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Headliners?
- Thread starter Project50
- Start date
Bill Hanlon
Member
I bought an ABS 1 piece headliner from our host. Here is my story that I posted on the OldGMCtrucks web site.
I shot the ABS headliner with the same Rustoleum Hunter Green paint that I had used on my door cards.
After removing the interior sun visors, I used a set of dividers to measure the distance from two known points (a screw in the inner windshield trim and a pin hole I punched into the windlace as it curves down) to all 3 screw holes that hold the left sun visor in place. Did the same for the right visor. These dimensions are needed when it is time to put the visors back on.
Dividers like these:
I used some cardboard flooring protector (about 1/16" thick, comes in a 100' roll) to make a template of the leading edge, over the windshield down the a pillar a bit and then starting back over the doors a few inches.
Start the clock running.
Talked my brother into driving out and giving me a hand. Cut the leading edge of the ABS one piece headliner to match the template, tried fitting just the leading edge and probably had to fit and cut small amounts 8 or 10 times to get the leading edge in place. Removed at most 1/2" from parts of the leading edge to get it to match the inside top of the windshield gasket.
This is definitely a 2 man job. No way I could have held it in place and marked it for cutting.
Then spent a while working on the headliner's "tabs" that run down between the A pillar and the windlace where it goes down from the area over the door and runs towards the windshield's inner trim pieces. Had to remove about 3/4" from the bottom of the tab and narrow it from 2" as it came from the factory to about 1/2".
Measuring where to cut the ABS to get the right length to tuck it under the windlace going over the door was a real PITA. What we ended up doing was I held the headliner in place and my brother Jack traced a line on the back side of the headliner using the bottom edge of the windlace as it passed over and curved down a bit at the door. Then we measured the distance of the "height" of the windlace as it passed over the door at about 1.5" We wanted the headliner to slide it between the windlace and the cab's metal over the door about 1/4", so subtracted that from the 1.5" leaving 1.25". Then we drew a line on the back side of the headliner 1.25" "higher" from the previous line that marked the bottom of the windlace. Then we cut using that higher line. Slipped the side of the ABS under the windlace on both sides. The headliner now would hold itself in place. We had removed over an inch at the center of the doors tapering down to about 1/4" at the front and rear of the doors.
Now we had the front and both sides fitted and turned to fit the rear. Funny thing was it was almost perfect already. We had to remove a strip about 1/4" and a foot long.
Let my brother go home. Time so far is two guys for 3 hours.
Screwed down the over the windshield trim pieces and the back of the cab piece. Some of the screws had to be persuaded a bit, but eventually they all went in.
Made a small templet mimicking the mounting brackets of the visor. Drilled matching holes in the template.
Laid some painter's tape over the general area that the visors bolt to. Using the measurements from the second paragraph from the top of this post taped the visor template in place and drilled through the ABS. Actually hit 4 of 6 holes and was close enough on the other two that I just hogged out the hole in the ABS to match. Used the visor template cut the center hole for the visor's arm in the BAS using a 3/4" hole saw. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T DING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE TRUCK'S CAB ROOF AS THE HOLE SAW CUTS THROUGH THE ABS. Hogged that hole out to full size using a rotary rasp in a drill.
Probably another hour and a half later when I finished.
I'm really happy with the results.
I shot the ABS headliner with the same Rustoleum Hunter Green paint that I had used on my door cards.
After removing the interior sun visors, I used a set of dividers to measure the distance from two known points (a screw in the inner windshield trim and a pin hole I punched into the windlace as it curves down) to all 3 screw holes that hold the left sun visor in place. Did the same for the right visor. These dimensions are needed when it is time to put the visors back on.
Dividers like these:
I used some cardboard flooring protector (about 1/16" thick, comes in a 100' roll) to make a template of the leading edge, over the windshield down the a pillar a bit and then starting back over the doors a few inches.
Start the clock running.
Talked my brother into driving out and giving me a hand. Cut the leading edge of the ABS one piece headliner to match the template, tried fitting just the leading edge and probably had to fit and cut small amounts 8 or 10 times to get the leading edge in place. Removed at most 1/2" from parts of the leading edge to get it to match the inside top of the windshield gasket.
This is definitely a 2 man job. No way I could have held it in place and marked it for cutting.
Then spent a while working on the headliner's "tabs" that run down between the A pillar and the windlace where it goes down from the area over the door and runs towards the windshield's inner trim pieces. Had to remove about 3/4" from the bottom of the tab and narrow it from 2" as it came from the factory to about 1/2".
