and bed are Light Gray. The code is obscured by paint runs down the side of the can. Whats readable is DB_35_65. The fenders, grill, and running boards are Medium Graphite. DBC36296. Everything rubber was replaced so I don't think I have stuff in the fuel. Fuel filter shows no sign of obstruction. Still unsure of the cause of miss in engine.
I appreciate you painting the internal grill, that was the way the original was done. My truck is Mariner Blue wiht Pulsar gray interior and internal grill. Again, a great JOb!!
Larry, I feel your pain! Here's a few things I thought of that you might check. Some are straight from the '54 shop manual, some are from bad memories! Pull the plugs to see if one or more are fouled out. Check the connectors on your spark plug wires and the wire going to the coil. Dirt in carb? Any leaks in the manifold or carb gaskets? Does the heat riser work freely (Oh sh*t, check that one!! And then check it again!!) Check to see if the muffler is restricted (disconnect the muffler and drive the neighbors crazy for a couple of days). Adjustment of valves? The list goes on. Try some of those and check them off if OK. Did I mention the heat riser?
Didja Try....? Good morning larry ; have you yet replaced the condensor ? when they crap out , this is the exact symptoms . if you have an old one , try it and don't change anything else , see what happens . Or , you can use a pair of pliers to dimple the condensor a bit (crush the can) and that *may* make it work for another week or two . I assume you've allready carried tools and as soon as it begins to buck , you coast to the side of the road and kill the engine , disconnect the fuel pump's )inlet) line and observe the flow of fuel that's supposed to gush out in a stream as big around as the inner diameter of the pipe ~ it should really make a BIG mess , really quickly else there's a siphon problem , usually it'll be crap clogging the fitting in the bottom of the fuel tank . Keep us posted .
So, I have sprayed $3.05/gal gas around the neighbor hood and I have checked everything you fellows have said to check. No no and no it still gets the jumps while going down the road. The latest data is this, with the switch on, engine off the voltage to the base of the resister is 12.4. At the other end it is 9.5, and it is the same at the coil. After a while the coil gets very hot. With the engine running the values are 15.5, 13.5, 13.5 respectivly. I took the cover off the voltage regulator and I don't see them operating. I have a lot of information on 6 volt systems and how to check the 6 voltage regulator but none on a 12 so I do not know how these things should be adjusted. Can anyone help?
Coil Fun Have you disconnected the leads to the coil amd measured the ohms across the two little terminals ? . A hot coil is usually bad , often they get the WRONG coil in there when it gets converted to 12 volts . For this reason I rarely use a ballast resistor unless the truck is set up with a key operated starter -AND- an by - pass citruit . My '49 is a key operated starter (yes , I'm going to fix that one of these days !) and it has NO ballast resistor and startd fine in cold weather....
After fixing the underlaying problem and then replacing coil, points, condenser, rotor, distributer cap, and just to be sure fuel filter Ol Herbert is running like a new truck. The problem was a maladjusted voltage regulater. With the engine running I was getting 16 volts at the battery. Way to much. The fall colors just got brighter.
