Hi Nate, greetings from cold Germany. You said 10% of oil are filtered?. Do you know a way to improve this?. I think about to find a new way for a external filter system. My idea is a electrical oil pump between in and out of the original oil filter. It is possible? or is the quantity of oil at this point to little. Another idea. I drill 2 holes in the oil pan (in and out) mount a electrical oil pump and a filter and clean the oil. Volker
Full Pressure Oil Filter Sorry Volker ~ you have to do as Bruce mentioned and drill into the oil gallerys and tap them . It's all detailed , uh I forget where but I'm sure Bruce will know... There's no reason a by-pass oil filtered engine won't last 100,000 miles . Just take care of it , keep it sharply tuned and always do regular hot oil & filter changes .
Anytime a barbed fitting has a plastic washer (yours are yellow) then it is a push on fit that requires no clamp. I have used them on fuel lines with 60 psi without problem. If you save them do not cut the hose lengthwise down the barbed fitting as this gives a scratch or groove for a potential leak. Cut the hose just at the end of the fitting and then abrade through it with the wire brush on a bench grinder. Any scratches will be parrallel to the barbs and not a source for leaks.
Thanx Evan ! We have those leyyow barbed fittings in the shop , I didn"t know why as I always use clamps... I asked and no one knew why the yellow plastic band .
Nate i agree with almost all oil filters in use.Not the oil filter stock on our motors.They do not even filter 10%. It is more like a oil leak after the oil filter is wet (not even 1% i bet). If you take stock fitting off and put a aftermarket filter on most times you will see a pressure drop and than it will go back up after the filter gets wet(the filter was and after thought not a fix)The reason for that? no oil going thru the filter . Bigger lines are real bad as in aftermarket as that port was only made for and oil pressure gauge not a full blown oil leak that just dumps oil back in to the pan. Not a good deal as it does cause problems. Just for a test so you can see for yourself pull the lower line off at the block after the truck has 500-1000 miles on it....not much oil at all is coming out. If you do go after market with big fittings it is like a oil leak to the bearings. I only figured this out after building a few of these and that was by accident as i was looking for a port to plumb the turbo charger too. The best thing you can do with these motors is get a newer valve cover with out the openings and put a PVC on it and ditch the road draft tube(were i put the PVC in the block. Stops more dirt/water from getting in than the filter could ever get ride of. If anybody is getting ready too build a motor i think i can scare up the pixs on how to do a modern filter that will work very well. It just wont look factory. Takes about 1 hour and a hand full of hand tools......pretty easy. You know i drive my motors a lot of miles nate. I get way over 200,000 on bearing now. Before i had a set in the glove box LOL 75k is all the rods would go maybe 80k to 100 on lower mains.
Mine does look just like that! LOL same color same a/c pump and alt placement. Only thing diff it has a 4412 holley carb......Well it dont run a stock filter anymore .A/C was the best 25 bucks i ever spent on that truck