Measuring where to cut the ABS to get the right length to tuck it under the windlace going over the door was a real PITA. What we ended up doing was I held the headliner in place and my brother Jack traced a line on the back side of the headliner using the bottom edge of the windlace as it passed over and curved down a bit at the door. Then we measured the distance of the "height" of the windlace as it passed over the door at about 1.5" We wanted the headliner to slide it between the windlace and the cab's metal over the door about 1/4", so subtracted that from the 1.5" leaving 1.25". Then we drew a line on the back side of the headliner 1.25" "higher" from the previous line that marked the bottom of the windlace. Then we cut using that higher line. Slipped the side of the ABS under the windlace on both sides. The headliner now would hold itself in place. We had removed over an inch at the center of the doors tapering down to about 1/4" at the front and rear of the doors.
Now we had the front and both sides fitted and turned to fit the rear. Funny thing was it was almost perfect already. We had to remove a strip about 1/4" and a foot long.
Let my brother go home. Time so far is two guys for 3 hours.
Screwed down the over the windshield trim pieces and the back of the cab piece. Some of the screws had to be persuaded a bit, but eventually they all went in.
Made a small templet mimicking the mounting brackets of the visor. Drilled matching holes in the template.
Laid some painter's tape over the general area that the visors bolt to. Using the measurements from the second paragraph from the top of this post taped the visor template in place and drilled through the ABS. Actually hit 4 of 6 holes and was close enough on the other two that I just hogged out the hole in the ABS to match. Used the visor template cut the center hole for the visor's arm in the BAS using a 3/4" hole saw. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T DING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE TRUCK'S CAB ROOF AS THE HOLE SAW CUTS THROUGH THE ABS. Hogged that hole out to full size using a rotary rasp in a drill.
Probably another hour and a half later when I finished.
I'm really happy with the results.
Last edited:
Project50
Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2017
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
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- Age
- 67
Thanks! Looks nice but seems like a lot of work. Does the headliners from LMC and Classic Parts not fit well? Is that why you made your own?I bought an ABS 1 piece headliner from our host. Here is my story that I posted on the OldGMCtrucks web site.
I shot the ABS headliner with the same Rustoleum Hunter Green paint that I had used on my door cards.
After removing the interior sun visors, I used a set of dividers to measure the distance from two known points (a screw in the inner windshield trim and a pin hole I punched into the windlace as it curves down) to all 3 screw holes that hold the left sun visor in place. Did the same for the right visor. These dimensions are needed when it is time to put the visors back on.
Dividers like these:
I used some cardboard flooring protector (about 1/16" thick, comes in a 100' roll) to make a template of the leading edge, over the windshield down the a pillar a bit and then starting back over the doors a few inches.
Start the clock running.
Talked my brother into driving out and giving me a hand. Cut the leading edge of the ABS one piece headliner to match the template, tried fitting just the leading edge and probably had to fit and cut small amounts 8 or 10 times to get the leading edge in place. Removed at most 1/2" from parts of the leading edge to get it to match the inside top of the windshield gasket.
This is definitely a 2 man job. No way I could have held it in place and marked it for cutting.
Then spent a while working on the headliner's "tabs" that run down between the A pillar and the windlace where it goes down from the area over the door and runs towards the windshield's inner trim pieces. Had to remove about 3/4" from the bottom of the tab and narrow it from 2" as it came from the factory to about 1/2".
Measuring where to cut the ABS to get the right length to tuck it under the windlace going over the door was a real PITA. What we ended up doing was I held the headliner in place and my brother Jack traced a line on the back side of the headliner using the bottom edge of the windlace as it passed over and curved down a bit at the door. Then we measured the distance of the "height" of the windlace as it passed over the door at about 1.5" We wanted the headliner to slide it between the windlace and the cab's metal over the door about 1/4", so subtracted that from the 1.5" leaving 1.25". Then we drew a line on the back side of the headliner 1.25" "higher" from the previous line that marked the bottom of the windlace. Then we cut using that higher line. Slipped the side of the ABS under the windlace on both sides. The headliner now would hold itself in place. We had removed over an inch at the center of the doors tapering down to about 1/4" at the front and rear of the doors.
Now we had the front and both sides fitted and turned to fit the rear. Funny thing was it was almost perfect already. We had to remove a strip about 1/4" and a foot long.
Let my brother go home. Time so far is two guys for 3 hours.
Screwed down the over the windshield trim pieces and the back of the cab piece. Some of the screws had to be persuaded a bit, but eventually they all went in.
Made a small templet mimicking the mounting brackets of the visor. Drilled matching holes in the template.
