To gain some confidence.. I'd be inclined to put a vacuum gauge on the fuel pump and check to see how much vacuum the pump can pull. Then build the overflow tank, fill it, and use a hand held vacuum pump to see how much vacuum is needed to evacuate the overflow tank. You'd want a length of rubber hose about the same as you'll be using on your truck... and the hose should be held up above the expansion tank, at about the same height as what it would be in the truck. As long as the vacuum to empty the overflow tank is less than the vacuum the fuel pump can generate.. your good to go.
Well, Here are a couple of pictures of the work. The recovery tank is polished stainless steel, and the cab is lined with foil backed insulation, so there's a lot of glare on the pictures.
That should work. My only concern is will the non vented gas cap be liquid tight? If it isn't you may still have gas dripping out since it appears the inlet to the expansion tank is above the gas filler cap.
Picture is crowded... The tap for inlet to recovery tank is in center of the rubber hose in the vent line. This puts it about 4 inches below the bottom of fuel filler inlet. The overflow from recovery tank is about. The same level, so if recovery tank fills up it will still dump on ground instead of on paint.
I need to mention that if anyone wants to do this mod, I'd drill and tap the angle iron that the recovery tank is mounted to. That tank came from Summit. #OER 60781, $32.97. Polished Stainless Steel, 3x16 inches, holds 52oz. Tank has 1/4" tubing inlet and outlets. I worried about it handling the flow, but I gravity flowed through 1/4" fuel line and it filled up in 90 seconds. I found brass fittings to adapt everything at Home Depot, for about $18.
Hey, Bilbo. I don't think you've said whether or not you've had the paint repaired yet. You know how we all like pictures. Steve.
Sadly, I haven't repainted yet. Been waiting for the spill "fix" just completed. Since I paint outside, it may be a bit before I get weather cooperation, and prep work done. I am confident that we've (Lakeroadster and I) have resolved the problem though. Much gratitude to Roadster for his engineering input. I've seen, and heard of others having this same problem, so as time passes and the system inevetably will get tested, I'll follow up with any info that I think is relevant. Also close up "before and after" pics! I should point out, as you zoom in on this photo, you can see several places where paint has flaked off. Additionally, if I rake my nails across that area all the paint will slough off! I've been babying the area to try not to knock off any more paint 'till I jump in to repaint.
I came out of Home Depot on Wednesday and a note was on my windshield... A man named Mike Stanton wanted me to use my truck for his Daughter's wedding. Went this evening to do just that! Pretty cool. (His Daughter made the request!)
Mike Stanton is retired Pitcher from 3 World Series Championships with New York Yankees. Turns out, he lives 3 miles from me. He's currently commentator for pre game for Houston Astros.
Well! At last, I have repaired and repainted the damaged area on my truck cab! Scraped, sanded, primed, and painted! Now... let's see if I can post pictures? .
BTW. I've had a couple of episodes where the recovery tank was utilized, and it seems to have worked as designed! Many Thanks for everyone's input for a working solution to the problem! Special thanks to Lakeroadster for the engineering help! Y'all get out and make these mods to protect your paint! And don't forget to use non vented fuel cap, or seal vent with RTV.
Glad you got it painted back again! Nice job! I guess I am glad I used enamel with a clear coat. The weather has been all over the place, and without a working gas gauge, I fill up often, and often I find brown streaks down the side of the truck. A little wax and rubbing and it’s good as new. Hopefully your paint will stay put this time.
Usually pretty easy to fix, especially if you have a working volt/ohm meter. Do we need to have another "how to" session?
Only if you’re up for the challenge! I’m thinking over Christmas break would be a good time to get out there and do some stuff under the dash again. I really want to get my speedometer working, gas gauge working, and see about hooking up my old blower motor to see if it wants to still work after all that time off. I finally have everything I need to put the wing windows and door glass back in, so the heater will be a “soon after that” kind of project. All your previous help is why my headlights work and that old 228 fires right up! Thanks, Bill!
Always! Stock gauges? 6 volt or 12? Someone else on the forum needs to remind us which side of the gauge attaches to the sending unit wire.
Did a search and found that the sending unit wire should be nearest the "F" on the gauge while the power wire should be nearest the "E" on stock gauges.
Before you power the blower motor, go to Amazon or similar and buy a bottle of " ZOOM SPOUT " ~ this is light machine oil in the cleverest precision oiling container I've ever seen . It's the #1 oil used by those who service / repair electric motors because you can snake the incredibly narrow, 6" long spout in between the squirrel cage wheel or commutator and the body, allowing you to drip in one to three droplets of oil to lubricate the bearing and wet the felt ring at the same time without any mess or overage . Take your time shopping, I was able to find it for $6 delivered . Once you have this, you'll wonder how you ever managed before .
