WELCOME NEWBIE ! . The good people here know everything you'll ever need to know, I don't think they've ever failed to know what to do on my old '49 3100 . Don't hesitate to ask even minor questions .
Nate, Thank you for the Welcome. Having read through several threads already, I have no doubt there are answers to be had here. This old 53 has been a blast to play with!! To look at my 'before' pics, I get kinda proud of myself. But he runs pretty good now, just need to work on a few things, like turn signals, rear lights (only had the left one) and get the speedo working. Of course the wood bed is on my to-do list. When I start cussing, I just remind myself I am doing this for fun...
You have the correct attitude and that's the single most important thing . Is your truck still 6 volts ? . Did you replace the excellent painted taillight with a chrome or stainless steel one ? . WARNING ! : all my advice is free and worth far less than you pay for it, I was a farm boy, gas station/junkyard/field/used car lot Mechanic so my bent was towards practical repairs that worked, not necessarily show worthy .
Original owner had already converted to 12v. Would’ve liked to meet him, but bought Blu through an estate sale. As for tail lights, there’s still just the one. Have a pair of stainless in my wishlist at CP, along with several other items. We did the reupholstering already, new panels and screws in doors and so much elbow grease to remove oxidation.
For rust removing on vintage Chrome, brass carby parts and miscellaneous ferrous steel parts I use a diluted solution of Phosphoric Acid and water . The taillight lamp can easily be brightened up my cleaning the inside then painting it gloss white (never use silver) . Avoid Muriatic Acid at all costs ! it will damage the parts and can easily blind or kill you .
Nate; Thanks for the tip. Really appreciate all of the knowledge in this forum. Better to learn from others' mistakes, right? Not much original chrome on the 53. From what I read, that was the result of the Korean War going on. The horn button on steering wheel was chromed and terribly rusted. I was able to lift the rust with vinegar/water solution and elbow grease. What do you know about turn signal kits made by United Pacific Industries? Switch claims to be chrome plated, die cast housing. Only one review, but very positive.
Okay ; You just asked a really good and important question because turn signals and brake lights are often combined and it seems few use the turn signals anymore but I digress...... First and foremost : are you going to use the brake lamps as turn signals too ? . Then you'll need a 6 wire typ of switch, there are millions of them out there, most of the new ones are made of Chinesium and guess where ? . Samples, scroll down to see the ones that won't make your stock looking truck look foolish : https://www.amazon.com/s?k=signal+s...ignal+stat,aps,181&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_6_11 I don't know the junkyard / swap meet / auto jumble situation in No. Platte but there should be plenty of these used for dirt cheap, I've never yet had an older American made one not come easily back to life with only cleaning necessary . Some here may have purchased new ones like the world famous Signal-Stat 900 or similar that they can recommend . I have zero knowledge on the Pacific Industries kit(s), add a hyperlink and I'll give it a look . If you only have one taillight as original you're going to have to run at least one new wire from under the dash back to the passenger side lamp you'll need to add for the turn signal . LED's too are a good idea, thinking about your request made me realize I should have been making notes and taking pictures as I really believe in LED bulb upgrades, they're FAR safer and easier on the generator or alternator and God knows I have bagfuls of LED bulbs I've tried and not liked for various reasons . Vinegar, specifically White Vinegar strips off rust like <magic> but, it also allows flash rusting to I prefer to use diluted Phosphoric Acid, lets see if I can add some pictures of a fuse box service I did Tuesday of this week now the taillights are *much* brighter, the turn signals and and even the horn I had been thinking about replacing, toots *perfectly* at idle on a 6 volt generator equipped vehicle . Hm ; it appears I need to to something differently, please wait .
Let's see : 65 year old filthy, grimy and corroded fusebox : Huh ~ I know there's a way to attach images as I've done it before.... There we go ! . After some time soaking and me working it with various brushes and an old rag : Notice please the seven tiny steel screws that were all rusty and dead black, all I did was let them soak a while then clean with a toothbrush over a flat working surface covered by a large light colored rag so every time I dropped one I didn't loose it . I hope this is helpful ? .
Nate; Wow, finished product looks BRAND NEW!! Thanks for the tip and pics. Phosphoric acid & water, good to know. The information on this forum is amazing. 6 wire signal, check. New wire service for right side rear as I do only have the one tail light on left side, check. LED upgrades, already in motion. Have a lead on a local that has several early 50's truck sitting in field behind his place. Told me I am welcome to look for parts. He makes some great whiskey, so could make for great shopping.
Yeah ; I generally prefer the original parts to new repops, most of them are decent quality Chinesium but I have time and I know it'll work as I want when I'm done . Good to hear you're making progress, will you be using a two light or single passenger side taillamp ? . That 'field of dreams' (might be nightmares, watch for hornets & wasps !) sounds very good to me, as a Mechanic I'm usually looking for brake drums, U-Joints, engine parts, stuff that helps keep the rig on the open road where it belongs . Pretty is nice, I don't like walking so reliability is always king to me .
Nate; Nobody wants to make that dreaded phone call for a tow or have to walk home. Reliability is king. For my tail light situation, the one on the truck is functional, but looks cheesy, like it may have come from a Walmart trailer light kit, so I am replacing both with LED assemblies from our host. Here is link to the right side tail light. I like the look. LED T/L Assembly-Stainless-R-Red-Classic Chevy Truck Parts Still early enough here to avoid wasps, etc.. , but I know of what you speak. Experience is a heck of a teacher.
Okay ; It says more photos but only shows one...... 45 LED's is good, it doesn't mention 6 or 12 volt, perhaps it'll work on both . There's a specific bracket you'll need too . You'd be surprised how many ignore safety and reliability to "look cool !" .
Yep, specific bracket, different for each side as left side bracket has lic. plate attachment bracket. Both on the wishlist.
I installed bed roll LEDs and they work great. I realized that for shows etc I'd like to be able to switch them. Couldn't figure out what to do then it occurred to me- run a separate ground from the bed roll LEDs up under the dash. Nice
That's a clever idea . Are you 100 % satisfied with the LED's ? . I put them in my 6 volt VW Bug and when using the turn signals they flicker .
Yes, satisfied. But .... since they draw so little power everything has to be clean and tidy- grounds good etc. But damn they get attention. Even in bright sunlight no question these lights are on. Consider it a safety feature these days ... and of course with the tiny little Advanced Design tail lights size, anything helps .
Just so . Last night I installed L.E.D. H4 head lights in my 6 volt VW Bug, wow are they bright and well focused . They don't look goofy either like many LED headlights do .
Speaking of reliability these LED lights are sealed in epoxy- no fixing or bulb replacements. I like them because they also are impervious to moisture.