Laid some painter's tape over the general area that the visors bolt to. Using the measurements from the second paragraph from the top of this post taped the visor template in place and drilled through the ABS. Actually hit 4 of 6 holes and was close enough on the other two that I just hogged out the hole in the ABS to match. Used the visor template cut the center hole for the visor's arm in the BAS using a 3/4" hole saw. BE CAREFUL THAT YOU DON'T DING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE TRUCK'S CAB ROOF AS THE HOLE SAW CUTS THROUGH THE ABS. Hogged that hole out to full size using a rotary rasp in a drill.
Probably another hour and a half later when I finished.
I'm really happy with the results.
Bill Hanlon
Member
I didn't make my own. I bought this one from Classic Parts.
* Headliner - 1 Piece Plastic-Classic Chevy Truck Parts
As it says in the ad, ** MAY HAVE TO TRIM SLIGHTLY DEPENDING ON YEAR **
Project50
Member
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2017
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 0
- Age
- 67
Seems as if you had to do a lot of modifying to the one you bought then.
Bill Hanlon
Member
yup
RidesWithYah
Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2011
- Messages
- 313
- Reaction score
- 29
- Location
- Lexington KY
- Website
- home.windstream.net
Check out White Wolf Speed Shop on Facebook, I haven't used them but have heard good things about their headliners.
White Wolf Speed Shop
February 16, 2018 ·
ABS Interior Headliner / Door / Kick Panels!
PLEASE READ PRICE CHANGE NOTE AT BOTTOM OF THIS POST!!!
Abs roof panel kits for Chevrolet truck 47-Early 49 cabs, Late 49-53 cabs and 54-Early 55 cabs. Full length and standard half height door panel kits also available along with kick panels.
These Abs panels replace the stock paper ones that can cause issues. ABS panels are laser cut and made from 1/16" (0.060") black abs that has a haircell finish to the exposed side. Roof and door panels are made to work with the stock edge trims, retainer trims, weather stripping and fasteners in our trucks.
The thin Abs material will allow easy installation of thinner covering fabrics and still allow the panels to fit in the stock metal trims. The panels can also be left exposed black if you so choose. Thicker fabric applications might require changes to your trims.
Refer to my post about knowing your cab to ensure you identify your cab correctly. I have seen people who have a mix match vin tag and cab.
The roof panels are two (2) piece and have NO visor holes drilled. I only scribe the hole locations on the back of the panel for the DRIVER side for the owner to drill out as required. The reason for this is because for some reason many passenger sun visors are not in the exact opposite mirrored position as the drivers. I do not know why that is but it risky for me to cut it and assume it will fit.
Disclaimer!!! These roof panels have been test fitted in a few different cabs myself. I took the time to properly contour the panels and ensure the panels are built 100% symmetrical and still allow for a proper fit. I take NO responsibility for minor variances fitment with your truck.
Door panels sets also available!!!!! Made from same material and pre cut for mounting hardware and cranks. The panels have been revised slightly to fit the doors properly and profiled better to fit better in the SS trims. No arm rest holes are cut but I do scribe them on the backs for the owner to drill out if required. Full height door panels are also made as a option for people looking to use something as a upholstery backing that will not rot or warp in humid locations. Full size panels only have the outer perimeter mounting holes drilled along the top half of the panel, owner is responsible for the other hole locations depending on their mounting requirements.
Kick panels sets also available!!!!! Made from same material. Very minor trimming will be required to suit final installation due to cab minor variances. No hardware required as they simply fit from floor to u/s of dash and also tuck behind the door weather-stripping.
Asking 122 in US funds for a headliner kit with shipping extra. No mounting hardware or trims are included.
Asking 53 in US funds for STANDARD door panel kit with shipping extra. No mounting hardware or trims are included.
Asking 72 in US funds for FULL HEIGHT door panel kit with shipping extra. No mounting hardware or trims are included.
Asking 42 in US funds for n kick panel kit with shipping extra.
PACKAGE DEAL #1 Buy headliner and STANDARD door panels together and cost is 165 in US funds with shipping extra.
PACKAGE DEAL #2 !!! Buy the headliner , STANDARD door panels and kick panels together and cost is 199 in US funds with shipping extra.
If you require FULL HEIGHT door panels for any of the above packages add 30 (to be revised) dollars to the above noted price.
Items will be shipped rolled up and will require the owner to allow the panels to relax in a warm area after receiving. These are made and shipped from Canada. This contributes to the slightly above average shipping costs. Shipping for the PACKAGE DEAL #1 and #2 averages between 28-35 US funds. Door panels or headliners shipped alone average about 20-25 US funds.
If interested please PM me with the year of your cab, what package you want, a interior picture so I can ensure you get the correct package. I will also require a full shipping address with your email so I can send the PayPal invoice request.
UPDATE !!!!!!! As mentioned in one of my last posts prices on new batches will be adjusted to reflect the higher material and consumable cost that I am now faced with.
White Wolf Speed Shop
February 16, 2018 ·
ABS Interior Headliner / Door / Kick Panels!
PLEASE READ PRICE CHANGE NOTE AT BOTTOM OF THIS POST!!!
Abs roof panel kits for Chevrolet truck 47-Early 49 cabs, Late 49-53 cabs and 54-Early 55 cabs. Full length and standard half height door panel kits also available along with kick panels.
These Abs panels replace the stock paper ones that can cause issues. ABS panels are laser cut and made from 1/16" (0.060") black abs that has a haircell finish to the exposed side. Roof and door panels are made to work with the stock edge trims, retainer trims, weather stripping and fasteners in our trucks.
The thin Abs material will allow easy installation of thinner covering fabrics and still allow the panels to fit in the stock metal trims. The panels can also be left exposed black if you so choose. Thicker fabric applications might require changes to your trims.
Refer to my post about knowing your cab to ensure you identify your cab correctly. I have seen people who have a mix match vin tag and cab.
The roof panels are two (2) piece and have NO visor holes drilled. I only scribe the hole locations on the back of the panel for the DRIVER side for the owner to drill out as required. The reason for this is because for some reason many passenger sun visors are not in the exact opposite mirrored position as the drivers. I do not know why that is but it risky for me to cut it and assume it will fit.
Disclaimer!!! These roof panels have been test fitted in a few different cabs myself. I took the time to properly contour the panels and ensure the panels are built 100% symmetrical and still allow for a proper fit. I take NO responsibility for minor variances fitment with your truck.
Door panels sets also available!!!!! Made from same material and pre cut for mounting hardware and cranks. The panels have been revised slightly to fit the doors properly and profiled better to fit better in the SS trims. No arm rest holes are cut but I do scribe them on the backs for the owner to drill out if required. Full height door panels are also made as a option for people looking to use something as a upholstery backing that will not rot or warp in humid locations. Full size panels only have the outer perimeter mounting holes drilled along the top half of the panel, owner is responsible for the other hole locations depending on their mounting requirements.
Kick panels sets also available!!!!! Made from same material. Very minor trimming will be required to suit final installation due to cab minor variances. No hardware required as they simply fit from floor to u/s of dash and also tuck behind the door weather-stripping.
Asking 122 in US funds for a headliner kit with shipping extra. No mounting hardware or trims are included.
Asking 53 in US funds for STANDARD door panel kit with shipping extra. No mounting hardware or trims are included.
Asking 72 in US funds for FULL HEIGHT door panel kit with shipping extra. No mounting hardware or trims are included.
Asking 42 in US funds for n kick panel kit with shipping extra.
PACKAGE DEAL #1 Buy headliner and STANDARD door panels together and cost is 165 in US funds with shipping extra.
PACKAGE DEAL #2 !!! Buy the headliner , STANDARD door panels and kick panels together and cost is 199 in US funds with shipping extra.
If you require FULL HEIGHT door panels for any of the above packages add 30 (to be revised) dollars to the above noted price.
Items will be shipped rolled up and will require the owner to allow the panels to relax in a warm area after receiving. These are made and shipped from Canada. This contributes to the slightly above average shipping costs. Shipping for the PACKAGE DEAL #1 and #2 averages between 28-35 US funds. Door panels or headliners shipped alone average about 20-25 US funds.
If interested please PM me with the year of your cab, what package you want, a interior picture so I can ensure you get the correct package. I will also require a full shipping address with your email so I can send the PayPal invoice request.
UPDATE !!!!!!! As mentioned in one of my last posts prices on new batches will be adjusted to reflect the higher material and consumable cost that I am now faced with.
cantdrivemall
Member
Does this White Wolf guy make his products HIMSELF, so he can back up his claims?
Anyone can scribble out an idea, along with some measurements,
and by the time it reaches PingPong China, and the pieces get back here, you’ve ended up with a shitruckload of unusable “made to fit” junk that doesn’t work.
And the sellers usual reply, “Gee, that’s the first we’ve heard of that problem.” B. S.
You all know it’s true........
Rant over
Anyone can scribble out an idea, along with some measurements,
and by the time it reaches PingPong China, and the pieces get back here, you’ve ended up with a shitruckload of unusable “made to fit” junk that doesn’t work.
And the sellers usual reply, “Gee, that’s the first we’ve heard of that problem.” B. S.
You all know it’s true........
Rant over
RidesWithYah
Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2011
- Messages
- 313
- Reaction score
- 29
- Location
- Lexington KY
- Website
- home.windstream.net
Yes, he does. Contact him directly (Scotty Wolff) on Facebook.
He's usually pretty quick to reply to messages.
EDIT: He now has a website: www.whitewolfspeedshop.com
Last edited: